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Suburban sawyer

Started by John357, November 27, 2014, 11:24:27 AM

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John357

Hello,

Received the HM126 two weeks ago, brand new from the factory.  Took a few days to assemble, but am ready to go now.

I am a woodworker initially, bought the mill to process neighbor's trees (all my trees are cut for firewood) rather than see them carted away.  I'm looking to saw up the best quality boards from any logs I can get.  Log handling is a 4x4 and a winch and an 8 foot trailer. 

John

Woodland Mills HM126

thecfarm

John357,welcome to the forum and the world of sawing!!! 
You can post pictures of some of the stuff you built
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

John357

Woodland Mills HM126

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, John357
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

goose63

Welcome to the Forum John your going to need some more things a logrite peeve to turn the logs and if thy are big 

  I cheat some
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

kelLOGg

Hey, John. I'm in Durham, actually Chatham Co. Whereabouts are you in Raleigh? Welcome to the FF.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

fat olde elf

Welcome John !!  Always glad to see another NC sawyer.... I'm 30 miles east of Charlotte and and proud to be acquainted with Bob Kellog and many others here in NC.  This Forum is your best source for info and expertise.  Glad you are here .....
Paul R.
Cook's MP-32 saw, MF-35, Several Husky Saws, Too Many Woodworking Tools, 4 PU's, Kind Wife.

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, John357.  Sounds like you have a plan so continue to share your sawing and woodworking experiences here. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

John357

Thanks for the welcome.  I do have a 5ft. cant hook for turning and loading. 

I have a few logs waiting this morning, my first try at loading the trailer with the winch.  I just don't have the space for a tractor/lift and can't justify the expense.   That's why I settled on a manual saw, on the ground.  It seemed to me to be a huge leap to go with a portable mill (on a trailer) because I would need a truck, larger saw (w/ hydralics  ;D) and then a loader. 

Like I said, I'm trying small scale suburban cutting for now.  I know I may have to refuse some larger logs.  I'll let you know how it goes.

John

and thnx for the NC welcome!  I'm near Falls Lake in Raleigh, large lots and many trees.
Woodland Mills HM126

drobertson

It looks to me like you have it going just fine,  those smaller mills on the ground look perfect for what you have in mind.  Next step is to get us some photos to see some of the action! ;D
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

John357

Well, I have proven the concept with the first log!  I was able to winch the log up onto the trailer without a problem.  Now I need to fab some blocks to keep the trailer at the correct angle, and some blocks to lift the front end of the log so it won't get hung up on the trailer. 

I'll download some pics later tonight.

John

Woodland Mills HM126

Slingshot


   Or you could put a rig like this on your trailer...



 



 



 


Have fun with your new mill.
__________________________________-----
Charles,   sling_shot




John357

I'll try to get a better pic of loading a log tomorrow. 

For now, here's the mill,



 

and another,



 

Let's see if they uploaded properly ...

John

Woodland Mills HM126

John357

Great!  once I had a small log on the mill, I trimmedit up on four sides.  I found the cut was not straight.  It was only a little larger than this cant, so that may have something to do with it.  Of course, maybe the blade wasn't tight enough.  Anyone seen this before? 


 



 

I think I'm getting the hang of this.

John

Woodland Mills HM126

Allen S

Welcome John357 you will like that mill I have one just like it. How long is your bed on yours?

John357

Hi Allen,

The total length is 18 ft., but the cutting assembly (what do we call that?) takes up about 3 feet. 

For anyone else, the mill ships with 2 sections of 6 ft. each, so out of the box I can mill about 9 ft. log.  I bought an extra 6 ft. (and got another 6 ft. for half price, which is still in the box in the shed) so I won't be squeezed on either end.   I've seen some pics where an operator has the extra track run into a wood shed with a closing door so he can store the head assembly out of the weather.  That's what I had in mind and hope to do eventually.

John
Woodland Mills HM126

slider

Welcome  John nice mill you have there .Can't wait to see what you do with your wood.Oh and by the way when you get that part about turning down the ones that are too big to mess with figured out let me know how you did it.al
al glenn

dboyt

Welcome to the forum, John, and congratulations on the mill.  You'll get more consistent on your cuts with experience.  Some species, like post oak, are very hard to cut straight.  Blade tension could be the culprit, but don't just keeping cranking it tighter thinking that you'll fix a crooked cut.  Cutting speed-- either too fast or too slow-- can cause wavy boards.  Knots can be a problem.  Check your blade guides to make sure they're parallel to the track.  And when you saw into a log stop or clamp, just put on a fresh blade and keep on sawing.

As Slider says, it is easy to SAY you'll turn down big logs.  But when you get a nice 40" walnut log, you'll find a way to mill it.  I've quartered many a log with a chain saw to get it on my mill.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

backwoods sawyer

Quote from: dboyt on November 29, 2014, 09:54:57 AM
when you saw into a log stop or clamp, Lower the log stop then, just put on a fresh blade and keep on sawing.

;D you would not be the first to miss that step ;D
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

John357

Well these neighborhood trees just about did me in today.  I got 4 beautiful, straight logs, and a fifth at the top with some branches 15 inches at the base, all cut to about 9 feet.  But getting them on/off the trailer was murder.  I may have satisifed my desire to mill every tree around! 

thanks for the encouragement Dboyt.  I'd like to get a little more precise before attempting these beauties. 



  

  

 

I think they're maple.  Is there anything unique to sawing maple I should know?  Does it benefit from Qsaw or rift sawing like oak?

John

Woodland Mills HM126

RayMO

They kinda look like hickory but hard to tell in picture.
Father & Son Logging and sawing operation .

SLT44

I'm curious as to what size winch you are using to pull the logs on your trailer and if you have pointers on that process.  I have a good two axle trailer, but I'm in the same situation of not wanting to invest in some sort of loader to move logs a dozen miles to my mill--which is just like yours.  Many thanks for any tips you and others can give me.

John357

Hi SLT44,

Mine is a 8000 lb. Smittybilt winch (XRC 8000) with stainless steel line, mounted in the front of the jeep.  I have to position the trailer and then turn the jeep around to use the winch.

In order to pull the logs onto the trailer, I am able to tip the end of the trailer way down, and have to also raise the front of the logs so they will clear the trailer.  Then I winch the logs up.  They slide easily up the deck.  It's tricky to know when to stop, if I have another log to load, as the trailer will fall to level once the log is fully on (I'm pulling 8 ft. logs on an 8 ft. trailer). 

I have been simply hooking the winch hook onto the line itself, but plan on getting some skidding tongs for ease of use, and because the winch line is rubbing on the trailer.   Someone suggested using rollers under the logs on the deck; I have some round hand railing I'll use next time. 

Unloading is almost a bigger challenge.  I could reverse the process and winch the logs off the trailer, but that's too much work.   First time I just levered the logs off the end at least halfway (pushing against the side rail) so the logs tipped off but were still hanging on (trailer didn't tip at it was still attached at the hitch), and then driving off quickly!  Not really a good practice, but it was getting late.  For this load, I will place the rollers under the logs before taking off, hopefully the impacts won't be as bad as the first time. 

I spent all morning researching A frames and gantry hoists for unloading.  Saw some pretty good videos, of hoists that probably would work, but the frame will be in the way after I move the trailer and lower the log.  Still thinking about that. 

Hope that gives you some ideas, would love to hear of your approach.

John
Woodland Mills HM126

Magicman

Quote from: John357 on November 30, 2014, 06:13:37 PMI have been simply hooking the winch hook onto the line itself, but plan on getting some skidding tongs for ease of use
Or at least get a short chain and put a "cable" hook on one end to use as a choker.  No need to damage/fray your winch line.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

John357

Great idea Magicman, thanks. 

Thinking about skidding tongs, they clamp as they are pulled, right?  And lifting tongs are more heavy-duty than skidding tongs?  Only thing I know is lifting tongs are more expensive than the skidding tongs.

John

Woodland Mills HM126

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