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Chainsaw disassemble tools

Started by ohiowoodchuck, January 20, 2015, 06:18:13 PM

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ohiowoodchuck

Wondering if anyone has made there own. I don't think the case splitter would be a hard one. Just wondering how you would remove the crank and install.
Education is the best defense against the media.

so il logger

I've used a rubber mallet several times. Not the exact right tool ;D But ive gotten by with it. Just light taps to remove and then oil the bearing surface on crank and tap it back home.`

Jim H

I made a copy of the Husqvarna case splitting tool. It pushes on the end of the crank so separating the crank from the case halves isn't an issue.
2008 LT40HDG28, autoclutch, debarker, stihl 026, 046, ms460 bow, 066, JD 2350 4wd w/245 loader, sawing since '94 fulltime since '98

ohiowoodchuck

Education is the best defense against the media.

sawguy21

It should. I never had a good set of saw tools, cheap bosses, but made do with what I had or could make. I fabbed a case splitter from an old c-clamp and some scraps, it worked reasonably well but with my limited welding skills needed frequent repair. Good thing I didn't need it often. ;D I cut down and rolled a junk micro fiche card into a tube and stuck it in crank seals to slide them on without damage. Screw type hose clamps worked as a ring compressor although a little cumbersome.
The cam from a junked flywheel was invaluable for setting the points on Stihl (Bosch) ignitions.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Jim H

2008 LT40HDG28, autoclutch, debarker, stihl 026, 046, ms460 bow, 066, JD 2350 4wd w/245 loader, sawing since '94 fulltime since '98

ohiowoodchuck

Another question is how is a guy to re assemble the saw. I understand I can put the cases in a oven and warm them up to say 400 degrees, put the bearings in the freezer and in theory the bearings should fall into the case. How is a person suppose to go about getting the crank back into the bearings. I got a nice little oven I use for pressing on cam gears on camshafts that should work good for this. I just bought another ms460 with a broken rod end. I really don't want to pay the dealer a couple hours of labor to replace the crank, it would defeat the purpose of my cheap little saw build.
Education is the best defense against the media.

weimedog

400 is a bit much. Would suggest staying under 300 degrees... I avoid going over 250 actually if I can help it. Especially if you have bearings with the nylon cages. And it also depends on the saw. Its the temperature differential that matters when assembling the crank/bearings into the cases. I shoot for a 230 degree differential on my 372's. Sometimes it takes a little more, sometimes less. Had one where I had to get the cases to 300 degrees ( 270 degree differential as the bearings were 30 degrees) for it to release and let the bearings drop in. Had one where for chits and grins used my wood stove! It was like 10 degrees out. Maybe less. Put the case on the stove top and let it get to a temp somewhat over 200 degrees, the bearings at close to zero degrees went right in. Might have been a 210 degree difference. In this case I had to "tap" a little to get things together. Another 20 degrees and it would have dropped right together. Bottom line is its that ball park of differentials you have to work with, and it will vary from saw to saw as well.

As for disassembly? Love the Husqvarna case splitting tool. But there certainly other options! Many ways to skin a cat.

Breaking Down Cases..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CFO_qfGdNc
Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

so il logger

It's really not that difficult...just sayin. My saws make my family's living so I depend on them. Just take your time and dont worry about the oven.

joe_indi

It is not really necessary to heat the crankcase or freeze the bearing. Even the Stihl workshop manuals say it. All you need is to tap in the bearings into their seats
Quote : If it is not possible to heat the
clutch side of the crankcase, use
press arbor (1) 1118 893 7200 to
press home the ball bearing as
far as stop. Unquote.

Since I dont possess press arbor  1118 893 7200 I make do with a hammer.  smiley_smash

I do possess the Stihl removal and assembly tools but found the Husky removal tool faster and easier to use. For reassembly I found its easier without any special tools. After tapping in the bearing into its seat on the flywheel side of the crankcase, the same is done to the clutch side, very important, with the oil pump in place (to limit the clutch side bearing.
Next I use a nylon head hammer to tap the oiled crankshaft into the flywheel side of the crankcase. The clutch side is inserted onto the open end of the crankshaft. When inserted in level, the crankcase goes right down to a point that all crankcase screws can be turned down about a turn. I fit the flywheel nut flush with the crankshaft end on the flywheel side. I then alternate between gradually tuning in the screws a little at a time (which causes the crankshaft to tighten on the bearings) and tapping the flywheel side of the crankshaft with a hammer (which loosens the crankshaft for free rotation).This continues till both sides have been tightened down.The two steady pins are tapped to their position. I then use a hacksaw blade on either side of the crankshaft to ensure the crankshaft is in the center of the crankcase.
Once this is done, I rotate the oil pump worm on its seat. If everything is in alignment the worm will rotate uniformly without any tight spots. If there are any tight spots, the crankshaft and bearings are realigned till the worm rotates uniformly. This is very important.
Joe

ohiowoodchuck

Thanks for the info men. I still might make some tools in my spare time. There's a mill and a lathe at work, that I make stuff with all the time. Wouldn't take no time to work something up.
Education is the best defense against the media.

so il logger

Lucky guy to have access to them machines. I fully agree with you on making something to make it easier. Post pics when you get'em made ;D

ohiowoodchuck

I'll get after it when the 460 I bought comes in the mail, that way I can measure what the thread size and pitch is on the crankshaft.
Education is the best defense against the media.

Andy171361

 Well I have just had to split the crank case of my Stihl 038.   Here is my DIY solution...




  

  

  

 


I bought two 6 inch g clamps, ground the ends to fit with my angle grinder and used a small piece of angle iron to bridge the gap between the 2 clamp screws and the clutch end of the crank shaft.  I had to do a bit of "fettling" to smooth the edges of the g clamps and make sure they were not impacting the crank case in the wrong places and I also took time to make sure that the twos screws of the clamps were nicely aligned wth the crankshaft.

After that it was simple.... Until I discovered that I had missed one of the crank case screws (which was fitted under the felling spikes!).  But the crank case itself came apart easily.  Total cost was £13 against the cost of the Husqvarna tool which is £65 in the UK.. Plus a little time and some effort.


sawguy21

old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Andy171361

Thank you!  Actually the biggest problem I had was just holding the crankcase steady while I worked on it, so my solution to that was...




 



... a piece of scrap metal which started life as a part of the window winding mechanism of a Saab 99.  Drill a couple of holes for the bar bolts to go through and the result is a nicely secured chainsaw.  The vice rotates so I can adjust it in two directions.   (The crankcase is upside down in this photo.)

I know the official Stihl stand can be tilted forward and back too, but I have not worked out how to achieve that yet.

And finally my next tool modification is going to be a complete emptying and cleaning of my work bench which is a complete disgrace at the moment!!

sawguy21

old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

LeeB

Nah, your bench is good. You can still see some of the top of it. My bench is about a foot deep on most of. More in some spots. My neighbor who usually sticks up for me with Lindy actually told her he would volunteer to help me clean up the shop.  ::)
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Andy171361

LeeB you are too kind.

Maybe your neighbour would fly over to England and tidy my bench for me?  The trouble is that whenever somebody (usually my wife) tidies up for me, I can never find anything again.  On second thoughts I had better do it myself.  I'll post a photo of the bench when it is clear!

Cheers
Andy

JohnG28

Unfortunately my mess has got to the point that I can't fins anything on the bench or anywhere else! I need some organization bad but haven't had anywhere near the time lately.  :-\ Hoping spring brings some warmer weather and motivation as well as some more time!
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

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