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CB eClassic 2400 - routine cleaning advice / methods?

Started by Bob Lentz, February 19, 2015, 06:39:57 PM

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Bob Lentz

Been using my CB EC-2400 since 2010.  In general, things have been working fine.  I have had to replace the following items (under warranty) and i am wondering if my maintenance or lack of is causing these items to fail.

High Burn Solenoid
Firebox Air Tube
Fan Blower twice

So, i noticed that my solenoid box is full of dust and burnt wood chips.
Does that seem normal? I suspect this dust and and stuff is fouling the blower motor.

How do you guys clean your boilers? Specifically, what tools, tricks etc.s  How often?

I clean the ash compartment below, i scrape the water jacket, i use a torch to clean out the air tubes and air holes in the firebox.  What am i missing?

Thanks!
eClassic-2400
Triangle Tube Backup (Propane)
Heating 6500 sqft house and small pool

BDerreberry

I am new to the forum.  I have been burning an eclassic 2400 basically year round since the Fall of 2011.  It is the first wood boiler I have operated and I will say that the level of routine maintenance is more than I expected.  The annual cleaning is not that bad with the exception of the air passages.  I have read different posts and see that most are cleaning by wires screw drivers and shop vacs or compressed air.  Others attempt to burn out the creosote by keeping the door open, or using a torch.  I use wires and a shop vac and it is a pain.  If I only had to do it once a year it would not be that bad.

I do see a lot of soot and bits of hardened creosote in the air box but it does not seem to cause an issue.  What I have discovered is that you need to remove both air inlet elbows and clean them out.  mine are usually partially plugged with creosote, and it also allows you to attack the air channels from the back side to some extent.

Looking to find out how well other means of regularly clearing the air passages work.  This and the door gasket seem to be the obvious design flaws with this unit.  But again it is the only one I have operated.  There must be a better way than wires and a shop vac.  Plus who wants to shut it down for a day to fool with that in the dead of winter.

One bit of advice I can offer new owners.  Whatever you do if you get a stack cover, Do Not install a bird screen.  It collects creosote and clogs.  Then once you air flow is restricted the air passages in the unit really get clogged up.  This may be part of why I still struggle with keeping them clean to date as it was not feasible to clear all of it out initially after that problem developed.  Despite all of that it still works well now and is saving me a lot on Propane bills year round.
Brian

BDerreberry

Bob,  I also just recently replaced my main air passage solenoid.  Fortunately it went out one morning when I was filling it, and I was able to figure out what was wrong fairly quickly.  I initially thought it was just a blown fuse, but the new fuse blew as soon as it tried to port air.   I felt the solenoids and that one was unusually hot, not smoking, but it was the obvious next step.  So far I have had no issues with the air tube but the door seal was shot in less than 18 months.  I finally broke down and replaced it after I got tired of the creosote leaking down the front of the unit.

The next item that looks to be an issue is the tapered ceramic insert just below the air tube.  As you clear the coals and ash from this area daily to ensure you get prompt airflow, you gradually chip away at the ceramic and the opening keeps enlarging.  At some point it may get too large and allow large pieces to loge in between the air tube and the insert.  Perhaps this will not be a big deal?  I will let you know if I find any new tricks for cleaning.
Brian

bobby s

I always keep a spare solenoid on hand as well as a blower motor.
Through 4 1/2 years, I've only had to replace 2 solenoids and some door gaskets. I don't consider that too bad considering I've probably run about 40 cords of wood through this boiler. I also had to crimp new female disconnects onto the solenoid leads.
I try to scrape the heat exchangers every other week and clean the solenoid elbows once a month. I sometimes hook a shop vac
up to the air tubes to blow out any loose junk in there.



thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

DeerMeadowFarm

I pull the solenoid elbows off once a month and scrape the creosote out with cheap HF prybars: http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pry-bars/4-pc-heavy-duty-pry-bar-set-69281.html

I use a Craftsman cotter pin removal tool to clean out the side air holes:


 

I bought a brush from my dealer to clean off the exchange plate in the boiler (that's a real PITA)

I also have a set of boiler brushes that a friend gave me that I try to use to clean the air holes out with, but I get some very mixed results.

Joe99

I have a EC-3200 that is approx 4-yrs old and have the same problem with the solenoid box getting dust and small wood chips in it. You can't read any of the wiring diagrams that they put it. They are all black. I have found that it comes from smoke explosions and is mostly caused from the air pulse. I have mine set to pulse every 15 minutes for 60 seconds. If that pulse comes just after the stove has turned off from a burn and the temp is above 500-600 deg and there is much smoke in the box we get a smoke explosion and it forces some of the smoke backward through the air holes into the solenoid box. We should have a option to stop the air pulse if the reaction chamber temp is above a certain degree.

Other than that I have replaced the Air tube once. Only seems to last about 2 years. I clean the elbows in the solenoid box once a year. As far as the side air holes I have yet to clean them with any wire. Every time I put wood in the stove I make sure to scrap any loose material off the sides that might stop the creosote from running out of the holes when it is good and hot. This seems to keep them clear. I check them with forced air once a year and so far so good.

beenthere

Joe
You should add that option. Put in a sensor and limit the pulse time to when it is the right condition. Seems wouldn't be too difficult with the electronics and timers available.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

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