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drying slab lumber

Started by addysdaddy, January 20, 2015, 01:08:14 PM

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addysdaddy

I'm in the process of building a new sawmill shed and looking at different options... It will only be 20 x 24 due to space limits and i was looking at building a "drying room" to air dry slabs aproximately 8 x 8 in one corner... My main question is can 2" plus slabs be dried standing vertically or do they have to be laid down and stickered. What about 2" x 18" x 8' boards. I'm thinking vertical would be easier to place and get to later on without having to re-stack every time i wanted a slab off the bottom? Planning on putting numerous vents in the sides of the room to allow for lots of air flow... Looking for opinions from the folks who have already tried all the ideas i'm just starting to think of so i don't waste my time...LOL
Trying to think of something Cool to say kinda defeats the purpose.
LT10
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hacknchop

 :DMy suggestion would be to stack and sticker well, allowing the slabs to dry nice and straidht, then once dry stand them on end and they should stay nice and straight and easy to get at,I have had nothing but  warp standing green lumber of any sort on end.That just my opinion worth every cent you paid for it.. :D.
Often wrong never indoubt

WDH

I have had poor luck drying slabs standing vertically.  They warp and crack.  Too much air and too fast drying.  Stickering them slows down the drying and yields a better slab for me.  Cover the top layer of slabs with another layer of stickered lumber to protect the slabs from drying too fast. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

logboy

If you stand slabs up against a wall to dry you will end up with prime grade rocking chair stock. Everything I cut gets stickered and stacked in an open sided barn with decent airflow. It also gets weight put on top or the top slabs curl up like bananas.  Slabs are not lumber.




I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

WDH

Those are some fine slabs, logboy.  Very professionally done. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

logboy

Quote from: WDH on January 25, 2015, 07:34:33 AM
Those are some fine slabs, logboy.  Very professionally done.

Thanks. I just finished cutting up this big maple last night. It surprised me.

It cut quite well and only took two chains for the whole log.  A lot of it was figured and spalted. Compare this to the last hard maple where I only got two slabs per chain.


I've made a few mistakes over the years and created some very expensive firewood. It took a while to get a method to the madness and develop some techniques that work. Part of that was to stop treating slabs like lumber, and realize they have their own special needs that must be attended to in order to get a quality salable product. Slabs are unforgiving, and if you screw them up you just set yourself back months or even years. If I stain or warp some lumber I still might be able to get barn boards or something out of it. Nobody wants a 4' wide maple slab that is cracked apart and curved like a banana.

I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

addysdaddy

 8)That's a nice pile of slabs there... Looks like i'll have to re-think timing and not rush this process... Looks like a shed for the mill and another one for slabs... and a small PINEY kiln for the small stuff... Good thing I haven't retired yet LOL :D
Trying to think of something Cool to say kinda defeats the purpose.
LT10
Kioti with winch.
Husqvarna fan

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