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Don't know if this has been asked. Circle Blade Marks?

Started by POSTON WIDEHEAD, January 14, 2015, 08:41:04 PM

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POSTON WIDEHEAD

Any way of taking band mill lumber and taking a circle blade (and safely) making circle mill blade marks on it.
I'm not talking about doing it in huge quantities but maybe a table package of lumber and doing it.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Seaman

Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

beenthere

Sure, just drag them boards along the side of that shed above the thick red oak bench, and you should get circle saw marks.   ;D

Or take the blade down, power it up with something and then drag the boards by. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: beenthere on January 14, 2015, 08:53:20 PM
Sure, just drag them boards along the side of that shed above the thick red oak bench, and you should get circle saw marks.   ;D

:D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

red oaks lumber

send them my way,i designed and built a machine to do that very step :)
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: red oaks lumber on January 14, 2015, 09:00:29 PM
send them my way,i designed and built a machine to do that very step :)

Bring it down here when you come to Georgia and pick it up the next year.  :D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

red oaks lumber

the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

willmyers0169

I was told by another sawyer you can bend a tooth on your bandmill and it will resemble a circle mill. I haven't tried it yet because I haven't had it requested.  that's how he found out, he had cut some lumber for a guy with the circle mill, sold the mill, customer came back and wasn't happy with the bandmill lumber because it didn't match the other. bent the tooth and the customer was happy.
Machinist, WM LT15 230 JD skidsteer 2010 JD 2955 JD Jonsered chainsaw

Nomad

Quote from: willmyers0169 on January 15, 2015, 12:27:44 AM
I was told by another sawyer you can bend a tooth on your bandmill and it will resemble a circle mill. I haven't tried it yet because I haven't had it requested.  that's how he found out, he had cut some lumber for a guy with the circle mill, sold the mill, customer came back and wasn't happy with the bandmill lumber because it didn't match the other. bent the tooth and the customer was happy.

     That doesn't work; it still leaves straight lines, not curves. 

     David, got anybody near you with a swingblade?  He could do it for you without much trouble.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

bandmiller2

You can imitate but never duplicate. The LL Bean stores use old circle cut for floors, the sawyer is paid well for poor saw maintenance. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ellmoe

 I've run boards upright through a table saw to put the circle marks on them. Not as heavy as a heavy as a head saw, but the customer was pleased.
Mark
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

dutchman

Just a thought.
Use a hand grinder, the larger the diameter the better.
Hold or set the grinder off // to make the "saw" marks.
Could try sandpaper, grinding wheel, or carving wheel for different finishes.
Swing the grinder across the board for curved effect.
If you get good results, you could make a jig to swing the grinder.

red oaks lumber

if i get a chance i'll take some pics today. not trying to brag but, my machine nails the look very very close, i had people tell me "no way" that was produced from anything other than a big circle mill.
back in 2007 i spent some money on "r &d" building a machine to replicate the look ,well the economy tanked and that product was kinda put on hold. fast forward to late 2014 and we decided to push this product again. as of right now we have commitements ffor over 50,000 sq.ft. of this look so, we hired a design and build company to make a faster safer more  reliable machine. i set the budget at 10 grand.so  its a wait and see right now :)
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

Gasawyer

I use a Lucas to do that effect to some gorgeous walnut for a customer that builds tables. Good luck!
Woodmizer LT-40hdd super hyd.,Lucas 618,Lucas 823dsm,Alaskian chainsaw mill 6',many chainsaws large and small,NH L555 skidsteer, Int. TD-9,JD500 backhoe, and International grapple truck.

beenthere

Maybe find an old floor waxing machine or one of the floor sanding machines that have the large circular head and modify the head with some heavy spring-steel teeth (like from a hay rake)... rough idea but something on that order.
But still, get the blade off the shed siding and jury rig something to rotate it so can drag the boards over it with a jagged tooth arranged.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Dave Shepard

For ten grand you could buy a hand set circle mill and just mill the stuff. Are you taking bandmilled lumber and resurfacing it, or are you just pulling all our legs? :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Reddog

An idea, untested  :D

20" Floor buffer mounted to a table with a fence and a auto feed. Angle it slightly so that only the side pushing into the fence is hitting/leaving marks.

36 grit disk should make it look quite rough.

logboy

It would be easy to do on a Lucas swingblade. All it takes is a turn of one bolt to detune the blade alignment to leave blade marks.
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

WmFritz

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on January 14, 2015, 08:41:04 PM
Any way of taking band mill lumber and taking a circle blade (and safely) making circle mill blade marks on it.
I'm not talking about doing it in huge quantities but maybe a table package of lumber and doing it.



Can't you rub yer  horns around on them a bit?   :)
~Bill

2012 Homebuilt Bandmill
1959 Detroit built Ferguson TO35

red oaks lumber

dave
yes i'm putting circle blade marks back on already planed lumber :) hum your thinking, alittle clue to make it look athentic i use a 30" dia. blade. say_what
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

Raym

I am definitely interested in this thread. Here is what I am currently doing. I take dressed lumber and use a stiff wire on a hand held grinder to rough up the surface. It takes getting a feel for it but as you can see you do get some circle marks and it really pulls out the soft grain of oak. I then use a concoction of vinegar with steel wool dissolved which instantly ages the wood. I get requests for a lot of mirror frames and also here are some bathroom vanities I made for a customer. Oh, notice the soap dispenser that has the same effect applied to it.


 

 

'14-LT40 super, nyle l200m kiln, vintage case 480E loader.

It's not the fool that askith, it's the fool that agreeith.

slider

If you take Beenthere's advice and use that blade on the barn please get a ladder.Don't try to stand on that oil soaked bench.We wouldn't want anything bad to happen to out mascot.
al glenn

POSTON WIDEHEAD

You're right, I might de-horn and de- ? myself. Blades are dangerous!  :D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

logboy

Quote from: Raym on January 15, 2015, 01:21:48 PM
I then use a concoction of vinegar with steel wool dissolved which instantly ages the wood.

Whats the ratio and how do you apply it?
I like Lucas Mills and big wood.  www.logboy.com

FarmingSawyer

How's about a 12" brush blade on a weed eater? Drag it backwards over the boards at a slight angle and every once and a while add some down pressure and let it bite in....
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: FarmingSawyer on January 15, 2015, 05:17:41 PM
How's about a 12" brush blade on a weed eater? Drag it backwards over the boards at a slight angle and every once and a while add some down pressure and let it bite in....

Now this is a thought!  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

VTwoodworker

It would help to know how wide the boards are that you want to treat.  Wide boards really show the curvature and the diameter of the saw that was used to cut the lumber.  The bent tooth idea on a bandmill could approximate the circle curf marks if the cant was narrow enough to place it diagonally across the mill.  It would take some creative clamping of the cant but it would leave diagonal cut marks instead of vertical ones.  On narrow boards it would be close. 

I think that a large disk sander with coarse grit and a jig could leave marks that would approximate the circle curf marks.  A 36" diameter wooden disk mounted on an arbor could be used.  But that sounds like a lot of work for stock for one table.

beenthere

Seems to be just a bit authentic that you would need a large diam circle, i.e. at least 36" diam.

Like any small diam. blade would leave some pretty unreal circle blade marks in the real world.

But then maybe two "unreals" make it "real".  ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

FarmingSawyer

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on January 15, 2015, 05:25:28 PM
Quote from: FarmingSawyer on January 15, 2015, 05:17:41 PM
How's about a 12" brush blade on a weed eater? Drag it backwards over the boards at a slight angle and every once and a while add some down pressure and let it bite in....

Now this is a thought!  :)

I guess my time spent working the green chain standing by the headsaw watching it pattern the cant wasn't completely wasted.  ;D
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

beenthere

QuoteI guess my time spent working the green chain standing by the headsaw watching it pattern the cant wasn't completely wasted.

Was it a 12" diam headsaw?   ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

POSTON WIDEHEAD

The boards I would be doing would be no more than 8 inches wide. Just enough for a farm table.
I would saw all my legs to shape, saw the frame, 2 bread boards and the table top.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

FarmingSawyer

Quote from: beenthere on January 15, 2015, 06:19:38 PM
QuoteI guess my time spent working the green chain standing by the headsaw watching it pattern the cant wasn't completely wasted.

Was it a 12" diam headsaw?   ;D

:D

There was a distinctive slap to this mill as the carriage moved back for the next cut which left a certain other mark on the cant. Not that the blade wobbled or anything, just that the carriage moved in such a way that there was a drag effect as the log moved back for the next cut. You could tell which side of a board was which....I lived in a cabin lined with clear 1x12 cedar t&g rough side out. I loved the look and the saw marks. Sawyer's Daugther, now my EX, couldn't stand it as it held onto the cobwebs....

Sometimes the distinctive saw pattern, on air dried lumber--especially pine, was ghosted through so even after planing you could see faint saw circles on the boards.


Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on January 15, 2015, 06:30:45 PM
The boards I would be doing would be no more than 8 inches wide.
So a 12" wide blade on an 8" board would be like a 52" wheel on a 20" cant...... sounds about right for the Doug fir we were cutting.....
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

red oaks lumber

small blade looks awful,you need a large diameter blade to give you a bigger arch. trust me i tried alot of differant sizes :)
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

jamesamd

A power hand planer,mounted on a circle cutter of the arc size You want.Bury one cutter and grind away most of the other cutters cutting edge,
leaving the tooth profile that pleases Your eye.I would leave the outside of the arc square and taper the trailing part l/ like a handsaw blade.

Probably get 10 or 15 cuts per pass.You probably should get a Human to do the grinding for Ya,cloven hooves don't do to well with detail work.

Jim
All that is gold does not glitter,not all those that wander are lost.....

ely

That mirror woodwork looks nice...and here I've spent years trying to smooth up my wood.
I'm not certain a big circle blade on a weed Wacker is anywhere close to the realm of safety.

ohwc

Just an observation. But why put so much effort into it instead of just taking a cant to a guy with a circle mill. Seems it would be a better more productive way to go.

Brad_S.

"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." J. Lennon

beenthere

FarmingSawyer
QuoteSo a 12" wide blade on an 8" board would be like a 52" wheel on a 20" cant....

Somehow, a 52" blade that has teeth on the rim making arcs on a board that have a 26" radius looking anything like the teeth on the rim of a 12" diam blade making arcs on a board that have a 6" radius doesn't compute in my brain.
Wouldn't the arc of the tooth marks on the 52" blade be the same on all boards or cants, regardless of their width? 

What am I missing?   
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Dave Shepard

I don't understand why one wouldn't just buy a whack of boards from a circle mill and plane the backside down to a consistent thickness? Pride?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Here is a pic of ROL's lumber he has added the saw marks to.


 
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

beenthere

Quote from: ohwc on January 15, 2015, 08:17:13 PM
Just an observation. But why put so much effort into it instead of just taking a cant to a guy with a circle mill. Seems it would be a better more productive way to go.

If the customer wants the circle saw marks in a finished board(s) that have been dried and S4S, and then maybe milled to a pattern (moulding, or paneling), then have to add those marks because all the prior processing will have removed the marks made when the wood was green or first sawn. Just a thought as i see it.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

POSTON WIDEHEAD

What started all this is I have had customers actually old lumber to me that was in Grand-paws house that did not have the circles on it. They asked me if I knew a way to put the circles on there.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Dave Shepard

A Daniels planer would do it. A lot of early furniture was attributed to being circular sawn, when in fact it had been Daniels planed. Hancock Shaker Village has two of them.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

red oaks lumber

the whole thing is by doing it to finished lumber you have a flat ,true ,consistant product that for me shows our attention to detail. :) yes you can use raw product from a circle mill but,when it dries it usally cups one side or the other which during the moulding process will leave you a product that will not match edge to edge. thats fine for some people but its not acceptable to me . my machine can do 14"wide boards and can run about 2000 b.f. per hour
the experts think i do things wrong
over 18 million b.f. processed and 7341 happy customers i disagree

Dave Shepard

I thought the whole idea of rustic was that it was, well, rustic? :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

FarmingSawyer

Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 15, 2015, 09:32:10 PM
I thought the whole idea of rustic was that it was, well, rustic? :D

As my old sawyer mentor used to say, "there's a fine line between crude and rustic...." usually said when overlooking some of my early furniture attempts.......
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

Raym

Quote from: logboy on January 15, 2015, 03:28:13 PM
Quote from: Raym on January 15, 2015, 01:21:48 PM
I then use a concoction of vinegar with steel wool dissolved which instantly ages the wood.

Whats the ratio and how do you apply it?
it is 3 parts water and 1 part white vinegar. Break up the steel wool and let it soak 24 hours then remove whats left. You will then have to test it on scraps and dilute it with water until you are happy with it. I just brush it on and let it dry. No care needed....easiest finish by far to apply, Best thing is you need not worry about protecting the finished product. The more you bang it into stuff while delivering, the better....
'14-LT40 super, nyle l200m kiln, vintage case 480E loader.

It's not the fool that askith, it's the fool that agreeith.

delvis

This reminds me of one of my daughter's friends showing up at the house with his brand new portable record player.  I said, "Leave it to your generation to be able to carry 10,000 songs around in the palm of your hand, and you want to listen to scratchy old warped records!"

If I never saw another board I will at least die happy having spent the last few years working with my dad!

Dave Shepard

I think there was only one dedicated store left in town that sold CD, and about a year ago they got rid of all of them and now they only sell vinyl.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

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