a few stupid carpentry questions

[Dan_Shade]

I'm prepping up to frame a garage up, I'm going to put an 8' framed wall on top of a block wall.

I have two large doors, one 16' and one 10' planned for the automotive section.  I need to use LVL headers to withstand the roof load.

first question:  should I nail the vertical studs directly to the sill plate, or install the sill plates, then frame up the wall on the ground using non-treated lumber then nail it to the sill plate?

second question:  how much wider should the LVL header be than the door opening?

[Bruno of NH]

Hi Dan
I'm a builder and this is what I do .
Frame walls on ground with kd studs and sills . Lift and nail to pt sills on block walls .
On big openings I use 3 jack studs on each side of opening .
Jim/Bruno of NH

[47sawdust]

Dan,
Typically you will install a treated sill (2x6 in this case)to the top of your block wall.Frame your 2x4 wall in manageable lengths with a single bottom and top plate.Then apply a 2nd plate to the top with a generous overlap at all joints as well as the corners.String ,straighten and brace before installing sheathing and rafters or trusses.
Header length is usually 3'' more than rough opening.

[shinnlinger]

Is there building codes to satisfy?   I Would bolt the pressure treat down and then frame the wall laying down and raise when done aka bottom plate on pressure treated plate. 
As for the lvl ovhang, how far apart are the openings?   I like a least 4inches on each side but again, you local building code and snow load, roof pitch, roofing material all come into play.   

[Dan_Shade]

thanks, shinnlinger, Bruno and sawdust47.

I the building will have to pass an inspection.

Do you guys mean like this:



 

The door is 10' wide, then 2' to the 16' door.

I have J-bolts in the block, I guess I'll have to drill holes in the KD board for clearance?

3 jack studs would be an extra 4.5" on each side of the opening?  The reason I ask is that the LVL's are 12' and 18' on the quote.  I guess they come in lengths like regular boards, that I need to trim to proper length?

[shinnlinger]

Yes.   If you install like your diagram you should be all set and it is much as everyone had said.   

That said, have you checked with building dept?   What did they say?

[Dan_Shade]

I'll call them just to make sure.

[Bruno of NH]

Dan
That's how I frame on block walls
Just like you drawing
That would pass code in my state .
Jim/Bruno

[Bruno of NH]

Dan
Are you using wood you have sawn for the framing wood ?
If so you might need to check with your code department on that .
Bruno

[Don_Papenburg]

Even using PT sill I would put a sill sealer membrane of some sort between the concrete block and the sill . it cuts air infiltration and helps alleviate rot from the block hole condensation.  also use long enough anchor bolts to fasten the second plate.  Use structural tie plates (USP or Strongtie)

[Holmes]

 Personally I would put 1 or 2 jack studs inside the opening ,down to the floor if door width allows.  This give you a place to attach the door trim instead of nailing/screwing to the cement blocks

[Dan_Shade]

I'm begrudgingly buying lumber.  I can use rough sawn, but it has to be full dimension, which making properly sizing nails a bit more challenging.

the J-bolts are already in the block.  I hired that part out. I think most of them stick up about 2.5"

[Tom the Sawyer]

If you ever consider building anything, and don't have much if any experience, consider this book.  It has answers to questions you haven't even considered.  Reference tables and options for framing, plumbing, wiring, roofing, heating loads, ductwork, and on and on.

"The Visual Handbook of Building and Remodeling" by Charlie Wing. 

I am on my second copy, have given several to family and friends, and have found it invaluable.

[47sawdust]

Personally I would put 1 or 2 jack studs inside the opening ,down to the floor if door width allows.  This give you a place to attach the door trim instead of nailing/screwing to the cement blocks.As well as the track.

Holmes -
Very good idea!
Mick

[LittleJohn]

Typically I have only use a single PT sill plate on the bottom, and still most times I have barely enough thread to get thru that board

[LeeB]

I recon I must not be too bright either, because I can't figure why these are stupid questions.

[Woodhauler]

When we did my garage, we put pressure trated sill on knee wall then built a stand 14 ft out on the garage floor. Built the walls in 20 ft sections. Sheathed them and tyeveked them laying flat. One edge rested on pressure treated sill , other on the 60 ft long stand we made. Stood walls with pulp loader. When doing this way all the walls are built at standing hight! Only kneeling is when you sheath and tyewrap!

[Dan_Shade]

It looks like I have a few J-bolts that will impede with the location of the jack studs, how do the pros handle this?  notch out the stud?

[mesquite buckeye]

You can also cut it off and drill out and epoxy in a bolt where you need it.  ;D

[submarinesailor]

You can also cut it off and drill out and epoxy in a bolt where you need it.  ;D

Dan - I agree with Buckeye.  If I needed one moved, this is what I would do.

Bruce

[47sawdust]

Dan,
J bolts frequently are where you want to put a stud or jack.After tightening the nut cut off the unused threaded portion and cut a notch in the bottom of the framing member and you are good to go.
47sawdust

[Magicman]

Yup, that is my way too.