Pics of my Kiln in Progress

Glenn1 · January 31, 2015, 06:30:57 PM

I am finally wrapping up the final details on my Nyle L53 Kiln. I used 2 x 6" for the wall studs over an insulated slab. I used R19 batting between the studs. Then added 2" of blue foam, 1" of aluminum covered foam, and finally 1/2" of CDX plywood. The ceiling was trusses with batting, then the same two foams and the CDX Plywood. I'll be making a rail system to guide the cart in and out of the kiln.

Baron · January 31, 2015, 06:42:08 PM

Glenn1,
Why did you choose the L53 over a solar Kiln?
Baron

Glenn1 · January 31, 2015, 08:39:25 PM

I've got way to many trees on my property and would only get 3-4 hours of sunlight at best. Plus, I'd like to be able to turn out kd lumber every 7-10 days (after air drying).

Glenn

dean herring · January 31, 2015, 09:11:44 PM

Hey Glenn, I like your kiln. Keep the pics coming. Did you put plywood over the blue stryofoam to protect it from being damaged when loading.

Baron · January 31, 2015, 09:17:53 PM

I'm trying to decide which way to go and I wish I could use the L53 in addition to or attached to a solar kiln.
Yes, keep the pics coming. It's looking fun.

Glenn1 · January 31, 2015, 09:23:08 PM

On top of the blue 2" foam, I will put 1" of Dow Thermax which has an aluminum face. Then 6 mil of plastic as a vapor barrier and finally 1/2" of outdoor plywood. I am using stainless steel screws to limit any rust problems in the future and then use an aluminum roofing compound to completely cover the plywood.

Glenn

WDH · January 31, 2015, 11:47:42 PM

Glenn,

Looks like that you are doing an excellent job.

YellowHammer · January 31, 2015, 11:52:18 PM

Good looking build, won't be long now.
YH

Glenn1 · February 01, 2015, 08:56:37 AM

Thanks guys. It is taking longer than I anticipated with some backorders slowing the process. Also the weather has me behind schedule a bit but I hope to have it running by mid March. I've got one door finished and the second one should be finished today. I have 4 -12" hinges for each door and I need every inch of the hinge as these doors are heavy!

Glenn1 · February 07, 2015, 09:31:09 PM

Here are a couple more photos of my L53. So far, there is 6 inching of batting between the studs, then 2" of Dow Insulation Board, and now 1" of Dow Thermax. Next will be the 6 mil vapor barrier, and the 1/2" CDX. The final treatment will be an aluminum roofing coating to handle the heat. Also 1 1/2 doors are now finished.

Peter Drouin · February 07, 2015, 10:04:25 PM

Roof coating on the inside? Wont that make a mess.

Glenn1 · February 07, 2015, 10:30:58 PM

I've been told from very good authorities that I will need to use aluminum mobile home roof paint to coat the plywood. I guess will just have to be careful. :D

Baron · February 07, 2015, 10:47:07 PM

I know this has got to be a dumb question but why waste the money on the plywood since your not going to touch the walls with anything. I've seen kiln with sprayed in foam and they don't cover the foam up. Seems to me that adding plywood begs moisture problems.
Baron

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · February 07, 2015, 11:41:37 PM

I encourage you to skip the coating. You will create an envelop effect where any water that gets into the plywood cannot get out...plastic vapor barrier on one side and the coating on the other. Decay expected and other fungi.

You are also doing the same thing with the foil insulation...a double vapor barrier. If using poly, then perforate the aluminum.

dean herring · February 08, 2015, 07:29:53 AM

Looks real good. I'm no expert by no means but I agree with Gene 2 vapor barriers could be a problem.I looks like you have done a good job fitting every thing and sealing the joints. I also think I would skip the roof coating. I used some once on a mobile home roof and I think it never gets hard. Kiln temps. might make it slide off the walls and roof. That would not be be good. JMHO. Keep the pics coming. Dean 3D Lumber

WDH · February 08, 2015, 08:06:01 AM

The aluminum roofing paint works fine. No issues with heat. A little messy to put on, but dries. The Nyle kiln plan for the L53 calls for the final coat of aluminum paint.

wills swamp · February 08, 2015, 09:27:11 AM

x2

Glenn1 · February 08, 2015, 09:32:27 AM

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on February 07, 2015, 11:41:37 PM
I encourage you to skip the coating. You will create an envelop effect where any water that gets into the plywood cannot get out...plastic vapor barrier on one side and the coating on the other. Decay expected and other fungi.

You are also doing the same thing with the foil insulation...a double vapor barrier. If using poly, then perforate the aluminum.

Since the Thermax has an aluminum backing on both sides, can I skip the vapor barrier?
Glenn

dean herring · February 08, 2015, 10:12:22 AM

Are we talking about aluminum paint or roof coating? There is a big difference . Imo paint could breathe better than roof coating.

WDH · February 08, 2015, 07:58:16 PM

Glenn,

No. Put the vapor barrier (poly) over the foil backed insulation, then add the pressure treated plywood, then the aluminum roofing paint.

dean herring · February 15, 2015, 09:10:28 AM

Just wondering if you have your kiln finished. If so send some pics.

Glenn1 · February 15, 2015, 07:27:16 PM

I'm getting closer. The 1/2 CDX has been installed and I need to put up 2x4 around the inside of the kiln to work with the baffles. The doors are on but I still need to put the aluminum siding on the front of the kiln.

I have been working on a separate control booth that houses the Nyle controls. I will be putting aluminum siding on it too to make sure that it is waterproof (using spray foam in any gaps for added security. Also, there is a waterproof foam strip that fits just inside the door on all sides to keep it water tight.

I'll try to post pictures later this week.

Glenn