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Blades for dry Walnut

Started by WH_Conley, March 24, 2015, 07:35:10 PM

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WH_Conley

I have been sawing off and on for a few months now for a Chinese company. They came into our part of the country and bought all the small Walnut around. A pain to saw but the money is good. Some of it had laid on the log yard lots for 2-3 years. The dust and dirt are so bad that sometimes when the sun hits right you can see sparkles like shattered glass. Silica from sand is my guess. Most of the bark is gone and some are so hard you think you are sawing Hickory. I have been running Wood Mizer 10 degree blades. Using 2-3 times as many blades as I usually do. Any suggestions?
Bill

customsawyer

Go to 4° and turn the water off. You will still use more blades but the 4° are more forgiving.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
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Larry

The Misouri River flooded in '93 and a big whack of walnut on a landing was submerged in flood waters for most of a year.  Some of the walnut was big and veneer quality.  Took the lawyers about 5 years to figure out who owned what.  I got the call to saw them up after they finished, but they weren't worth much by that time.

Any blade with a seven degree hook or less worked ok.  All of the bands dulled fast because of the sand  in the cracks but less hook always retains a sharp tip longer.  I sharpened my own and kept them right at 4 degrees.  While the logs laid in the bottoms the shooters used them as a backstop for target shooting.  Some of the bullet jackets would stop a band right now.

I really like sawing walnut and sold a lot of small stuff that came out when I did TSI on my woodlot.  Some went to Missouri Walnut which was Chinese.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

taylorsmissbeehaven

I have never tried any 4* but probably should. I had a good experience cutting some small dry walnut with wm 7*. My 10* didn't last long, but the sevens hung in there. Best of luck Brian
Opportunity is missed by most because it shows up wearing bib overalls and looks like work.

AnthonyW

Quote from: taylorsmissbeehaven on March 25, 2015, 12:28:51 PM
I have never tried any 4* but probably should. I had a good experience cutting some small dry walnut with wm 7*. My 10* didn't last long, but the sevens hung in there. Best of luck Brian

I have only cut a LOT of eastern white pine and some red oak. That has also been my experience, the 10* didn't last as long as the 7*. I think much of it has to do with operator technique combined engine HP and the aggressive bite of the blade. I believe with my technique and lower HP (15HP Kohler) results in abusing the 10* teeth. I found the 10* blades to be very touchy on feed rate when trying to maintain a steady engine RPM (and by extension blade FPM). I think the 7* blades were more forgiving and/or a better match for my technique and engine HP. I noticed the difference immediately when I switched from the 10* to the 7* for the first time. Better (more steady) engine RPM, more steady (and faster) feed rate and thereby a higher board per minute rate, and in the long haul the feed rate was maintained higher for a longer time (increased blade life).

I think the moral of the story for blade selection is to ask for opinions, check the manufacturer's website for their thoughts, start there, and then select the blade that works best for you.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

21incher

Make sure you wear a good respirator. Walnut sawdust can cause serious lung issues. :)
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Brad_bb

Been sawing dry reclaim for the last 6 weeks using woodmizer 7 degree double hard.  Works well in my opinion, but if you've got dirt/sand it's going to dull your blades faster.  Would it pay to do some pressure washing first? 
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

beenthere

Can't hurt, but will be messy.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

WH_Conley

Have some 4's on the way. Thanks for the replies.
Bill

hunz

Quote from: WH_Conley on March 26, 2015, 07:23:44 AM
Have some 4's on the way. Thanks for the replies.

My only advice would have not to relied upon 9* blades, but looks looks like you've got it handled. Sawed some dry large walnut last week, very small slight waves with the 9s
Dream as if you'll saw forever; saw as if you'll die today.



2006 Woodmizer LT40D51RA, Husqvarna 372xp, Takeuchi TL140

WH_Conley

I can't believe the difference in the 4's. Faster feed rate and about twice the production per blade. Thanks guys. Haven't had a chance to try them in anything else. I saw a lot of Poplar, Oak some Ash and Hickory. How do they perform on these woods?
Bill

Dave Shepard

I think you will like them in ash and hickory. Oak and tulip I've always used 10°.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

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