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my first glue up table

Started by yukon cornelius, December 24, 2014, 08:11:15 PM

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yukon cornelius

A guy ask me to make a table for a feed store opening soon. I said I could do it but I wasn't sure of what I had gotten into. I have no thickness planer, jointer, or enough clamps to do the job. I had never built a table like this nor had I seen one built. I dove into it and here is what I ended up with. I am pretty pleased with it! the owner seems to be but he has only see the pictures.

 
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Den-Den

The table looks great.  You did a good job on it, a thickness planer would be nice if you plan to make many of them.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

Magicman

I too have only seen a picture and I see why he seems pleased.   8)
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Swatson

I like it very much.  Did you use a tenon tool or a lathe?  Either way it looks very nice.
I cant figure out which one I like better: working with wood or making the tools to work with wood.

yukon cornelius

I use tennon cutter. lumberjack brand.  Thanks guys!

It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Delawhere Jack

You did a real nice job gluing up the top. With a couple good hand planes and careful glue up, you can make an awful lot of nice pieces without the need for a surface planer.

You can never have too many clamps.  ;)

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Stuff like this makes my mouth water! This is really nice.  :)
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mesquite buckeye

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yukon cornelius

 I used 6 clamps but I think 8 would have been better. I had to borrow ( a very rare thing for me) 3 clamps from a neighbor. to plane it I used my bosch electric 3.5 inch and then belt sanded. and then sanded it down to 320. I think I could have sanded more as when I oiled the top I did find a few belt sander marks left. not to bad though. I left it with a teak oil finish. any thoughts on the oil? I read several opinions on finishes but always end up oiling. I need foolproof ideas as finish is new to me. rub on polys?
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

WDH

A real nice natural looking finish is 100% pure tung oil mixed 50:50 with clear mineral spirits.  Read about it here:

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html?gclid=CMa5ioOY4cICFQ9gMgodi2UAUw
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

LaneC

I am like MM. I can see why he is pleased. That is very nice. What kind of glue did you use? Again, very nice.
Man makes plans and God smiles

yukon cornelius

I used gorilla glue. that's what my neighbor uses. I bought tightbond 2 to use but he swore by gorilla and since I already had some it was worth a shot. I think it worked well. i have 2 braces underneath that the legs are tennoned into.

I have always been to timid to do a glue up in fear it would fall apart. do I worry about moisture content in the future? this slab was cut in july and kept in the shop. moisture was around 12%
.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Larry

Nice looking table and chair set.  Maybe the feed store owner will let you put a little sign close to the table.  Custom made by Yukon.

ERC is oily, so I try to wipe the joint right before glue up with acetone.  I forget half the time will no ill effects noticed.
.
I'm a big fan of Waterlox products.  Last month Fine Woodworking tested a dozen similar finishes that can either be brushed or wiped on.  Min-Wax Fast Dry Poly was rated best tied with another General finish.  As a bonus it was the cheapest and widely available.  I'm going to try it out soon....half the price of Waterlox.

On your sanding try stopping at 180 and see how a sample piece looks after finishing.  Sometimes I don't go past 150.

Merry Christmas!
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

samandothers


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clww

Very nice work that looks great! :)
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jamesamd

Nice work, now Your hooked  ;)

Jim
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drobertson

Looks good to me!  Pictures more often than not don't do justice.  Handmade brings the project to another level in my opinion.. pretty sure this won't be your last,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

hackberry jake

I usually stop around 150 grit or 220 grit. I use poly almost exclusively though and it builds a protective layer on the top of the sanding job. If I were to use an oil finish, I would sand it down further. I can't believe you don't have a thickness planer. After seeing some of the projects you have built without a planer, you are a true craftsman.
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yukon cornelius

Quote from: hackberry jake on January 07, 2015, 08:25:49 PM
I usually stop around 150 grit or 220 grit. I use poly almost exclusively though and it builds a protective layer on the top of the sanding job. If I were to use an oil finish, I would sand it down further. I can't believe you don't have a thickness planer. After seeing some of the projects you have built without a planer, you are a true craftsman.

I just added poly to my finishes this week. I have used a lot of it already. I am using minwax poly. I brushed it on let it soak in and then wipe off any excess and polish with a rag.Then let it dry. if you go to my facebook page I have a lot of other projects I haven't posted here. i really like the finish it leaves. it seems to really fill the pores of the wood better. im not sure about its outdoor life though. how do you think it holds up outdoors?
I don't consider myself a craftsman but a very green beginner. I just build a lot of things since this is our only source of income. I hope to be able to afford a thickness planer this year along a jointer and lots of clamps oh yeah and a big bandsaw, a router table or an extra router to mount on my table saw, a good table saw and a dust collector. oh and more concrete for my shop floor, more tennon cutter sizes, some tools for my lathe and ....and.... ;D I have big plans for this year! one step at a time.

It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

WDH

No, the poly will not hold up outside. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

yukon cornelius

Thanks wdh! that's what I thought. I think I will leave teak oil as my outdoor cedar finish but I am switching all my indoor finish to poly
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

mmartone

Looks fantastic, thanks for sharing a cool project!
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yukon cornelius

well I have to re visit this. all tennoned joints are loose. i am thinking wood shrinkage is a major key factor. the table is set up near a pellet stove and is pretty hot. the wood legs have cracked like i have never seen before. my plan to fix this is 1: adding an extra set of braces on the chairs just below the seat boards. 2: cut a slice through the tennon and insert a wedge so as the tennon is pushed into the mortise, the wedge will spread the tennon nice and tight in the hole. ( i did it once before on a bench just to try it. worked great!) 3: a larger washer head screw to hold the tennon in place securely and glue it again

this set is in a store so it has to be extra sturdy. i had never made chairs like these before and the customer knew it. He is a nice guy and  wasn't upset thankfully. im a bit embarrassed but i will do what it takes to get it right.

It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

rasman57

I bet you are right about that stove.  That and the public setting would be hard on the assembly for sure.  Good for you...making it better.   That is integrity and good service! 

Just Me

Tip for you for next time...

Dry your parts with the tenons as dry as you can get them before you machine the tenons. Small parts can be dried in an oven on warm, larger parts you will have to come up with something else. I have a small room with a dehumidifier just for this purpose.

Don't dry the parts with the mortices. In fact sometimes I introduce moisture so they swell a bit. Machine these while the moisture content is high but still just before you put them together.

Now, when you assemble the tenons are shrunk as much as they are going to, and may even swell a bit if not next to a stove. The mortices are going to shrink more as they are greener so they will become tighter as these parts dry.

This is an old trick used on post and beam in the old days. Parts with tenons were cut a year earlier than the parts with the mortices.

If you are getting big splits it sounds like your wood was not ready yet, and then when it went in next to that stove all heck broke loose. Don't feel bad its part of the learning curve. If you stand up and take care of the problem you will be much more impressive to the customer than if things had just gone smooth in the first place. Honor is rare these days.

Larry

yukon cornelius

Quote from: Just Me on February 11, 2015, 06:15:24 PM
Tip for you for next time...

Dry your parts with the tenons as dry as you can get them before you machine the tenons. Small parts can be dried in an oven on warm, larger parts you will have to come up with something else. I have a small room with a dehumidifier just for this purpose.

Don't dry the parts with the mortices. In fact sometimes I introduce moisture so they swell a bit. Machine these while the moisture content is high but still just before you put them together.

Now, when you assemble the tenons are shrunk as much as they are going to, and may even swell a bit if not next to a stove. The mortices are going to shrink more as they are greener so they will become tighter as these parts dry.

This is an old trick used on post and beam in the old days. Parts with tenons were cut a year earlier than the parts with the mortices.

If you are getting big splits it sounds like your wood was not ready yet, and then when it went in next to that stove all heck broke loose. Don't feel bad its part of the learning curve. If you stand up and take care of the problem you will be much more impressive to the customer than if things had just gone smooth in the first place. Honor is rare these days.

Larry


Thanks for the tips. I should have checked moisture content. the were logs cut for more than a year and I just thought they were good. you are right, it is a learning curve.

I will make good on my commitments as far as it has to go.

I am going to add some extra braces as well.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Just Me

A friend of mine makes log furniture for a living and he likes to keep a healthy supply of rough stock drying inside his building.

http://modoclogfurniture.com/

A year might be enough inside a building but outside may be a different story, depending on your average humidity.

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