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Forestry tractor modifications

Started by mf40diesel, February 03, 2015, 08:13:55 AM

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mf40diesel

I use my john deere 5055e 4wd tractor with a farmi winch for all our wood lot management. It's a very capable puller, however the lack of a skid plate, and engine compartment protection is one of the largest issues I can see with using tractors in the woods.

It seems in Northern Europe it's very common for farmers to log with their tractors in the winter, however their machines are really nicely armored for the job. Searches on the Internet don't seem to turn up anything. Does anyone know of any USA companies that mod, or sell fabricated armor for our tractors? A top notch welder could create skid plates, but I want it to look pretty professional and rugged.

While I would love to justify an old skidder, for me a tractor makes tons more sense, being far more versatile, but I want to protect it. 
John Deere 5055e, mfwd. Farmi JL306 Winch. Timberjack 225 Skidder. Splitfire splitter & Stihl saws.

Rick Alger

I believe the Payeur company in Sherbrooke PQ modifies farm tractors for the woods.

wfcjr

Quote from: mf40diesel on February 03, 2015, 08:13:55 AM
I use my john deere 5055e 4wd tractor with a farmi winch for all our wood lot management. It's a very capable puller, however the lack of a skid plate, and engine compartment protection is one of the largest issues I can see with using tractors in the woods.

Does anyone know of any USA companies that mod, or sell fabricated armor for our tractors? A top notch welder could create skid plates, but I want it to look pretty professional and rugged.

While I would love to justify an old skidder, for me a tractor makes tons more sense, being far more versatile, but I want to protect it.

We bought our JD 5095M with factory installed skid plates.  Have you checked with your JD dealer to see if skid plates are available from Deere as an aftermarket install?  Also, would recommend a grill guard for the front of the tractor.  Also got that as a factory install.  Would also inquire about availability as an after build part from JD.

roger 4400

For myself I use my tractor and a Farmi winch like you but I only go in my trails that are nice, never go on stumps or in bushes. I use a snatchblock pulley or a special rope to stretch my winch capacity (165 ft for the winch and one 50 and a 100 ft rope that is 8000 pounds resistant and non stretchy ) . I never go out of my roads unless well cleaned. Le Payeur uses Kioti tractors and all their metal plates are done by Metavic ( métaux Victoriaville in Victoriaville, Québec ) Métavic builds the wood trailer and crane to put the logs into their wood trailer.
Baker 18hd sawmill, massey Ferguson 1643, Farmi winch, mini forwarder, Honda foreman 400, f-250, many wood working tools, 200 acres wooden lots,6 kids and a lovely and a comprehensive wife...and now a Metavic 1150 m14 log loader so my tractor is a forwarder now

beenthere

Agree with wcjfr, to check with Deere.

My compact utility 4300 had an optional armor plate and other parts available to add.

So far without the armor and not had a problem, but there are a lot of delicate parts exposed under there.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

pineywoods

I log with a larger model Kubota. They are pretty rugged underneath with 2 exceptions. The hydraulic filters are exposed sitcking out the side of the transmission case and the radiator is a bit vulnerble. There is a serious downside to belly pans. They collect leaves, limbs and oily debris, a first class fire hazard. I've seen more tractors destroyed from belly pan fires than ones that were damaged to lack thereof. A sharp driver that realizes a tractor is NOT a dozer is the best protection..
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

thecfarm

I use to log with my tractor on my land. Used it in the woods steady for 3-4 years. Now I just do my firewood. I cut with My Father and we kept the trails clear of brush and I still do now. We would cut anything we left in the woods in short pieces,2-3 feet long,2 feet being better. We tried to cut the limbs short while they was still on the trees. Anything that was curved,up in the air, was cut shorter. Yes,it all takes time,but so far,no major damage has been done. If I had to share the money with a land owner,than I would not have the time to do the above. I am amazed at what an area looks like in just 2 years that was cut. Cutting limbs short allowed us to drive over it,but we tried not too. Yes,the above does take time to do,but anything we would do would improve the land. Trails was cut wide and we would cut a road to a certain area if needed.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

wfcjr

Quote from: roger 4400 on February 03, 2015, 09:31:10 AM
For myself I use my tractor and a Farmi winch like you but I only go in my trails that are nice, never go on stumps or in bushes. I use a snatchblock pulley or a special rope to stretch my winch capacity (165 ft for the winch and one 50 and a 100 ft rope that is 8000 pounds resistant and non stretchy ) . I never go out of my roads unless well cleaned.

Would second this.... use the winch & self releasing snatch blocks whenever possible.  Fell trees in woods, but pretty much stick to logging trails with the tractor.  In addition to undercarriage, sidewalls of ag tires are more susceptible to puncture than sidewalls on logging tires.

But even if you stick primarily to logging trails, the undercarriage & grill protection is still important.

John Mc

We have a local welder in my area who is a genius in setting up a tractor for woods work. He does belly pans, limb risers, grill protection, etc. What I really like about his work is that he doesn't just blindly tack on protection. He gives a lot of though to what parts need to be easily removed to allow for service, leaves "portholes" or other access methods to allow you to get to grease zerks, when necessary, he adds tubing to extend grease zerks out to where they can be reached easily.  If you ask for some sort of customization, he's happy to do it, but most of what he does is stuff that he thinks up on his own. I've run into a couple of his happy customers who've made comments like "I'm glad he did the work, because I wouldn't have thought to ask for ____"

I would not be surprised if any place that has a decent sized logging industry, or enough folks doing small-scale logging for their own purposes, probably has someone similar.  The thing to look for is not just someone who is a good welder, but someone who is also familiar with using tractors in the woods, and good at thinking through what might be needed.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow


mf40diesel

Adding ton.....  Badarse!  And only a few hours from me!  Thanks so much. I did find a place in Alabama, but that is in Alabama! Which is pretty far to go...  ;)

Thanks so much for the help.

John
John Deere 5055e, mfwd. Farmi JL306 Winch. Timberjack 225 Skidder. Splitfire splitter & Stihl saws.

dsgsr

I've bought two grapples from Addington. Very good quality. I don't know of their fabrication jobs.

David
Northlander band mill
Kubota M59 TLB
Takeuchi TB175 Excavator
'08 Ford 550 dump
'87 International Dump
2015 Miller 325 Trailblazer Welder/Gen

lopet

I made my own, think I used 3/8 plate. Also made some guards for steering cylinder and valve stams. Front grill, limb risers , guards for the fuel tank, the whole nine yards. Yes it took quite a bit of time to build and maybe doesn't look like professional made, but i couldn't care less, as it does the trick.


 


    
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

shinnlinger

Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

thecfarm

A good idea and yes,it does look good.  ;D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Stephen Alford

   Very nice lopet. Only grief I have had is snow. When its deep and wet you can get hung up and have to winch out. Sorry these are reposted pics but just a couple thoughts to consider.



 
Hydraulic winch is mounted forward. Belly pan is ribbed and runs full length.



 
Extra protection around fuel tank. Removable sides.



 
Rebar around rims, pipe cap over valve stem, Forestry specials on rear.



 
Add on bumper blade for the front.



 
The vise is a hugh help when you work alone.



 
Added a Mr Beenthere  scabbard for the saws.  :)

logon

lopet

A rebar along the rim is a pretty good idea and i never thought about it. I guess it's a little late for that in my case . :o

And I copied your vise thingy a while ago. Hope you don't mind . ;D
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

John Mc

I've been wondering about using some expanded metal (or something with some holes) in places on the bottom of my belly pan in order to let water and snowmelt out. I realize this may not be as good a protection as solid metal, but I'm thinking some easy way of getting stuff out might be worth considering.

Maybe I'd be better off with a trap door in solid metal? That way, I'd have a way to get out any sticks/stones/dirt.  Or maybe I'm just over-thinking this?

I've made it for 7 years with no belly pan, since most of my work in the woods is from the trails, using my logging winch and self-releasing snatch block to pull things out. I've damaged the hydrostatic filter, but this was while working in an open field (backed over a flat rock which flipped up just the wrong way). Still, I'm thinking some amount of protection would be wise.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Jeff

Holes that let stuff out, just as easily lets stuff in. ;)
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

sawyerf250

l log with a Massey 375 4wd with a Wallenstein Fx 90 winch.. l to often question whether to put skid plates and guards on my machine, limb risers would be awful nice though. My down fall is that my tractor is not solely a logging tractor which would simplify the question, making it a definitive yes. lol but l in many cases would have to have it all bolt on stuff ( not so much the skid plates) as that it is a farm use tractor also, l use it mostly in spring and fall to log and in summer months it is used on in our commercial hay making operations, winter is just a pain in the  .....  and we use it for plowing. l do however really like the idea of putting the rebar around the bead of the rim to toughen that up l can see doing that in the very near future..
Massey Ferguson 375 w/838 loader, Wallenstien Fx 90 winch, 3 Husqvarna chainsaws

sawyerf250

When we bought or tractor it already had the exhaust piped out the back as the previous owner also used it (very little) in the woods so thankfully that is one less thing l have to worry about.. l take most all of the limbs out in tree length hardwood what doesn't go for pulp goes in the stove.  :) Softwood stand l just "mulch" it up with the saw and run it over..
Massey Ferguson 375 w/838 loader, Wallenstien Fx 90 winch, 3 Husqvarna chainsaws

Ford_man

I bought a dozer a year ago in the winter so I did not crawl under it and look at the bottom. $6000 later it is ready to come home with new oil pan, belly pan and clutch housing plus some other parts.

wfcjr

Quote from: sawyerf250 on February 05, 2015, 10:20:55 AM
l log with a Massey 375 4wd with a Wallenstein Fx 90 winch.. l to often question whether to put skid plates and guards on my machine, limb risers would be awful nice though. My down fall is that my tractor is not solely a logging tractor which would simplify the question, making it a definitive yes. lol but l in many cases would have to have it all bolt on stuff ( not so much the skid plates) as that it is a farm use tractor also, l use it mostly in spring and fall to log and in summer months it is used on in our commercial hay making operations, winter is just a pain in the  .....  and we use it for plowing. l do however really like the idea of putting the rebar around the bead of the rim to toughen that up l can see doing that in the very near future..

We also run ours in summer.... plow, disc & plant fields, also mow both cultivated plots & meadows.
Run box blade, mower, you name it.  Skid plates never get in the way of summer work.  Actually come in handy when we have bottomed out a couple of times using grapple or bucket.

DeerMeadowFarm


sawyerf250

No, the skid plates l would have no issue with whatsoever they would be an all year round add-on. However roll bars and a guard here and a guard there other wise helpful in the woods to prevent a stick jamming etc. into something would be a hindrance in the spring for planting season and summer for haying or in the fall for preseason plowing.
Massey Ferguson 375 w/838 loader, Wallenstien Fx 90 winch, 3 Husqvarna chainsaws

beenthere

Quote from: Ford_man on February 05, 2015, 11:30:54 AM
I bought a dozer a year ago in the winter so I did not crawl under it and look at the bottom. $6000 later it is ready to come home with new oil pan, belly pan and clutch housing plus some other parts.

Sounds like a stump or a rock hit.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ford_man

It was like that when I bought it NO skid plate. I know I didn't do it because all I have done with it is push dirt.

mf40diesel

So I talked to Tom Addington at (naturally enough) Addington machine.  I believe this summer I am going to pull the trigger and have him install skid plates under my machine and a full canopy with limbrisers.  I still will have the ag tires to be careful of, but the rest of the machine will hopefully be toughened up alot. 

Really wish I could add valve stem protection, but seems like to weld on the wheel you'd have to remove the tire right?

Pretty excited, thank you so much for all of the great insight!
John Deere 5055e, mfwd. Farmi JL306 Winch. Timberjack 225 Skidder. Splitfire splitter & Stihl saws.

shinnlinger

No experience with this, but I don't see why you couldn't weld on caps, particularly if your tires are loaded as that is a lot of mass to dissipate heat.   If worried about it, take weight off, release air pressure and only weld an inch at a time.  You could clip a vice grip to your cap as a heat synch. 
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

shinnlinger

And after each inch of weld, rotate the tire a few times so the rim guard cools the rim/tire
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

thecfarm

I think I read somewhere about the tire might explode with air pressure in the tire? That's the danger,but as shinnlinger said,release the air pressure.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79


Peter Drouin

I think if you have a tube in the tire and you get the rim red hot with a weld you will have a hole in the tube.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.


ridgerunner77

I hope I remember what is on the links I posted if I ever consider or see someone else fixing to weld on a rim with a tire on it............I showed up an hr or so after a split rim let go ............don't want to revisit that kinda scene if I can help it.......

sawyerf250

Quote from: mf40diesel on February 20, 2015, 02:28:49 AM
So I talked to Tom Addington at (naturally enough) Addington machine.  I believe this summer I am going to pull the trigger and have him install skid plates under my machine and a full canopy with limbrisers.  I still will have the ag tires to be careful of, but the rest of the machine will hopefully be toughened up alot.


Did they give you any idea of what it would cost to do those sorts of things to your machine? Just curious as to what a machine shop might charge to make all the necessary modifications? l have been giving it more thought and think l may invest in the materials and set to doing the same to mine this season, or at least start the project.
Massey Ferguson 375 w/838 loader, Wallenstien Fx 90 winch, 3 Husqvarna chainsaws

mf40diesel

Due to him having never done my exact model... a JD 5055e, he stated that it would be a case where I drop the tractor there and pick up a week or so later.  He thought based on the tractor's size that doing a full skid plate on the vitals (wiring / linkages / hydraulic block / filters etc) with bolt on clean outs and filter access would be a little over $2000.  Then for a steel robust canopy that ties into the roll bar, with limb risers and I assume front posts too, the same.  I would expect roughly $5000 for the whole job.

To me, $2500 to protect the tractor, and $2500 to protect me is probably worth it.  I gave a lot for the tractor, I'd like to protect my investment, and by protecting me I can be around longer to use it.

We currently just log off my parents land, however I have had some neighbors asking me to do some logging for them.  My dream has been to buy some substantial acreage (50+ acres) , and cut off it myself to help pay for the land, and harvest firewood off of it till the end of time. 

I am thinking about after modifying the tractor, getting my paws on a new Tajfun winch, and trying to actually pick up some small woodlot jobs for folks.  Just really to dub around when I am home (I go to sea for a living) Their are enough large landowners where I live that harvesting some firewood for folks I think could really be doable.
John Deere 5055e, mfwd. Farmi JL306 Winch. Timberjack 225 Skidder. Splitfire splitter & Stihl saws.

lopet

Protecting your self should be a primary thing imo and protecting the tractor a secondary.  You may wanna consider the weight your adding, it will give you more traction, but makes other chores slower on the downside, specially when you're on the lower hp end.  Also be aware, that no matter how careful you think you are, your baby is gonna get some dents and scratches sooner or later. ;D
Would be interesting to see some before and after pictures, because I always like to see , how others do it. 
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

bill m

This is what I did on my tractor for protection.

  

  

 
I did the same thing on a Kubota for someone. Cost him about $3000 for everything.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

woodrat

Just ordered a Wallenstein winch for my 32 hp Yanmar a couple of days ago, should have it next week sometime. Finally! I've been borrowing a small Farmi winch for years, but finally needed to have my own. I have 15 acres and also need to deal with a couple of small lots that my parents own, 3 and 5.7 acres each. I've often thought about undercarriage protection. So far, the only damage I've done underneath is slightly bent the clutch linkage, but still...

What do people mean by "limb risers"? Is that something up above to sweep low hanging limbs up and out of the way? I have ROPS and a fiberglass roof on mine, but I have done some damage to the corners of the roof with low hanging limbs. Still not sure how to deal with that, other than to take off the roof when logging.
1996 Woodmizer LT40HD
Yanmar 3220D and MF 253
Wallenstein FX 65 logging winch
Husky 61, 272XP, 372XP, 346XP, 353
Stihl 036, 046 with Lewis Winch
78 Chevy C30 dump truck, 80 Ford F350 4x4
35 ton firewood splitter
Eastonmade 22-28 splitter and conveyor
and ...lots of other junk...

mf40diesel

Limb risers are the post that run forward from the top of the canopy to the forward part of the hood. They do just as the name implies, push limbs up out of the way, help protect your exhaust (if it is up there) and help protect you from limbs coming in the cab with you.

They would not only be helpful in the woods, but super helpful for me bushogging.  Besides dubbing around in the woods, I have a side business bushogging fields for folks around where I live.  Every year the trees make their slow march in reclaiming the fields, with risers, at the expense of my paint, I could be alittle more aggressive in staying near the edges of the field.
John Deere 5055e, mfwd. Farmi JL306 Winch. Timberjack 225 Skidder. Splitfire splitter & Stihl saws.

wfcjr

Had our dozer up-armored with forestry package, tank guards, belly pan guards etc, from this company;
GR Manufacturing.  They also offer forestry guard packages for ag tractors.  Does anyone have any knowledge of, or experience with these folks on the tractor side?

http://www.grtractors.com/

http://www.grtractors.com/ProductPages/AgriculturalTractorPages/5000%20Series%20Price%20Page.htm

Pricing on the components looks reasonable, of course need to factor in labor/time to install.

John Mc

Bill, it looks like we both pulled the trigger on this at around the same time.  I just got my tractor back from the local Monkton VT guy I told you about. Added belly pan (in two pieces), limb risers and FOPS. Pics to follow.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

wfcjr

Quote from: John Mc on August 11, 2015, 12:55:00 PM
Bill, it looks like we both pulled the trigger on this at around the same time.  I just got my tractor back from the local Monkton VT guy I told you about. Added belly pan (in two pieces), limb risers and FOPS. Pics to follow.

John,

I did not pull the trigger on the mods for our ag tractor that we use in the woods, just for the dozer.
Trying to figure out whether to pull the trigger on the ag tractor mods.

Pics of what you had done would be great.

Bill

g_man

Limb risers on a woods tractor would indeed be handy. If you have a ROPS especially. Hanging limbs that get caught on the high ROPS bend forward on the opposite side and hit you around the back of the head and shoulders. A set of risers will prevent this.

wfcjr

Quote from: John Mc on August 11, 2015, 12:55:00 PM
Bill, it looks like we both pulled the trigger on this at around the same time.  I just got my tractor back from the local Monkton VT guy I told you about. Added belly pan (in two pieces), limb risers and FOPS. Pics to follow.

Pics sir, we need pics...

Thanks ...

John Mc

OK. Here are a couple pictures of the "forest hardening" done to my New Holland TC 33D. Not many so far - to wet and rainy to get under the tractor for good belly pan pictures. I've been debating doing this for years. The main reason for holding off was that I was debating getting a larger tractor. I finally decided that this size fits most of my needs, and I appreciate the ability to get into tighter spots with this tractor.

The tractor mostly stays on the trails and winches logs out to trailside, so it's not seeing hard-core logging use. I did figure I needed a bit more protection for me and for the tractor than what it came with. This is sort of a "Forestry Package Lite": I didn't have him do everything he normally does on larger tractors.

First is the FOPS with limb risers. Normally, Tom puts a screen on the back of the ROPS. I told him to skip this one, since the screen on my logging winch provides adequate coverage here. He also often puts in side screens and a "windshield" screen in front. I decided to skip these for now and see what I think of it later. Hard to see in this photo, but the top is expanded metal with a couple of bars across for reinforcement. I may wish I had gone with a solid sheet of metal, but I figured I'd rather have the extra visibility. I can always change that later if I want (when I get sick of all the cedar "crumbs" dropping down the back of my shirt).



 


Here's a partial shot of the belly pan showing the added guard that comes up around the engine oil filter. You can see the clean-looking black piece rising up from the belly pan (there are similar guards around some hydraulic fittings on the other side, and inside the right rear wheel to protect the hydraulic filter). The belly pan in two pieces: a smaller front piece is held in place by two bolts, plus a "tongue and groove" sort of arrangement that mates to the rear part of the pan. I can drop that front piece in just a minute or two in order to change the oil filter: remove two bolts and slide apart the T&G joint. This piece is small and light enough to handle with no special tools. The pan has strategically placed holes to allow greasing various zerks without removing the pan.



 

I still need to add some protection for the tire valve stems, but I'm waiting until I have to have the tires off the rims to install that. I could add uprights to further support the front side of the FOPS (attached to the Loader mount brackets), but I don't think that will be necessary.

The whole thing cost me less than $2000. I'm guessing I saved a little since the backhoe subframe on my tractor gave him an easy place to attach the rear pan to. The guy I took it to is just a few miles from me. He has done a number of forestry tractor conversions for folks who use their tractors a lot more heavily than I do. I really like how he thinks things through in his designs - little details that I would not have thought to ask for.

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

thecfarm

John Mc,I only cut on my land too.I am very fussy with my trails.  I cut back the branches and I cut down small trees to get to the logs. My stumps are always cut down as low as I can get them too. Branches in the trails are not allowed. When I was cutting with my Father,he would drive the tractor, I use to ride in and walk out. I really kept the brush out of the trails when I walked out.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

wfcjr

Quote from: John Mc on August 11, 2015, 09:29:02 PM
OK. Here are a couple pictures of the "forest hardening" done to my New Holland TC 33D.

John Mc,

On the risers & FOPS looks like a good combination of protection & openness.
One of my concerns is that I like the open cab when working our fields in the summer.
But still want some "overhead cover" for woods work.

Also on the side & rear screens.... When using our spreader for fertilizer, I need to be able to reach back to open & close the spreader chute.   Also on sides, just concerned that it would feel too hemmed in and perhaps compromise the ability to mount other stuff in places.  So your open arrangement looks nice.

The cover for the oil filter looks nifty.  That is one of the nice things about guys who do custom work.  That kind of detail is not available in the over-the-counter protection packages.

Nice work...


John Mc

Thecfarm -

I tend to keep my trails clear as well. However, I've lost the hydraulic filter that is up inside the right rear wheel twice: once when the tractor was three days old. I was working in an open field, making a drainage swale. I drove across a large flat rock, which flipped up in just the right way to take out the filter and break off the fitting on which the filter was mounted. The other time my tractor was being used by a friend about 5 years ago to clean up his property. His front wheel drove just right across a 2x4. The end lifted up and harpooned the same hydraulic filter. With a Hydrostatic transmission, you aren't going anywhere when that filter comes off.

Fortunately, neither of these were out in the middle of nowhere in the woods. However, both are things I could easily see happening while working in the woods, so I've made it a point to be very careful. Still, without some guarding, I figured it was only a matter of time before I hit it again.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

Bill, if you are ever out near Monkton, I'd be happy to show you in more detail. I may also be able to arrange for you to see the work this guy did on a larger tractor owned by a forester who sometimes does smaller-scale, low-impact logging.

Your reasons for leaving off some of the screening are similar to mine. If your logging winch has a screen mounted on it, you may not need to worry about rear coverage anyway. On my little tractor, the winch screen pretty much covers the rear of the ROPS anyway. Maybe it would fall short on a larger tractor with a higher ROPS (on the other hand, maybe it would have a larger winch with a bigger screen?)
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

John Mc

I've only used the tractor with the new mods in the woods a couple of brief times so far, but I have to say those limb risers are GREAT.  It's so nice to be able to slide under lower-hanging branches and just have them ride right on up over me, rather than trying to catch them before they hit me, and lift them up over the ROPS.  Just barging through and breaking off the limbs has it's own risks.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

mf40diesel

John Mc,

Being in VT, am I correct in assuming that when you say Tom did the work on your tractor, you meant Tom Addington?  I as well, am hoping to utilize his work in the not too distant future. I am looking at the possibility of buying a new home, with a fair amount of land (42 acres) unfortunately, right out of the gate, a fairly large area that was all field has been allowed to grow up, unchecked, for several years, and quite honestly is on the edge of still being able to be bushhogged. If I don't catch it soon, the view will be lost. Therefore, I need some undercarriage protection for the very high bushes I will encounter immediately.
John Deere 5055e, mfwd. Farmi JL306 Winch. Timberjack 225 Skidder. Splitfire splitter & Stihl saws.

John Mc

Quote from: mf40diesel on August 14, 2015, 07:14:14 AM
Being in VT, am I correct in assuming that when you say Tom did the work on your tractor, you meant Tom Addington?

No, the guy who did mine is Tom Burritt of Quality Fabrication, here in Monkton, Vermont (western VT, SE of Burlington). He does great work, and puts a lot of thought into making the design user-friendly for ease of maintenance on the tractor. I dropped the tractor off when I was leaving for a week's vacation, and picked it up when I got back. Now that I've used it a bit, I don't know how I got along in the woods without it.

If I'd been willing to spend more, he could have added even more doo-dads and tweaks to make it even more convenient. I just wanted to get this done with without upsetting my wife over my spending to feed my gadget fixation. I may add options later.

Sorry for the obscure name reference, I thought I had posted info on him earlier in this thread, but that may have been a different thread, or in a PM to Wfcjr, who is considering similar mods to his tractor.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

brendonv

John mc. Can yo show a close up of how they tied the forest risers into the factory rops?
"Trees live a secret life only revealed to those that climb them"

www.VorioTree.com

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vorio-Tree-Experts-LLC/598083593556636

wfcjr

Quote from: mf40diesel on February 20, 2015, 10:21:01 PM
Due to him having never done my exact model... a JD 5055e, he stated that it would be a case where I drop the tractor there and pick up a week or so later. 

You may also want to check out GR Manufacturing.  They do packages that are model specific for John Deere.  I had their forestry mods added to our dozer & the fit & finish is great.  Of course,  you will need to add the cost of shop time to their parts.  They will only sell to Deere dealers & then the dealer needs to do the install.  Currently considering it for our 5095M.

http://www.grtractors.com/

John Mc

Quote from: brendonv on August 31, 2015, 05:51:40 PM
John mc. Can you show a close up of how they tied the forest risers into the factory rops?

Here are a couple photos. The newly added FOPS/risers were made from round pipe. Her formed flat stock around the pipe in a U shape, and bolted that to the existing ROPS. There were already three holes through the top of the ROPS as it came from the factory (not sure what they were there for... maybe mounting accessory lights?) It might have been better (from a liability standpoint, if not from a strength standpoint) to have extended the U brackets back and just made them clamp the ROPS rather than go through it? I'm not worried about it, strength-wise.

Top View:
 

Bottom View:
 
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

brendonv

"Trees live a secret life only revealed to those that climb them"

www.VorioTree.com

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vorio-Tree-Experts-LLC/598083593556636

John Mc

Using the round tubing was a good idea on his part. He could pivot it where ever it needed to go to make the roof level without having to do anything fancy where that tube meets the top of the ROPS
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

DeerMeadowFarm

Looks like I need to come up with some guards for Fergie. This weekend I ran a stick through my grill:


 

Bad enough but it got to the battery and poked a hole in it as well.  :-\


 

I also broke this "shift position sensor" (2nd time since I've owned it)....


 

John Mc

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 09, 2015, 08:05:13 AM
Looks like I need to come up with some guards for Fergie. This weekend I ran a stick through my grill:

Ouch!
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

mf40diesel

wfcgr... I appreciate the link to GR manufacturing. I had heard of them before, and their products look great.  Surely the fit and finish will also be excellent. 

Funny though, I called them several months ago, back last winter as a matter of fact.  They do not make a set up that fits my exact model  (2014 5055e)  they only offer "e," specific models in your size range.  They do make the kits for the 5X25 models, which I think are nearly, it not exactly the same.  Strangely, they were completely unwilling to put any effort whatsoever into cross referencing to see if they were the same.  I tried too,  on the phone I was like "I think they might be really similiar, just the newer model designations,"  and I got a really cold "NOPE."  then I asked if their was any plans on building new plans later,  I got an equally cold response.

It was really funny, and quite honestly I wasn't at all impressed.  I have no doubt that their products are great, but quite honestly I don't really want to call them again.  With that said though, I would love to see pictures of your machine when complete.  Too bad that we can't put it on ourselves, my hunch is Deere charges a ton to install.
John Deere 5055e, mfwd. Farmi JL306 Winch. Timberjack 225 Skidder. Splitfire splitter & Stihl saws.

DeerMeadowFarm

Got the front end guarded up. Still got a lot more to do....

 

wfcjr

Deer Meadow Farm.... too bad about the grill.  On a good note, the new front screen looks good & stout... nice job.

mf40diesel....
Too bad that the folks at GR were not more customer friendly.  Too many businesses do not do a good job with customer relations.
Even if they have no plans to expand their offering, there is a nice, tactful way to say no, and there is a cold tactless way to do it as well.

In terms of the tractor mods.... I have not pulled the trigger.  The Deere dealers, both heavy equipment and ag, are brutal in their installation prices.  They really jack up the time required.  What makes it worse is that GR will only sell to authorized John Deere dealerships.  So if one goes that route, one is really at the mercy of the JD dealership service department. 

If the dozer mods from GR are representative of the tractor mods, the fit & finish are excellent.  But the installation charges are brutal.
I got an estimate from our local Deere dealership on installation.  Based on how high the numbers were, I have put this project on the back burner.

John Mc

Bill - would you be willing to share what the installed cost of the GR mods were for your tractor?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

wfcjr

Quote from: John Mc on September 26, 2015, 06:45:57 PM
Bill - would you be willing to share what the installed cost of the GR mods were for your tractor?

John,

I did not do the installs on the tractor.  I did them on our dozer, but held off on the tractor.
If you like, happy to PM you with parts costs on tractor & labor (install estimates) on tractor.
Please bear in mind that any mods that GR does are specific to certain JD model tractors only.

Lemme know.....

Bill

DeerMeadowFarm

I'm looking now at fabricating some belly pans. My FEL has a sub-frame that runs all the way to the back and would give me some good support to attach some plates. How thick should I go?

John Mc

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 28, 2015, 09:00:03 AM
I'm looking now at fabricating some belly pans. My FEL has a sub-frame that runs all the way to the back and would give me some good support to attach some plates. How thick should I go?

Depends on your tractor and how large a span will be unsupported. My belly pan is 1/2" thick. I thought that was overkill, since I was mostly worried about things flipping and poking up in to it (which is what occurred both of the times it was damaged).  The guy who did the fabrication talked me in to 1/2". His thought was that even with a compact tractor, once you've got the tires loaded, a loader and other implements on, the weight gets up there. If you do high-center it, you want something that will not bend easily. Once it's bent, it will be hard to get on and off for maintenance, and good luck ever getting it back into its original shape. 

You do want to do some thinking about how to get it on and off with a minimum of fuss. It doesn't take much 1/2" plate before you'll need a floor jack to raise and lower it into position.  Also, be sure to make provisions to access various grease zerks, oil filters, and such for maintenance. (I think getting my hydrostatic filter off will require removing my large rear pan, but fortunately that's something I only need to access every 300 hours.)
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

DeerMeadowFarm

Yah I was thinking 1/2" but also was thinking that 1/2" will be big $'s....

As far as handling the pan(s) I plan to make it in a couple different pieces to make it easier to install/remove when needed. I'm thinking of mocking it up in luan first to make sure I get everything where I want it.

DeerMeadowFarm

Just completed some mods to my skidding winch. I added a saw scabbard, extended my chain boxes and welded a mount onto the back of my self-releasing snatch block. I made (but haven't installed yet) a mount for one of my Peaveys. I need a way to carry a combi-can to it and I'll be good.



  

  

  

 

g_man

I like those chain boxes for the chokers to hang in. I think I will steal that idea. It would be a lot faster than chasing a chain all around the winch to get it free like I do now.
This is my cant hook set-up.



 

gg

711ac

I missed this thread somehow. Thanks to JohnMc for the link. I'm "bumping this thread.
This is what I did to my tractor, a M9540 Kubota with a very "exposed" underside. Trans. filters, hyd lines, loader valving, fuel tank and some wiring. The most time consuming part was that there are only a few suitable/sturdy mounting points that were at different "elevations". I wanted as smooth of a pan from front to back that would support the tractor when I find that hidden rock or high stump. I did the "pan" & front bumper/grill guard first, then the 4 post canopy, and finally the limb risers. as part of the skid pan job I built a storage box that will hold 2 saws and a couple of 5 gal. buckets (or a can of "mix" and bar oil). That was the the icing on the cake! ;D
Here's a few pics, but I took a ton more if anyone is interested.

  
most of the framework
  
"stock" step & fuel tank
  
Finished new step and tank guard
  
The best part
  finished , still in primer, but with scratches :D

John Mc

Looks like some great work there. 

I don't think my tractor looked that clean on the day it was delivered from the dealer.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

tantoy

Nice fab work 711, and nice tractor too!
1968 Garrett 20 Skidder
1991 Ford 1920 Tractor/Loader
2000 Takeuchi tb135 Excavator
Stihl 020, 041 Super, 084
Husqvarna 61, 181SE, 357XP

WildlandFirefighter912

GR does work on our dozers at work with the cages.


BUT I think CAT is now doing our forestry mods...will be operating a new D6 soon...YAYYYYY

DeerMeadowFarm

Reviving an old thread because there is some good info here, plus I have some updates.
I added guards to my directional/flashers last year after I knocked them off a couple of times:


 


 

Over the holiday break I built some guards for my taillights as well (since I broke one of them...  ::) )


 


 

thecfarm

I think I said it before. Those things should be outlawed. Or as soon as you get the tractor,go around with a hammer and break them all off. That way you won't be knocking them things off.  ;D Headlights I need,but not a blinker.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

DeerMeadowFarm

Quote from: thecfarm on January 03, 2017, 06:47:37 PM
I think I said it before. Those things should be outlawed. Or as soon as you get the tractor,go around with a hammer and break them all off. That way you won't be knocking them things off.  ;D Headlights I need,but not a blinker.
I hear ya Ray, but to access part of my woodlot I need to get in from another road. I also do hay on fields other than my own. Road driving with the tractor kind of requires it...

Ed_K

 I bought some magnetic blinker lights for the rear of the tractor after knocking off the ones that came with it  :( .Soon as I'm off the main rd their off and put in the pickup  ;D .
Ed K

thecfarm

I know about the blinker thing when I needed. I have roaded mine a few times,glad I don't have to now. In my case I would have to have ½ steel around mine. I have a blinker/tail light now that is just about hanging. I somehow got it behind a 4 inch maple. I cut it down to prevent any more damage.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

711ac


thecfarm

One was all ready taken care of. No further use of a hammer is needed.  ::) :o   :D
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

kensfarm

A lot of the off-roaders use hog panel sheets.. cutter board material..  light weight and you can form it w/ heat.  The rock crawlers like it cause it slides good.. tuff stuff. 

 

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