Silly Questions

4x4American · January 14, 2015, 09:39:29 PM

Why do people say that a WM head don't gotta be level to the bed to cut accurate lumber? (And I don't mean accurate by eye...! :

) It just doesn't click with me.

Anybody else feel free to ask silly questions in this thread, I figured someone had to start one.

drobertson · January 14, 2015, 09:47:59 PM

Well,
why do you ask such a silly question, seeing that that is such a silly question? ;D
I mean, someone that would ask that must be pretty silly, or, just plain misinformed on what they are asking.
My way of thinking is why do I keep on doing dumb stuff when I'm supposed to learn after doing dumb stuff not to do dumb stuff anymore ;D

Evergreen Man · January 14, 2015, 09:51:45 PM

According to my manual (that I just finished reading a couple days ago) the away side of the blade should sit a 16th higher than the drive side because when you make a wide cut the blade will drop on that side. But they still think you should be within a 16th of that

mikeb1079 · January 14, 2015, 09:55:28 PM

QuoteWhy do people say that a WM head don't gotta be level to the bed to cut accurate lumber?

thinking maybe this is a reference to the cantilevered head spec about the idler side being 1/8" higher than the inboard side? my hunch is that this is due to the slight "pull" of the teeth while in the cut resulting in an small drop of the outboard (cantilevered) side? correct me if i'm wrong someone....

oh wait, this was supposed to be sillly questions....hmmm....has anyone ever tried "curried goat?" :D :D

POSTON WIDEHEAD · January 14, 2015, 10:18:12 PM

Y'all are wasting space IMO.

4x4American · January 14, 2015, 10:21:56 PM

Silly me, I asked a silly question in a silly way. What I meant to ask, is why doesn't the frame have to be leveled side to side to saw accurate lumber? They put some crude jacks on the WM instead of fine adjust ones, meaning that it don't have to be finely adjusted to saw accurate lumber. Curious why that is, just don't seem right that the frame can be all cattywampus and saw straight lumber.

I was told that when you level the band to the bed you have the idle side set 1/8" higher than drive side to account for the inertial effect of the band. That was on a lt40 super.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · January 14, 2015, 10:23:56 PM

Your presentation is a whole lot better this time.

4x4American · January 14, 2015, 10:27:20 PM

Must be if a goat can understand it! ;D

4x4American · January 14, 2015, 10:28:18 PM

Quote from: drobertson on January 14, 2015, 09:47:59 PM
Well,
why do you ask such a silly question, seeing that that is such a silly question? ;D
I mean, someone that would ask that must be pretty silly, or, just plain misinformed on what they are asking.
My way of thinking is why do I keep on doing dumb stuff when I'm supposed to learn after doing dumb stuff not to do dumb stuff anymore ;D

I've been asking silly questions all my life 8)
and i dont regret it ;D

POSTON WIDEHEAD · January 14, 2015, 10:29:23 PM

You're COOL!

4x4American · January 14, 2015, 10:34:57 PM

Foxtrapper · January 14, 2015, 11:06:53 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on January 14, 2015, 10:21:56 PM
Silly me, I asked a silly question in a silly way. What I meant to ask, is why doesn't the frame have to be leveled side to side to saw accurate lumber? They put some crude jacks on the WM instead of fine adjust ones, meaning that it don't have to be finely adjusted to saw accurate lumber. Curious why that is, just don't seem right that the frame can be all cattywampus and saw straight lumber.

I was told that when you level the band to the bed you have the idle side set 1/8" higher than drive side to account for the inertial effect of the band. That was on a lt40 super.

Not sure I can answer this silly question, but i'll try anyways. The mill doesn't need to be leveled side to side because the head only travels on one rail. Unlike a four post head that travels on both rails, so it needs to be level side to side to get accurate cuts.. ;D

Chuck White · January 15, 2015, 07:20:19 AM

The LT40 doesn't need to be level to saw good lumber, just close.

The outriggers need to be snug in order to support the mill and keep it from moving around as the sawhead moves back and forth.

The "Idle Side" of the blade needs to be set 1/16" higher than the "Drive Side", it's all spelled out in the Owner/Operators manual "setup & alignment" section.

Magicman · January 15, 2015, 07:53:15 AM

Proper sawmill alignment and setup is not silly and "brand" does not matter. Proper setup is essential for log handling as well as safety. The only thing silly here is the question.

Ga Mtn Man · January 15, 2015, 07:54:08 AM

A four-post mill doesn't need to be level either, just flat.

4x4American · January 15, 2015, 08:52:12 AM

Quote from: Foxtrapper on January 14, 2015, 11:06:53 PM
Quote from: 4x4American on January 14, 2015, 10:21:56 PM
Silly me, I asked a silly question in a silly way. What I meant to ask, is why doesn't the frame have to be leveled side to side to saw accurate lumber? They put some crude jacks on the WM instead of fine adjust ones, meaning that it don't have to be finely adjusted to saw accurate lumber. Curious why that is, just don't seem right that the frame can be all cattywampus and saw straight lumber.

I was told that when you level the band to the bed you have the idle side set 1/8" higher than drive side to account for the inertial effect of the band. That was on a lt40 super.

Not sure I can answer this silly question, but i'll try anyways. The mill doesn't need to be leveled side to side because the head only travels on one rail. Unlike a four post head that travels on both rails, so it needs to be level side to side to get accurate cuts.. ;D

Say the idle side is lower by a bit, wouldn't the head be higher than it's 1/8" spec on the idle side then?

4x4American · January 15, 2015, 08:53:15 AM

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on January 15, 2015, 07:54:08 AM
A four-post mill doesn't need to be level either, just flat.

Right you are, I only level it because that's the fastest way we have to make sure it is prit near flat.

Sawyer697 · January 15, 2015, 08:54:50 AM

I went and brought a 2" bubble that is mounted to the frame up front, out of the way. Then when I set up I like to have the round bubble pretty well centered. :

4x4American · January 15, 2015, 08:58:57 AM

Quote from: Magicman on January 15, 2015, 07:53:15 AM
Proper sawmill alignment and setup is not silly and "brand" does not matter. Proper setup is essential for log handling as well as safety. The only thing silly here is the question.

That's why I called it the silly question thread ;)
Someone had to do it...

4x4American · January 15, 2015, 09:00:14 AM

Quote from: Sawyer697 on January 15, 2015, 08:54:50 AM
I went and brought a 2" bubble that is mounted to the frame up front, out of the way. Then when I set up I like to have the round bubble pretty well centered. :

ok. so would a mizer fare better on uneven ground then, because of the cantilevered head?

terrifictimbersllc · January 15, 2015, 09:06:46 AM

Quote from: mikeb1079 on January 14, 2015, 09:55:28 PM
Quote
oh wait, this was supposed to be sillly questions....hmmm....has anyone ever tried "curried goat?" :D :D

I have, it was good, tasted mostly like curry.

AnthonyW · January 15, 2015, 09:17:17 AM

My assumption is the WM frame is rigid enough that even if the mill was not perfectly level the lumber would still come out square and the head would still travel (close to) as if it were level. I can't imagine trying to perch the mill on such unlevel ground that slope would effect the sawmill's alignment. The issue I see with the mill not being level stems from the ability and ease to load logs and run the mill. Without the FOA I can't get my mill perfectly level unless I'm set up in a flat parking lot. With the holes in the legs being ~1 1/2" apart, I cut a PT 2x6 into 6" squares then cut in half to make 3/4"x6" squares to take up some of the slope when a leg doesn't quite reach the ground in one hole and too far in the next. Given that I have an all manual mill, my priority when leveling the mill is to have the tongue lower than the rear to make returning the head easier, and to have the mill tipped towards the mast to help keep the logs against the backstops and on the mill. So if given the option, the front passenger side of my mill is setup as the lowest point.

P.S. I'm not talking way unlevel, less than 1/4 bubble out of the lines based on a cheap HF two-way magnetic level.

4x4American · January 15, 2015, 09:20:07 AM

Thanks Anthony, that was some good thought food.

lirachamo51 · January 15, 2015, 09:43:50 PM

hi 4x4 and others ...
i am "lirachamo's" wife (ps lirachamo is initials of us and our daughters...see I'm silly but clever too)( Liz)!
i just wanted to say...i followed this thread and I thought your question was a VERY good LOGICAL question! The only silly question is when you don't ask what other SILLY people wonder BUT...won't ask!
I learned a lot...thanks for asking!
This is a great site...I'm very impressed that all these busy experienced sawyers take the time to help others!
Hat's off to this forum and a big thanks to all of you who take the time to share your experience and wisdom!
Liz

Dave Shepard · January 15, 2015, 09:48:25 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on January 14, 2015, 10:21:56 PM
Silly me, I asked a silly question in a silly way. What I meant to ask, is why doesn't the frame have to be leveled side to side to saw accurate lumber? They put some crude jacks on the WM instead of fine adjust ones, meaning that it don't have to be finely adjusted to saw accurate lumber. Curious why that is, just don't seem right that the frame can be all cattywampus and saw straight lumber.

I was told that when you level the band to the bed you have the idle side set 1/8" higher than drive side to account for the inertial effect of the band. That was on a lt40 super.

The Wood-Mizer mill is referenced off of the big square tube. It is a very rigid construction, and it would take an awful lot to distort it. Other mills with two rails are subject to the torsion that can be created by having each end in a different plane. Have you ever pushed down on the front corner of a long gooseneck trailer? They are like a piece of cooked spaghetti, even though they have a pair of big beams running down the middle. As long as a twin rail design is supported well at the corners, it is not a problem.