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bent pushrod ? probable cause? one of those days..

Started by RunningRoot, December 11, 2014, 02:44:32 PM

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RunningRoot

So I've spent the last couple days  dropping and toping about 40-50k BFT.
Go to start pulling it out today and when I went to hook up my second hitch the C4D started missing and running like s**.get it back to the landing (barley) pull the valve cover and one of the pushrods on #2 cylinder is bent to hell and back.
Pulled the head and I have it in the back of the truck.

What would cause this ?investigating this evening but could use as many tips and insight as I can get.
A log in the hands worth two in the bush !

loggah

was the valve stem free in the guide? stuck valve? sometimes pushrods just get weak and if there not perfectly straight they bend. Im sure you looked in the cylinder to make sure there was nothing for the valve to hit.
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

barbender

I worked in a truck shop for a while that was running (at that time) Mack trucks. They had E6 Mack engines, the newer 4 valve versions had a habit of waxing up and seizing valves if they were allowed to run low idle in cold weather. A valve would stick right in the guide. We would have to pull the heads off, remove the valve and wash it in solvent. I've never seen an engine do that anywhere else. Just a thought for things to look into.
Too many irons in the fire

KyLogger

Valves out of adjustment?? Saw it happen in a Cummins I had a head off of (I won't name the mechanic ;) )
I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

bushmechanic

 Bent pushrod in a C4? Must be a Ford diesel in the engine bay. We had 220 Ford's and kept spares on hand... a touch too much starting fluid and we'd pull the pan and replace the bent one.

mad murdock

Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

KyLogger

I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

coxy

if it was running fine and then it started missing may have over revved it and not noticed doing it   if it where starting fluid I think it would have done it as soon as it started not 20-30min later just my 3 cents    or like others say stuck valve   is it a Detroit or other     

mad murdock

since you have the head off, if you have time, it would be worth dropping the oilpan and slipping a piston out to check and make sure the pistons arent broken.  Ether is NOT your friend.  On my garrett, I finally had to open up the engine, because when I bought it, it ran, but only with a little sniff of ether.  It was way overdone by the previous owner, When i got into it, there were 3 broken pistons of the 4, I worked the head over, and installed new pistons, and ever since i do not use ether to start it.  It will start easy just using the air intake preheater. If you have to use starting aids,
wd 40 is much better than ether, as far as engine health is concerned.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

RunningRoot

Pulled the probablem valve and it was seized tight... honed the guide,ground the valve and lapped them both. Straightened pushrod with a little heat and an oven trick I was taught. Installed the head this mourning and pulled wood all day,surprisingly ran like a top,better than ever.
Now I'm Trying to find a place to order new guides, pushrods,and an exhaust valve....
A log in the hands worth two in the bush !

barbender

Too many irons in the fire

mad murdock

If top cylinder lube is needing improved, as well as loser ing up stuck hydraulic lifters, use some marvel mystery oil in the oil pan and in the fuel. Say 8 oz in each, will greatly unstick things and keep them working as they should. The diesel we get nowadays is not too good on older engines. s15 diesel though cleaner fuel, does not lube like the diesel of yesteryear did.  Winter blends in cold states don't provide a lot of lube either. If you don't have marvel mystery, use a little ATF in the fuel tank. Will really help the older engines.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

bushmechanic

Running root glad to hear that you got her going again, still curious about what the make of the engine is. Mad murdock your completely right about the poor lubricity of todays fuel. I worked with a company that had a 2008 Kobelco 210 excavator and when it was about 2 years old it started to get hard to start when warm. Turned out to be the injection pump worn out... replaced and good again. The dealership said it was due to the fuel and advised the owner to use some standyne fuel additive. Long story short the owner didn't listen and another two years later and the same issue again has come up, needs another fuel injection pump. 

RunningRoot

It's a Ford Dorset 2701e industrial diesel.

The valve guide looked as tho a small piece of metal or particulate got between it and the valve, basically jammed it in the guide. It took a ball pin hammer to drive it out 😕
A log in the hands worth two in the bush !

loggah

Those engines had a habit of making a lot of condensation in the valve cover area in cold weather also,resulting in ice when the engine gets cold.
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

Maine logger88

Stanadyne additive  is real good stuff I run it in my skidders! I think they even cold start better with it
79 TJ 225 81 JD 540B Husky and Jonsered saws

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