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Wolverine parking brake problem

Started by eichenberg93, December 02, 2014, 05:49:46 PM

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eichenberg93

The title about sums it up. The last few days been working on getting a few bugs worked out of it. (repacking leaky cylinders, replace switches, ect.) went to move it to the job. Got about halfway and the parking brake set. it only works on the ditch side so it got interesting real fast.  :o Then we shut it off for a few mins. and fired it up again and when about 100 yards. then it set again and so on. til there was a spot to get of the road.

The question is what could cause this problem. Its electric over hydraulic operating the brake in the wheel. It takes power to the solenoid to take the brake off. All the connections In the dash look good. Could it be a faulty solenoid or a short in the wiring between the switch and the solenoid? What gets me is that it will work for a while then not.  :-\

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Ran out of light today but would be nice to have a few things to check come daylight. Thanks     


North River Energy

No knowledge of the exact circuit in that machine.

But;  it sounds like either the solenoid, or the relay controlling it (assuming it's not switched directly), is 'overheating' and then 'unlatching'.

Or you could have a wire that looks good from the outside, but with broken strands making intermittent contact.  If the brake remains 'free' while parked, but engages once subject to vibration etc, then that is a possibility. Maybe hook a test light to the solenoid input and see what you get?



lopet

Yes , solenoids can do weird things if they don't have enough voltage. Must be a newer one if it has joy stick controls.   
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

eichenberg93

Quote from: North River Energy on December 02, 2014, 06:12:04 PM
No knowledge of the exact circuit in that machine.

But;  it sounds like either the solenoid, or the relay controlling it (assuming it's not switched directly), is 'overheating' and then 'unlatching'.

Or you could have a wire that looks good from the outside, but with broken strands making intermittent contact.  If the brake remains 'free' while parked, but engages once subject to vibration etc, then that is a possibility. Maybe hook a test light to the solenoid input and see what you get?


There isn't a relay between the solenoid and the switch. Power comes of the switch's acc. side and goes thru a mushroom style push button. Though about in the morning hooking a jumper wire to the input side of the valve body and bypassing the current wire. Thanks


Lopet: From what I found out its about a 1989. Had to be just before they switched to Joy sticks. Would be nice If it did have joysticks ;)

lopet

Sorry I am a little lost here. In you first post it says electric over hydraulic, or is that just for the parking brake ?  If so, and you say it needs power to release  then check the voltage on the solenoid first ( assuming it's 12 volts ). Only if it's not, you probably have a faulty wire.
Make sure you know how to fall properly when you fall and as to not hurt anyone around you.
Also remember, it's not the fall what hurts, its the sudden stop. !!

North River Energy

Good plan on the bypass. Jump to a source upstream of the ignition switch.

I had an older car with a worn ignition.
If I slammed the door too hard, the engine shut off.

eichenberg93

NRE: it would be a good idea to get power before the ignition switch. both of the switches(ignition, parking brake switch) are brand new but could maybe be a faulty switch

Lopet: Well it is a Electronically controlled hydraulic valve body that controls the two speed and the parking brake. It draws fluid off one of the main pumps. What im wondering is if a voltage problem or a valve body problem. Im just trying to get some option's on what to look for in the daylight.

snowstorm

bad magnet? i had one act like that on a 2 sp gear box. new magnet fixed it

eichenberg93

Quote from: snowstorm on December 02, 2014, 07:46:47 PM
bad magnet? i had one act like that on a 2 sp gear box. new magnet fixed it


Good to know. Can you just change the magnet or do you have to replace whole valve body?   Thanks

snowstorm


eichenberg93

Well finally made it to the job. In the morning put in a jumper wire from the dash to the valve body. Seemed to work good for the first 1/8th mile then engaged again. ::) Shut it down then tried again. near the end of the trip didn't have a problem with it. So maybe a sticky valve? Went to cut our first tree with it and now the saw head doesn't want to engage.... Guess there is something to figure out tomorrow :D Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions


oldseabee

Not sure what sort of drive system in  the Wolverine, but if it is hydrostatic wheel drive similar to the Bell machines the brakes are between the wheel motor and the planetaries and they are spring loaded with hydraulic release using the standby pressure in the hydrostats, so if the standby pressure is low the brake may not release or if it is borderline as the oil heats the pressure can drop and let the brake apply. If the saw is driven by a piston pump the same problem of low standby pressure can cause the saw not to operate.

eichenberg93

Quote from: oldseabee on December 05, 2014, 10:00:13 AM
Not sure what sort of drive system in  the Wolverine, but if it is hydrostatic wheel drive similar to the Bell machines the brakes are between the wheel motor and the planetaries and they are spring loaded with hydraulic release using the standby pressure in the hydrostats, so if the standby pressure is low the brake may not release or if it is borderline as the oil heats the pressure can drop and let the brake apply. If the saw is driven by a piston pump the same problem of low standby pressure can cause the saw not to operate.

We figured out the problem was a short in the power wire that went to the valve bank. Ran a new wire and haven't had a problem with it yet. The machine has set for a while prior to us buying it. Took apart the valve body for the saw head and found a sticky piston in side the electric solenoid. That solved it. From what you said it is the same setup as a Bell. Thanks for the Reply 

Atlantic Trader

I have never seen one of these up North,could you tell us how productive it is and how well it works on trees up tomwhat diameter as well as what terrain it can handle, looks like a nice small machine for bunching and the prces n used ones seem good.

eichenberg93

Quote from: Atlantic Trader on December 10, 2014, 06:09:29 PM
I have never seen one of these up North,could you tell us how productive it is and how well it works on trees up tomwhat diameter as well as what terrain it can handle, looks like a nice small machine for bunching and the prces n used ones seem good.

It is a nice little feller. Been only running it for a week now and will handle a good 14''. At that size you can go where you want to go. Anything bigger then that it starts to get hairy getting it on the ground without tipping it on its nose. ;)
It has a 18" head on it but with the flare of the tree it may take a few cuts to get it over.

The good thing about it is the maneuverability of it around trees. its not like a wheeled buncher where you have to backup quite often to get it inline with the tree.

The ground we are one right now is relatively flat but from what I think it is not for hills. When we bought it they claimed it could cut 13 cord/hour. That was after one person ran It for a year in a decent stand of popple. Right now im no where near that but it getting better everyday.  8)

   

Atlantic Trader

Sounds good,in no time you will have it mastered, iam thinking something like it would work good for me, felling by and right know and running a line skidder, doing small jobs and selling firewood.

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