is smooth operation a real thing?

[RunningRoot]

I was able to find the bolts I needed, grade 8 low profile head-shoulder bolts... they worked out perfect !   

  

  

 

[North River Energy]

Any idea if the yield strength on that there threaded shank is equivalent to, or higher than the YS of the original rivets?
Also, were those rivets tight in their bores even with their heads ground off?

I'm not a boltologist by any stretch (yes, pun), but I'm thinking the shoulder bolt is significantly 'weaker' if the threaded section isn't bottomed out with the 'shoulder' tight up against the threaded element?

Would be a shame if a lock nut came loose and jammed in those shiny new teeth.

On the other hand, I might be worrying for nothing...

[RunningRoot]

The way the ring and pinion is set up in this winch there is not much lateral   pressure..( IMO)

The way I see it the bolts would sheer before breaking due to its lack of tensile strengh..

It may be the angle of the picture but fully torqued the nut has full thread...
These bolts are MUCH harder than the rivets that came out of it...
I tell you this as I personally drilled out each rivet on the press and was really surprised with just how soft they were...

And I am not using lock washers...
I am staking the nuts  to the bolts so I don't have to worry about that...

[ga jones]

Did you get your center pins from Davco too? They have them in stock.

[Oliver05262]

  Nice looking hardware. Are those bolts a tight fit in both the gear and the part they go through? You might want to use some high strength LockTite to help secure things. If there is any looseness, and the gear can move at all, it will have a chance of loosening up, eventually. Probably not going to happen too soon on a winch, but if that was a differential in a drive axle, things can go to heck in a hurry. Rivets are soft so they can deform and fill up a lot of the empty space/misaligned holes and prevent that.
  Sorry you had extra downtime. Good luck on your repair.

[RunningRoot]

Finally got the winch done this evening...
Everything including R&P and clutch bands are adjusted in perfect...
Even painted the ole girl up...
Got to seal up clutch side cover in the mourning and install her back on the C4D and prime everything out...

Any advice on quick techniques as to priming the control, cylinders and lines ???

GA,
Not yet, my local bearing house said they got them at a really fair price, just waiting so I can confirm they're size...
Probably this weekend's project..

[RunningRoot]

So what's the trick to bleeding the brake cylinder and lines ?

I've got the clutch cylinder and line bled good, it's good and solid.
But for the life of me can't get the brake cylinder/line bled out and primed !!!

Any help would be appriciated...
I only have so much more hair left to pull out !

[RunningRoot]

Well I finally got it bled out ,
and figured out why I was having so much trouble to do so...

The piston was hung up in the cylinder on the brake side of the master control , so it wasn't even apply pressure to the line, it had created a slight score on both that was just big enough to stop the piston from returning to the brake position...
I took the brake cylinder assembly off the master control and took some 600 grit sandpaper and smooted out the cylinder bore and the side walls of the piston itself and then polished it up with 2k grit... assembled everything and she bled right out and built good pressure...

The winch is working great !
The free spool is I little hard to pull out right now but I think after I pull it in and out the length of the cable a few times and drag a few hitches, it will seat everything just as it's supposed to be..

[Ohio_Bill]

Congratulations,  job well done . Hope it gives you many years of trouble  free service .

[tantoy]

Good job RR, We sure appreciate your posting and comments. It really helps the next guy down the line that has to fix/repair his #9. Post any pictures of the finished product!