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Standing seam roofing

Started by Qweaver, March 14, 2015, 03:54:14 PM

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Qweaver

I've decided to change out my screw down metal roof for standing seam.  I'm seeing some small leaks on the porches and that worries me.  Standing seam is nearly twice the cost of screw down.  I don't know why.  Any suggestions on a brand and dealer?  I have some sheds to build on my camp so the metal coming off has a use and that makes the cost less. I'm going to deck with 5/8 ply (maybe 3/4") for the SS.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Holmes

 A new woodworking shop [48'x48'] I was working on had a screw down metal roof installed. 50% of the screws leaked. When the screw entered the metal a small pig tail shape of metal would lodge under the gasket and leak. They had to change ALL of the screws and remove the burr.
Think like a farmer.

Qweaver

I have roofed several large sheds with metal and NONE of them have leaked.  Not so with my cabin.  ::)
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

jwilly3879

For screw down roofing I have always predrilled the holes with a double ended 1/8" bit. It prevents the burr under the gasket and without drilling the screw generates quite a bit of heat which can damage the paint and the galvanizing causing rust.

I have repaired several screw down roofs where the screws were too long and penetrated the sheathing then condensation would collect on the protruding screw, wick into the sheathing causing rot which loosened up the screw, then a big leak. I have actually seen icicles hanging from the screws.

Over-tightening the screws will tear the gasket causing leaks.   

Bruno of NH

I have good luck with the Fabral brand .
Jim/Bruno
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

21incher

When they did the addition on my pole barn the contractor used a new type of self drilling screw. Up by the washer there is about 1/4 inch of fine threads that go in the opposite direction which push the burr down and allow the screw to push down the metal before compressing the seal. The company that supplied the screws flew in a crew to videotape the metal installation because it was a new product they were field testing and they seemed to seal great. I don't know where to buy them, but they should be available by now.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

John Mc

Stay away from the lighter guage stuff. 26 ga. is just too darn thin to hold up.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

thechknhwk

I got mine from a company called metal sales (http://www.metalsales.us.com/) and it looks really good so far, it's currently getting installed.

Glenn1

2X for metalsales.us.com

I have recently used their product for both sides and roofing on my kiln.  So far, so good
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rambrush

We used http://bridgersteel.com/ which unfortunately is out of Montana. Not sure if they would ship or not.
Placed our order and a guy with truck and trailer showed up on our job site. He had a roll former and rolls of metal on board. I gave him the sizes I required. He cut and stacked them for us as well. We were able to rent the seamer from them of course and after mounting panels ran it up and down.
No leaks as all fasteners are hidden away under the seam.

So maybe there is a outfit similar closer to you.

69bronco

x3 for Metal Sales, they used to provide the crimper to roll the seam when you bought the steel from them.

snowstorm

the steel roof on my garage didnt leak for the first 10 yrs. after that a heavy rain it would. replaced all the screws with longer ones didnt help then to a larger dia that helped a lot

John Mc

Quote from: snowstorm on March 16, 2015, 07:50:20 PM
the steel roof on my garage didnt leak for the first 10 yrs. after that a heavy rain it would. replaced all the screws with longer ones didnt help then to a larger dia that helped a lot

That must not have been a standing seam roof, since the fasteners are not acessible once the roof is installed.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

snowstorm


thechknhwk

Quote from: 69bronco on March 16, 2015, 11:54:45 AM
x3 for Metal Sales, they used to provide the crimper to roll the seam when you bought the steel from them.

They provide it for $130 bucks :D

ScottAR

$130 isn't a bad deal when you price one new.  $3k when I looked.  There's also a snap together style that doesn't use a crimper.  I've only been around it once but it was some cheaper and I've heard of no problems on that install 2 years in. 
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

Josef

Hi Qweaver,

Standing seam roofing has been around for a long time, the newer snaplock systems are great and can easily be installed without seaming the sheets together, making it much better if a later repair is necessary (say due to a tree falling on it).

24 ga is pretty much standard for SS roofing, but 26 ga is marketed to homeowners installing over plywood roof decks. Both work well. Trim installation is a bit different, ridge caps usually need solid closures (metal) to fill the panel profile and allow a flat surface for attaching the ridge cap, the rakes can be made with the rib profile and seamed in to make a clean appearance and are attached at the fascia with cleats.

The roof overhang can be done with cleats as well and eliminate all surface panel fasteners. Keep in mind that a SS roof is not attached "hard" to the sub structure, it is designed to be attached with sliding clips that allow the roof to expand and contract into the ridge configuration. The snaplock panels have elongated fastener slots that allow the panel to move, don't secure them hard or it will distort the panel when it expands just like vynl siding.

It makes a great, long lasting roof system, and the beauty of the system is in that it does not have surface fasteners and consequently does not have the penetrations that can leak later when fasteners loosen. It also is about twice the cost of a screw down panel system.

I sent you a pm about suppliers in your area if you're interested.
In my house I'm the boss, I know this because my wife said so, I only hope she doesn't change her mind!

New to me Timber Harvester that I'm learning to operate, been building a home built mill for a while, should be ready to make sawdust with it someday if I ever quit "modifying" the design.

thechknhwk

Perhaps we are not talking about the same tool.  I didn't see it, but the roofers asked if they could keep it since they did me right installing the roof.  I don't even know where the "hemming" takes place on the metal.  I need to try to remember to ask when they come back on wednesday.

A couple snaps of the roof




Saga Dan

Qweaver,

Are you planning on hiring someone to install the new standing seam roofing or would you plan to install yourself?

There are several factors that come into play with the installation of the the different types of roofing standing seam vs. exposed corrugated metal.  There are more steps involved as pointed out by a few of the other posters with standing seam.  The hidden fasteners are just one of the many advantages of going with this type of roofing system.  The added trims and flashings are also important to the overall integrity of the roof.  Unlike the corrugated exposed panel roofing systems standing seam roofing does take a bit more expertise and knowledge to install.  I am not trying to scare you away from installing a standing seam roof but I would caution you to find someone that has some experience with their installation.  Metal roofing is not all the same.  Just because you can buy it at a big box store and watch some online videos does not make an "installer" an expert.

So to conclude my rambling post.  I spent 10 years as an estimator and project manager for a roofing company specializing in commercial roofing and architectural sheet metal.  Please let me know if have any specific questions that I might be able to help you with or point you in the right direction.

Dan
2014 LT40 Manual; XP346; XP395; Logosol M8

John Mc

I've heard that the crimped together SS roofing holds up better than the snap together stuff, but have no personal experience with it (besides, it sounds as though there are those on here with a lot more knowledge of it than I have).

I second the recommendation to make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing. The guys who did my house did not, and we've suffered the consequences.

Very important to make sure the installer follows the recommended fastener schedule - both for type of fastener and spacing between fasteners (this can vary based on wind and snow loads in your area, as well a where on the roof you are... edges tend to need closer fastener spacing).

If you think you'll need to install snow or ice guards on the roof, or may be contemplating installing solar panels some day, stay away from the 26 ga material. I've seen it rip like paper in high winds. Of course, if high winds aren't an issue in your area maybe the lighter gauge stuff it will work out OK.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Qweaver

I have plenty of steel roofing area on the man cave and two garages to provide plenty of drinking water and I may separate washing, flushing and bathing water from fully filtered and treated water that goes to sinks.  I have four separate water tanks which would make this easy to do.  I could then shingle the main house roof and not even use it for  rainwater harvest.  I'm going to calculate the costs and see if that makes sense.   I am just getting outrageous quotes for putting a standing seam roof on.  I have some good local workers that I can hire and handle the re-roofing job myself at half the price of what I'm being quoted.  Everyone has to make a profit but this is ridicules.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

ScottAR

http://www.esemachines.com/index.htm    The machine I was thinking about is called a power seamer.
The roofer just called it a crimper.  Here is the homepage of one company. 

I wanna say we got 3500 square foot building with a hip roof done for about 9k in materials and about 3,500
labor.  This was the snap together type over wood decking. 
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

Tom King

I have the snap together ss on my house.  It looks to me like all the different manufacturers buy the rolls of metal from the same supplier, and even have the same colors.  I guess it depends on how well the roll former is set up that run.

Check out the roofing page on my website for a house I folded together the standing seams on a copper roof 22 years ago.  It's just now starting to turn green ever so slightly.  It still looks good, and should have another 600 years or so of life left.

We've fixed a bunch of screw down metal roofs the past ten years.

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