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Husky 359 cold blooded

Started by ZR900, February 25, 2015, 06:37:58 PM

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ZR900

I bought a used 359 at a pawn shop yesterday. It's in great shape. Lots of compression. Idles fine. Real cold blooded. I turned the hi speed out to the stop. It's better. I put sea foam in the gas today. Maybe that'll clean it out. I have a 261 I bought off eBay. It wouldn't run at all until I adjusted the jets.

On this 359......is it possible to easily open the hi speed beyond the plastic stop? Is that likely to help?

Thx

ladylake


Try turning out the low adjuster about 1/4 turn.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

weimedog

and check the intake boot & impulse line
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

Al_Smith

Quote from: ZR900 on February 25, 2015, 06:37:58 PM
On this 359......is it possible to easily open the hi speed beyond the plastic stop? Is that likely to help?

Thx
I'm not familiar with the saw but I've never seen an adjustable carb with stops I couldn't defeat .It's kind of an EPA so it can't run too rich and also a warrenty thing so it can't be ran too lean and burn the engine up .

Old trick that works sometime is open up the jets and run it until it clears out the residue of old fuel then lean it back up until it runs correctly .Then too it might just need a new set of diaphragms/gaskets .Next to impossible to trouble shoot over the internet . ;D

ladylake

 Most times opening the low adjuster will cure a saw being cold blooded plus it will start better cold, unless the high is real lean or the carb clogged.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ZR900

It idles fine. It kills when you throttle it to start cutting unless you "catch" it. Once it's up to RPM it'll keep running however if you let it back to idle you have to feather the throttle to get it to go to higher RPM. It acts like it's always cold.

ZR900

It acts like it needs a touch more gas at higher RPM

ladylake

 It needs more gas to get from low RPM to high RPM and that comes from the low adjuster, give it a try.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

John Mc

Quote from: ZR900 on February 26, 2015, 07:40:50 AM
It idles fine. It kills when you throttle it to start cutting unless you "catch" it. Once it's up to RPM it'll keep running however if you let it back to idle you have to feather the throttle to get it to go to higher RPM. It acts like it's always cold.

As Steve said, that's a classic symptom of the low speed mixture being set too lean. It has enough to run at idle. The problem is, you need a little extra fuel in there to give it something to accelerate with. Once it's up to speed, you'll be pulling enough through the carb to run it right is the high speed mixture is set correctly. Think of that idle mix as not just running the saw at idle, but also giving it enough extra to start accelerating.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

celliott

On the carb limiters, it should be just the plastic tab style ones.
Remove the carb (two bolts, throttle+choke linkage) and take a look at the H and L jets. You'll see the plastic tabs. Either file them off with a flat file or shave them down with an exacto knife. Once you do one you can then remove both jets and smooth them up properly. You can take the plastic part completely off but it's easy enough to trim the tabs down.

Then, enjoy a complete range of adjustablity!

Madsens website has a good sound tutorial on chainsaw tuning BTW.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

ZR900

I increased the idle screw a touch and knocked the little plastic ears off the hi speed jet. I opened the hi speed beyond where it was limited to. The saw runs fine. Not sure which adjustment fixed it or maybe a combination of both.

Towards the end of the day I ran into a frozen clod of black dirt stuck to the bottom of a log I was cutting. That was the end of the fun. Chain was junk anyway. I have a new one for it.

Thx for the help.

ladylake


If you really want to se what the low adjuster does turn it back in 1/2 turn and then see how it runs.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ppxstnr

My 359 did the same thing. Thought I read that the Walbro Accel pump sticks. I put a Zama on mine and it runs fine. Might as well do the intake and pulse and fuel line and filter while you are in there.


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