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Timberking 2000 Kohler 38hp wiring diagram

Started by tmdffy, December 08, 2014, 09:45:24 PM

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tmdffy

Hi
I'm Tom from VT and want to put my TK 2000 key switch down on the console. It has Kohler 38 hp gas.
Can any body help with wiring diagram?
Tom Duffy

Magicman

No help Tom, but Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

How about adding your location and sawmill to your profile.  It helps with questions, etc.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

POSTON WIDEHEAD

I can't help you but I'm sure somebody can.

So what good am I? Not much.  :D :D :D

Welcome to the F.F. tmdffy. Glad you joined.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Larry

Welcome to the forum Tom.

Kohler service manuals are free and online.  Do a google with these terms "kohler service manual command pro ch940-ch980".  You may have to look through a couple to make sure you are getting the right one.   Its a big PDF file.   I downloaded a copy I guess three years ago and the wiring diagram is Section 7 figure 7 on page 7.6.  One thing that may create some confusion is the 38 hp engine is now a 34 hp engine.  Some kind of EPA thing but there really the same engine.

I don't know what you have on your mill but if you move the switch you should also get the remote throttle and choke kit from TK.  It is expensive but you can put in a cable with enough wires to do it at a later date.  Also any cable that goes into a energy chain is special stuff to resist abrasion (read expensive).  Can't remember the name but TK can tell you.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

tmdffy

Thanks Larry,
I found the PDF manual for Kohler this am and took screen shots of those three pages of wiring diagrams. I'll print them out at some point with out all of the other pages.
It's a 2013 model TK 2000 with high idle and blade clutch and guide roller adjust, toggle switches on the console.
It's difficult to ohm out because of the non conductive spray on the existing switch connections.
I have access to lots of appropriate wire. I've been in electronics for 25 years
Also, I want to add 12 volt control of lube, so TK wiring harness no good
Did you buy the TK kit for putting key and choke control down on console?
Tom Duffy

Larry

I bought my mill in 2010, before TK had any remotes so I designed and built my own remote throttle.  So far its worked great, but if it ever gives me any trouble I'll buy the whole package from TK cause there unit is better than what I did.  I left the key and choke on the engine but would like to have it on the console.

For the lube control get a solenoid valve off ebay and wire it to your electric clutch.  Several of us did that mod and at least my valve has been working good for the last 4 years.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

tmdffy

Thanks Larry
So whenever the blade is on, the lube is on? And just ground the other end?
So now I need to decide whether or not I want to spend $324 for the wiring harness, maybe 6 wires
The whole kit is about $975 and includes LA and bracket for choke and toggle switch
I really like this machine so far though, $0 maintenance in first 200 hours
Tom Duffy

xlogger

I just cut a piece of drop cord and ran it threw my energy chain,
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Ga Mtn Man

Welcome to the forum tmdffy.

As best I remember from over two years ago from when I moved the key switch to the operator station on my 2000, I removed the key switch and it's connector from the engine (cut the wires and spliced :o).  You only need 3 wires from the engine to the key switch: +12V, START, RUN (GND can be connected at the operator station).   I used the 10awg +12v hot wire from the blade clutch switch for the +12V and ran additional wires for the START and RUN.  Use at least 14awg wire and you'll need a little less than 50'.  If you could find a mate to the key switch connector then you won't have to cut any wires.

     
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: tmdffy on December 08, 2014, 10:24:50 PM
Thanks Larry,
I found the PDF manual for Kohler this am and took screen shots of those three pages of wiring diagrams. I'll print them out at some point with out all of the other pages.
It's a 2013 model TK 2000 with high idle and blade clutch and guide roller adjust, toggle switches on the console.
It's difficult to ohm out because of the non conductive spray on the existing switch connections.
I have access to lots of appropriate wire. I've been in electronics for 25 years
Also, I want to add 12 volt control of lube, so TK wiring harness no good
Did you buy the TK kit for putting key and choke control down on console?

You'll get a better quality print-out by printing the actual individual page(s) using adobe acrobat. Just determine the PDF page numbers and than print only those pages. The results will be a lot easier to read.

Herb

Larry

Quote from: tmdffy on December 09, 2014, 12:07:16 AM
Thanks Larry
So whenever the blade is on, the lube is on? And just ground the other end?

Yes and yes.  The valve hardly draws any current.  They were on ebay for less than $20.

I knew the remote kit was expensive, just not that expensive. :o
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

tmdffy

Thanks GMM, that's a big help. I worked on the mill and tried to get some intell today but it started to snow hard and I forgot to measure for the length. And I forgot to look at the male connectors on the back of that key switch. I was just going to cut and crimp 1/4" females on key switch end and male up at the engine to go into the female plug that was once plugged into the back of key switch. I should have examined that more closely today to see if they were 1/4"
My mill is about 4 towns away.
Tom Duffy

tmdffy

Thanks Larry,
I checked that idea out today and have all of the plumbing parts now. Only question that I have is , how did you connect that switched hot 12v 16 wag to the same 6 awg ? I was just going to cut that single connector off and crimp on new
Male 1/4" 6awg with small wire from new solenoid together , then just plug it back in.  That is 6 awg?
And just self tap ground ?
Tom Duffy

Larry

The wire from the clutch switch on the console to the electric clutch on the engine is 14 or possibly 12 awg from my memory.  For sure its not #6.  That 14 awg is what you tap into with one wire from your valve and the other wire is grounded by the closest screw.

I found this old thread with a couple of pictures towards the bottom of the installation from different members.  I've never posted any pictures of the one I did but if you still have any questions I'll take a couple tomorrow.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,57926.0.html





Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on December 09, 2014, 08:03:27 AM
... I used the 10awg +12v hot wire from the blade clutch switch for the +12V...     

After thinking about it some more, I believe the 10awg (not sure about the gauge) wire goes to the blade guide switch not the clutch switch.

To find the correct wire to tap into for the lube valve, go to the blade clutch and locate the +12V wire, follow it back and tap in at a convenient location

Keep in mind that your mill may not be wired the same as mine or Larry's.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

tmdffy

Thanks Larry and GMM
I just tried to post the jpg of the 14 awg wires coming out of the blade clutch and
Going into a plug the two 8awg wires going to the console blade clutch switch
One has slot male and other has round male. I'm going to tap into the 14awg (the wire that goes 12volts when I flip the switch)
Why can't I post jpg s?
Tom Duffy

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: tmdffy on December 09, 2014, 09:30:24 PM
...

Why can't I post jpg s?

You can (it's actually the only photo format supported here) but the secret is that you don't put them directly in your message. Instead you first upload them to your gallery here at the Forestry Forum and then put a link in the message to display the photo that's in the gallery.  It sounds a lot worse than it is actually and there's pretty good reasons which we do it this way here.

The following link will take you to detailed instructions.  If you get stuck, just yell in a post and somebody will help you further.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/board,93.0.html

Herb

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