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how much can you saw

Started by sandsawmill14, February 28, 2015, 07:19:38 PM

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sandsawmill14

wondering what the different mills average production is day in day out not the company numbers. Thinking about buying a higher production mill what do yall think?
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

GAB

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on February 28, 2015, 07:19:38 PM
wondering what the different mills average production is day in day out not the company numbers. Thinking about buying a higher production mill what do yall think?
There are so many variables involved in trying to answer your question such as log sizes, length, hard or soft wood, outside temperature, sawing 1 by's or 12" x 12", quality and quantity of help, machinery available, etc, etc, etc, that I will give you an answer of from 1 to 4000bdft/day.  Pick whatever you like in that range.
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

sandsawmill14

ok let me rephrase the question what would be the next step up from timberking b 20 for production verses cost?                              ; since december 1 i have sawn 62,650 bdft shut down 2 weeks for christmas 2 more weeks for weather and lost 1 week due to sickness in family so 7 weeks sawing  62,650/7=8950 bdft per week =1790 per day= 9hr day=198 bdft per hr sawing everything from 1"cypress siding to 7x9 rr ties thats why i average it.This includes chainsaw time to split logs when needed and all other non sawing work that goes with milling.   Hope this helps clear it up. ;)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

drobertson

this has been discussed many times over varying threads, this is the latest to my recollection,
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,81538.0.html
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

sandsawmill14

thanks for the link it was a good read smiley_thumbsup
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

ladylake

To do better than a B20 your going to need a higher HP diesel and wider blades as the B20 handles logs really good..  After log handling it about HP and support equipment. I can do from 100bf on small crooked logs by myself  to well over 400bf with good logs and good help.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

sandsawmill14

thanks Steve  thats the kinda info i was looking for. I have so many logs right now i dont know what to do  i may just look for another b 20 then at least there wont be the learning curve before it goes to work. You are right about the log handling the only thing i can see to make it any better would be a 2nd log turner to help with the swelled butts and odd shaped logs
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Ga Mtn Man

I know where you can buy a "lightly used" TK 2000. ;D
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

sandsawmill14

does it have any problems? ??? :D
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

ladylake

 If you have a lot of logs that won't fit  the B20 you might want to consider a Tk2000 or 2200 or similar mill, my brothers TK 2000 can handle some big ones with 37" between the post and 16" above the blade plus 32" between the guide rollers.  The new TK 2000 mills  will also have 36" between the blade and deck so no heavy slabs on the big logs.  It sounds like your doing a lot of sawing, if you get a different mill get a diesel as it pay for itself in fuel savings in around 3000 hours.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

sandsawmill14

I normally dont have alot of over sized logs this one job the loggers where on did though so the last couple months have been rough  but likely be a year or more before another job has that many big logs. im thinking about going to electric but dont know for sure yet. If i dont will likey go to diesel when i have to change engines
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

ladylake

 
I only get a couple a year that won't fit my B20 but I can use my brothers TK2000 (which works great after taking care of 2 problems that took around 2 hours and setting the guide rollers to Cooks specs) for those or chainsaw some.  I hate those big logs even if they fit.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

sandsawmill14

yep those big ones are a pain.  do you resharpen your own blades?
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

ladylake

 
Yes I sharpen my blades, thousands by now.  I sharpen at 4° which cuts better in the big white oak I cut a lot.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

sandsawmill14

Steve do you reset them with every sharpening? we have a cooks sharpener but arent having very good luck with it we dont have a setter but even blades sharpened only 1 time dont run very good. I dont know where to order a setter or sell sharpener. ::)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

Tom the Sawyer

You've got an excellent sharpener, you need to get a good setter.  If you aren't setting your blades, performance will go downhill, no matter how sharp they are.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

Darrel

Chainsaw work cutting logs to size is a slow tedious process. I know nothing about The b 20, but if you could find something that cuts bigger logs it may be worth your while. 
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

ladylake

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on March 01, 2015, 03:59:48 PM
Steve do you reset them with every sharpening? we have a cooks sharpener but arent having very good luck with it we dont have a setter but even blades sharpened only 1 time dont run very good. I dont know where to order a setter or sell sharpener. ::)

I never set on the first sharpening, most times every 2nd sharpening and my sharpened blades cut better than new as I sharpen at 4° and my new blades come at 10°.  I run my new blades on easy too saw wood..  Can you get some pics up of your sharpened blades, they sure should cut good.. What kind of wood are you cutting.   steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

sandsawmill14

i will try to get some pics later tonight  i saw everything last week was white oak week before was gum/ mixed wood ,this week will either be gum or poplar we get enough logs that we saw it by species so i dont have so many stacks to sort.  the ones we sharpen run good in the soft woods but wont cut any of the harder wood
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

sandsawmill14

ladylake  the first pic is a new one

  
and this is the resharp

 
i dont know if these pics are good enough to see or not
also when we do get a resharp to run it cuts better than new but always break sometimes after 4 or 5 cuts  some after 300-400 bdft  but almost always break those picks are of simmonds red streak.  They cost a little more but lasted a lot better than the cooks supersharps or the munks i tried. What blade do you run?  ???


Darrel  normally log size is not a problem, its just this job the loggers moved to after the first of the year had alot of big timber. so the last couple of months been tough usually only get 4 or 5 a week that are over 32-34" dia  but i've had 30- 40 that were 40+ and they brought a huge poplar in i havent seen the butt yet but the small end of 2nd cut is 34" at least i hope thats the 2nd cut :o  i'll try to get a pic tomorrow

hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

sandsawmill14

Just for the record I am very happy with our b20 timberking. 8) 8) I am considering a 2nd mill not a replacement. just was wondering what other sawyers were getting with different mills because if your sawing 40+ hrs a week 40+ weeks a year the most likely your logs/orders will vary enough that it would average out about the same for 
at least 2/3 of us in the business.  thanks for everyones thoughts and keep em comming smiley_thumbsup
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

YellowHammer

I've got a Cooks sharpener, and there is a learning curve, but it does an excellent job.  Setting is critical though, I've tried to saw with bands that weren't set correctly, and it didn't work. 

I make it a habit to set every sharpening.  I recommend you get or build a setter.  There are some good topics on the subject.  As Lady Lake says, a well re-sharpened band will cut better than a new one. 

Here's a magnified close up of one of my bands from the Cooks sharpener
This tooth was not correctly sharpened, the tip edges are a little dull and there is a little black on the tooth and gullet.  This one needs another pass or two.


Here's a picture of a tooth that looks good.  Sharp, clean corners, shaped like a chisel. This one will cut like a champ, as long as its set correctly.

YH

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

sandsawmill14

thanks  those are some really good pics i will have to try again tomorrow and see if i can get some better pics.  any idea why the blades are breaking?  what speed% do you run the sharpener at while sharpening? :P
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

YellowHammer

I like speed setting 4, it gives a good grind and doesn't burn teeth.  It's important not to grind too deep or you'll harden and crack in the gullet.  When first getting the hang of it, only drop 1/16 to 1/8 rotation of the height nut, and just barely, I mean just barely, graze the tooth face.  These are light passes, but lighter works good, just takes more passes. Later, you can be more aggressive.
Also, don't make adjustments mid cycle, make an adjustment and let it cycle all the way back around to make another.  Since this is a pin in the gullet type of advance, if the tooth to tooth spacing  or gullets are different shape or depth, the the advance will be off.  When in doubt, make a cleaning or polishing cut, to get everything back uniform.
Get an opti scope at your local drug store, about $20, it's what I used to take these pictures, and it is extremely helpful inspecting teeth occasionally.
You can kind of eyeball set, look down on the band and the teeth should be sticking halfway to a third of the way out from the side of the band. 
You can sharpen the band razor sharp, but if it doesn't have consistent or proper set, it won't cut worth a darn and will wave like crazy.
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

ladylake

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on March 02, 2015, 10:42:19 PM
thanks  those are some really good pics i will have to try again tomorrow and see if i can get some better pics.  any idea why the blades are breaking?  what speed% do you run the sharpener at while sharpening? :P

  The 2 biggest blade breakers are worn v belts too where the band touches the wheel and running the back flange too close to the back on the blade. Set the back flange 1/4" back as Cooks recommends, I do with excellent results.  Also running blades too dull will push the blade against the flange hard and cause broken blades.  After making adjustment try running some new blades as the ones you ran already will be damaged.
  I run Simonds Red Streak about 98% of the time and have tried out different brands but always end up with Simonds.  No company is perfect as one time I got a bad box where every one broke after the first sharpening, I then switched from Simonds 7/8  to Simonds 3/4 to get away from that batch and they lasted like normal with no adjustment to the mill.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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