225timberjack winch

[minn firewood cutter]

The problem i am having is when i am winching logs in i get them off the ground and if i take off and want to winch them up a little more the load will drop a foot then it will come up. I sure it is the adjustment on the big nut which is on the winch cylinder. The poppets are in the winch lines at the valve bank. But i wanted to know if any body has had this problem or any other ideas? Thanks Ted

[ForestFox]

Sounds like you have a "timing" issue between the winch clutch and winch brake. These ARE controlled mostly by the poppets and their diameter holes. They make or used to make different sizes for differing temps. If you look in the service manual under the winch section it will list the differing orifices available and when they are employed. Additionally in the valve section "winch section" it will show that the hyd lines need to be different sizes for proper action. The winch brake is larger diameter. It sounds like f the winch was operating before properly, and the change in temp to super cold could be affecting flow rate and hence the timing between winch brake activating and winch clutch releasing. If you don't have service manual, I can try and get you the data. The orifices are hard to find though. If your brake is holding good it is probably NOT the cylinder adjustment as that will quickly make freespool hard to run out!

[minn firewood cutter]

 The dropping issue has been there since we bought the machine 2 years ago. The winch hold the load perfect. When we got the skidder it was missing one poppet we found a guy that sent us a used one. it seem a little better but still drops. I thing the hoses are same size for the winch.Which hose should be larger? Also at times it is kind hard to pull cable out. Thanks Ted

[David-L]

I believe the A series jacks had a different set up as far as poppet valves and hoses. My 225A had disc's with slots in them as poppet valves. What series Jack do you have. My current is a D model and have never had to deal with the winch yet. Could need a cleaning as I can see debris causing restriction to the brake which would maybe cause the senario you are talking about. thats what was happening on my A when I got it. One of those disc was in backwards. Good luck.

[Bert]

I've never been around one that didn't do what you are describing. When you go to winch in it must first release the brake band before the winching begins. A drop in your hitch of a foot or so is perfectly normal from what ive seen.

As far as the free spool being hard. This depends a lot on weather. Friction on the brake band etc. Best thing Ive found is hook up to old stump, pull all the line out and winch it in with a little brake pressure to create some resistance. This will clean up clutch disks, brake band and straighten out your main line. If you start messing with the nut your describing pretty soon it wont hold a hitch or be extremely hard to get your cable out. 1 turn on that nut can make a huge difference.

[timberjackrob]

I thought it was normal also my 208 has always done it

[ForestFox]

When I first bought my Jack it had winch issues. I had to teach myself because "most "all the old guys that knew their stuff are retired. Mine did do the same thing. It pulled so hard in freespool. It would not hold a hitch also, it also had little winching power would just stop. I had it all. I cursed this thing as the worst winch ever designed. Now I love it! IT DOES NOT DROP THE HITCH ONE INCH NOW! It freespools like butter. It pulls like a bear. FACT! You are trying to make the winch brake band do what it is not meant to do. Act like what the poppets are supposed to do! Mine was missing the poppets also and the fittings they go in. My valve body was changed too. It was all cobbed up. You can fix it it just takes time and effort. Your winch brake band may be slightly out of round also and catching a bit making it hard to pull out. There are ways to adjust this also.
OK now there were 3 different series Hercules winches. 1 and 2 take the same poppets in both lines. They go in opposite directions though. Winch brake line is the bigger dia line also. Refer to manual or ask and I can find out for you. I hope you have a service manual because it is your best friend. You can download one from JD Bookstore. Series 3 are different poppets in each fitting. How do you tell what series you have, well there were three different size Hyd brake cylinders on these machines with the biggest dia Being the series 3. I believe it was 3.5" or 3.25" diameter. The other 2 series have smaller brake cylinders. Mine is the smallest dia and I can't even find a repack kit as they don't list any for it! These orifices are hard to find and I found mine at Harold's Logging in Maine. He did not have any more at the time. The temperature dictates what the proper diameter orifice is. That being said and at the risk of confusing you mine is a series one winch and is supposed to take 2 of the same orifice. Harold's gave me and marked which was which but they were both different, I couldn't get the right ones so I went with these and lucky me they did the trick. The best advice is Harolds sells a newer type bolt set for the clutch pack and you have no adjustments to make and it assures your winch clutch pack is adjusted perfect. It is the best money I spent.

[ForestFox]

Forgot to mention, the way my winch is working now the winch clutch is still engaged for about a 1/2 second after you put the winch valve control lever back into center position, the brake holds it where it stops, rock solid. So you should stop winching just before the hitch hits home.

[redneck]

if you send me a private message with your email address i will email you a service manual and owners manual for the 200 series timberjacks.  its a must have

[Neilo]

Poppets are only half the story here. It is also the amount of fluid flow required to engage clutch and free brake. To get this right, the travel of the clutch pack and brake rod have to be right.

Guessing yours is the late series 3 winch, the clutch travel is .070" and the brake rod travel 5/8"