Building a utility shed out of logs, need some infos.

[roger 4400]

Hi. I might build a utility shed and want to use some of my red pines to build it ( maybe 12 in. logs). Suppose it is 16 X 16 ft is it possible to take some logs, and using my mill only cut flat 2 faces of the log and nail them on top of the others ( of course I will lock the corners ) so the outside and inside would look **live edge** and they would be flat one over the other, I would try to have walls  +- 8 to 12  inches thick. I may use 12 inches nail or even robar to fasten them one layer to the other. Will there be a big space between the logs when they will dry and because of my nails it will be impossible to retighten the walls ? Thank you . Roger

[BCsaw]

Nails tend to hold the logs apart as shrinkage occurs. You could use threaded rod to hold everything together and will allow you to tighten them when necessary.

[roger 4400]

Thank you BCsaw, it is a wise information.

[landscraper]

You could use Timberlok or Oly screws and if you got air gaps between the logs chink it with permachink?  I think the threaded portion is only the first couple inches or so and the shank is reduced diameter so that the upper log can slip down as it settles  - I use them in timber wall construction and we don't have to worry much about shrinkage with pressure treated. 

[Fundyheather]

Consider:

1. A utility building is not heated, usually built over damp earth so shrinkage is reduced.
2. The two contact log faces have both their wet sapwood faces sawn away, reducing shrinkage again.
So this is going to work... but... set your spikes down in the log face about 1/2" with a drift pin... and... use a resilient chinking between tiers like a foam sill gasket or a a thin layer of glass bat.  The logs may settle down on the spike a bit, but you have about 5/8" per log to play with and mostly have heartwood shrinkage to worry about.
There could be trouble with rain puddling on any exterior stuck out flat sawn faces.  Maybe extra roof overhang or special fit up would solve this.  This condition might even be preferable, as that retained dampness will also relieve any shrinkage tendency.  If you are still worried, drift your spike heads lower into a drilled out recess. 

I suggest sawing the third face that shows to the weather, and slightly coveing the top outside corner of each tier as it goes up, so there ends up a sort of drip overhang from the log bottom immediately above.
Clear as mud?

best luck,
jim
         

[RALFF]

I built my log home in the mid 1990's and I used compression pack springs. They consist of a 300 pound compression strength spring with a flat washer on each end held together by shrink wrap plastic. The company that I bought mine from also sold me a stepped type drill bit. The lower part of the bit drilled a on half inch hole and at the same time the upper part of the bit drilled a one and one quarter countersink hole about two or two and one half inches deep. The half inch hole extended to the bottom of the log to be held down. A 3/8th diameter lag bolt 12 inches long was placed in the spring assembly and was placed in the pilot hole and driven in with an impact wrench until the spring was completely compressed. The bolt head was countersunk about one and on quarter inch. If any log shrinkage occurred the log is able to slide down the lower part of the bolt without hanging up and the spring keeps tension on the log so no cracks open up between logs. These compression pack are still available through The Log Store on the internet. My home is about 20 years old and all my logs are still tight without and cracks.

Hope this helps,

Joe

[roger 4400]

Thank you all for sharing your experience and skill.   Roger

[4x4American]

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[sawmilllawyer]

Look at the Log Home Builders website. They use rebar while is driven through the top log and half way into the bottom log; large overhangs to prevent rot. Lots of good log building information there. Just my two cents.  Andy.