bought new stihl 362 think the dealer may have put wrong bar and chain on it?

weider1717 · February 05, 2015, 08:58:16 AM

picked up a new stihl 362 couple days ago it had a 25" bar on it asked the dealer to swap it out for a 20".

he did, i got it home looking at it he put a standard sthil rollamotic E bar on it read where pro saws need es bars? this may be one problem.

also noticed the chain I beleive is a "picco" it has a Green link and I can see "stihl" "c" and "p4". It's hard to see but this is all I can see on it.

should I get him to sawp to an ES bar and a rigid type chain? what are you recommendations? I am not a logger but I bought a pro saw and want to to act like a pro saw.

thanks

weider1717 · February 05, 2015, 10:22:22 AM

Guys, not demanding at all but if you have any suggestions please respond this is my first saw obviously I do not know much and did what research I could but I need to call the dealer asap if this is infact something I need to get changed / upgraded to fit the saw bettter.

a lot of views no thoughts again not demanding haha just sooner the better that I say something because I don't want him saying well "it's used" I can't swap the chain even though it hasn't been used. You know

beenthere · February 05, 2015, 10:25:24 AM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Good questions you ask, and if for me, I'd do the 20" bar with the rollomatic bar, the 33RSC chain (3/8") and the yellow link.

clww · February 05, 2015, 10:30:54 AM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

+1 with beenthere's post.

The green link is a safety chain, supposed to limit the kickback potential, more for the homeowner/occasional-use operator. IMO not many homeowners are going to with a $600+ chainsaw for trimming limbs around the fence. I would get the yellow link if you have more than a bit of experience operating a saw. Either a Rollomatic or a Duromatic bars will work. The skip-tooth chain I normally use is the 33 RSF 72.

HolmenTree · February 05, 2015, 10:54:07 AM

Quote from: weider1717 on February 05, 2015, 08:58:16 AM
he did, i got it home looking at it he put a standard sthil rollamotic E bar on it read where pro saws need es bars? this may be one problem.

also noticed the chain I beleive is a "picco" it has a Green link and I can see "stihl" "c" and "p4". It's hard to see but this is all I can see on it.
thanks

I'm afraid Stihl recommends the green link 33RS3-72 chain for the MS362 along with a E matic bar and that's what they show on that saw on their website. Even the MS461 is shown with a E bar.

The 33RS3 is still a chisel chain and with the extra safety links is a very smooth fast cutting chain for a 20" setup. Only when you get over 25" b/c setup is where a E Super guide bar is recommended, unless if you're cutting pulpwood with a short b/c 8 hrs a day a 16"-20"ES bar would be recommended.

"C" stands for Comfort. Where abouts did you see the P4 on the chain?

weider1717 · February 05, 2015, 11:59:54 AM

Great info guys, I really appreciate it and I jumped on it called the dealer and asked could I bring it back in to have a "yellow" link chain put on it inplace of the green link he said sure no problem that they just typically sell them with the green link and I may have to sign a waiver to receive the yellow link.

*do you guys have a specific part number for the yellow link chain I will need to request? I am guessing 33rsc-72? is that the yellow link?

I couldn't tell you where that p4 is other than on some of the links on the chain haha sorry I'm a newbie. :D

HolmenTree · February 05, 2015, 12:12:31 PM

Yes the 33RSC -72E is a full professional yellow code chain.
The P4 is probably an assembly line code stamp. At one time the operator running his shift on the line would have a stamp of his initials stamped into the connector links of the chain.

SawTroll · February 05, 2015, 12:20:37 PM

Quote from: beenthere on February 05, 2015, 10:25:24 AM
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Good questions you ask, and if for me, I'd do the 20" bar with the rollomatic bar, the 33RSC chain (3/8") and the yellow link.

What used to be called RSC now is called RS (and RMC is RM). ;)

JohnG28 · February 05, 2015, 12:23:40 PM

The E bar is fine, its going to last fine for your use. My 361 can with an E bar and green link chain. The bar has held up fine for 5 years and the chain cuts fine, I just have a bunch of other, more aggressive chains now. Most places only carry ES bars above 20", so that's why it likely had an ES with a 25" bar.

HuckFin · February 05, 2015, 12:41:42 PM

Did you buy the 362 or the 362CM? If your saw doesn't say 362C on it I would take it back and trade it for the updated CM version. I have the 362 CM and like it a lot. Also when I bought my saw it came with the 25 inch ES bar, but I figured I would be money ahead buying it that way and picking up a extra 20 inch bar and use the 25 incher for the occasional big tree. If you are going to be cutting logs that been laying on the ground and dirty, I would stay with the RM chain that you already have, less sharpening and a little bit safer but not quite as fast as RS chain.

HolmenTree · February 05, 2015, 03:03:31 PM

Quote from: SawTroll on February 05, 2015, 12:20:37 PM
Quote from: beenthere on February 05, 2015, 10:25:24 AM
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Good questions you ask, and if for me, I'd do the 20" bar with the rollomatic bar, the 33RSC chain (3/8") and the yellow link.

What used to be called RSC now is called RS (and RMC is RM). ;)

Niko, I'm really surprised you got that backwards

The RS and RM were the old models before the new "Comfort" designation. ;)

HolmenTree · February 05, 2015, 03:18:29 PM

For a newby a semi chisel 33RMC chain is a better chain to use. Holds a better edge making it stay sharp longer from accidental cutting into the dirt. Plus it is easier to sharpen with the file.

33RSC cut nice and fast alright but takes more skill to sharpen it and keeping it from getting dull so fast.

BTW Stihl does stock ES bars with the non laminated design with heavy duty replaceable noses in 16"-59" lengths. Something you have to pay a little more for.

JW IN VA · February 05, 2015, 08:59:11 PM

33 RSC72 is what I run on my 362 but I'e been running a saw off and on for 40 plus years.The 33 is for a 3/8 pitch with a .050 bar groove.If you are running a .325 ptch bar then 26rm81 would be your chain.The 33 calls for 13/64" file by the way. The pitch bar groove and drive link count are stamped into every Sthl bar I know of.Congrats on purchasing a good saw that is Made In USA.If your dealer has a catalogue he can give you,the chain numbers are fully explained.Use good Stihl mix in non-ethanol gas and a add some stabilizer to the mix if you don't saw that often.
Also,as soon as the chain stops "pulling"itself into the wood,Stop and sharpen it.I like to give mine a light touch up at every refill.Puchase a file depth gauge and keep the rakers at the proper height.Should you hit a rock,take the chain to a dealer and let them resharpen it. Keep an extra chain around and rotate them.I also like to turn the bar over every sharpening even if it does look like I put it on upside down.
Please be safe.

weider1717 · February 05, 2015, 09:11:35 PM

thanks guys I am going to ask for a 33 rsc 72 yellow link correct?

btw any guesses what chain I have on it now by the info I provided? I may keep it also if it's decent for certain uses.

thanks for all the help

HolmenTree · February 05, 2015, 09:27:04 PM

You have a 33RSC3 green link chain . Perfectly good chain as far as I'm concerned, and as you're inexperienced as you say you are I would recommend you not to go to the yellow chain.

That yellow chain has a fair ammount more kickback energy over the green chain....don't forget your using the world's most dangerous hand held power tool plus the working environment it works in.

pine · February 05, 2015, 09:43:10 PM

The ES bar cost more that maybe why the dealer put the less expensive E bar on it. The E bar will be just fine however from your description of use.

I am going to differ from what everyone else has said about the chain and that is because of what you said that I quote below:

Quote from: weider1717 on February 05, 2015, 10:22:22 AM
....... this is my first saw obviously I do not know much and did what research I could but I need to call the dealer asap if this is infact something I need to get changed / upgraded to fit the saw better.

Since this is your first saw I infer that you have little experience with a chain saw as well. If that is correct then I recommend that you go with the green link safety chain until you get some experience. Then you can switch to a Yellow link chain. The green link cuts fine but offers some safety features that might benefit you until your experience is higher. When you wear out the chain then switch over if you need to.

Since this is your first saw get good safety gear, helmet and eye protection, chaps etc.
Not cheap but less expensive than an ER visit.

Edit: I see that Holmentree said to get the green link as well while I was typing and distracted by the dogs

missedbass · February 06, 2015, 06:13:57 AM

Quote from: pine on February 05, 2015, 09:43:10 PM
The ES bar cost more that maybe why the dealer put the less expensive E bar on it. The E bar will be just fine however from your description of use.

I am going to differ from what everyone else has said about the chain and that is because of what you said that I quote below:

Quote from: weider1717 on February 05, 2015, 10:22:22 AM
....... this is my first saw obviously I do not know much and did what research I could but I need to call the dealer asap if this is infact something I need to get changed / upgraded to fit the saw better.

Since this is your first saw I infer that you have little experience with a chain saw as well. If that is correct then I recommend that you go with the green link safety chain until you get some experience. Then you can switch to a Yellow link chain. The green link cuts fine but offers some safety features that might benefit you until your experience is higher. When you wear out the chain then switch over if you need to.

Since this is your first saw get good safety gear, helmet and eye protection, chaps etc.
Not cheap but less expensive than an ER visit.

Edit: I see that Holmentree said to get the green link as well while I was typing and distracted by the dogs

+1 Great advise

beenthere · February 06, 2015, 09:52:24 AM

Some day, just to know more about it, I should put on a "green" chain to see how it might cut differently than the "yellow" without the safety links.

SawTroll · February 06, 2015, 09:54:30 AM

Quote from: pine on February 05, 2015, 09:43:10 PM
The ES bar cost more that maybe why the dealer put the less expensive E bar on it. The E bar will be just fine however from your description of use.

....

The bonus with the "E" bars is that they are lighter - so mostly nicer to use.

SawTroll · February 06, 2015, 09:58:48 AM

Quote from: beenthere on February 06, 2015, 09:52:24 AM
Some day, just to know more about it, I should put on a "green" chain to see how it might cut differently than the "yellow" without the safety links.

I have never used a "3" Stihl chain - but I believe the most notisable differenses are chip transport, and bore cutting.

HolmenTree · February 06, 2015, 10:58:54 AM

Quote from: SawTroll on February 06, 2015, 09:54:30 AM
Quote from: pine on February 05, 2015, 09:43:10 PM
The ES bar cost more that maybe why the dealer put the less expensive E bar on it. The E bar will be just fine however from your description of use.

....

The bonus with the "E" bars is that they are lighter - so mostly nicer to use.

The laminated E bar will last a long time for the casual user, but for a professional pulp cutter they can be worn out in a week or two.

The market for the saw companies is so competitive with endusers attracted to the lighter saws. A few ounces can make a big difference in a customers decision.
Customer is at the dealership, a Husqvarna in one hand and a comparable Stihl in the other........

Take a look at Stihl Canada's website and E consumer bars are displayed on saws right up to the MS461. But go up one size to the MS661 and there it sports the expensive new Stihl weight reduced ES bar.
http://m.en.stihl.ca/STIHL-Products/Chain-saws-and-pole-pruners/22281-100/MS-661-C-M.aspx

Here's Stihl USA's MS661 with similar bar but a different color.
http://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/professional-saws/ms661cm/

LeeB · February 06, 2015, 12:24:00 PM

Quote from: HolmenTree on February 06, 2015, 10:58:54 AM

The market for the saw companies is so competitive with endusers attracted to the lighter saws. A few ounces can make a big difference in a customers decision.
Customer is at the dealership, a Husqvarna in one hand and a comparable Stihl in the other........

Didn't know Stihl made anything that could compare to Husqvarna. ;D :D

pine · February 06, 2015, 12:34:44 PM

Quote from: LeeB on February 06, 2015, 12:24:00 PM

Didn't know Stihl made anything that could compare to Husqvarna. ;D :D

That is true they try very hard to keep their quality and standards up and not lower them; so it is hard to compare. ;D :D ;)

SawTroll · February 06, 2015, 03:20:10 PM

Quote from: LeeB on February 06, 2015, 12:24:00 PM

Didn't know Stihl made anything that could compare to Husqvarna. ;D :D

Comparable doesn't mean the Stihl is as good! ;D

ihookem · February 08, 2015, 05:34:56 PM

I ran the green chains on my 034 for 20 yrs. and thought it was a heck of a saw. Then I go to the "sharp corner loops and it really cut faster. Not that I care but the rounded corner one were just fine. I think the rounded corners were all green. The 362 is 1/2 horse more than the 034? Even with the green loop you will be surprised how much the saw wants to take off. You will really like that saw. I loved my 034 ,,,,, till I got my 441.