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Think I have an alignment problem

Started by just_sawing, November 27, 2014, 08:20:47 AM

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just_sawing

 

 
This is Sassafras that a customer needed to have a 12 by 12 on the bottom and a 8 By 8 6 foot up
I was in a hurry so I didn't photograph the full process but will try to explain if someone wants a taper.
Square the log to the largest square needed (12 By 12)
Now cut a cross at 6 inches on the end, I use the blade to go in 1 inch .
Now compute the taper at eight foot.


 
Now mark the top and bottom of the column at the small end. 3.5 up and 3.5 down
Now position your blade at 12 inches and raise the small end up to the 12 inch position of the blade (In the case the top line which is at 9.5 inches. and cut a wedge off
turn and repeat. turn and reposition to the line and cut
When finished you now have a tapered column.
You can follow me at
www.http://haneyfamilysawmill.com

Magicman

I have made a few of those when I forgot to lower the toe board roller on the far end.   :-\
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Banjo picker

I have threw a few of those tapered slabs on the pile myself, not meaning to.
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Ohio_Bill

Bill
USAF Veteran  C141 Loadmaster
LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

Sixacresand

I make accidental wedges too.  It is hard to stay focused on the position of log stops, clamps, and rollers.  Milling is not a simple task!  Thanks for posting Just_sawing.  I am sure somebody someday will want a tapered post and I sure did not have a clue how to figure it out :D
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

hunz

I do the same thing more than I'd like to admit. Whenever it does, It can be rather embarassing in front of a customer.....I have actually been thinking that Woodmizer should have some type of toe roller indicator, or something that let's you know not all ends of the cant are touching the bunks, like in the case of bark getting lodged under the log. Not really sure how to make that upgrade effective and inexpensive. I don't think that upgrade could be both.
Dream as if you'll saw forever; saw as if you'll die today.



2006 Woodmizer LT40D51RA, Husqvarna 372xp, Takeuchi TL140

beenthere

hunz
That is a good project for you to figure out and make a mod to your mill. ;)

Don't need to wait for WM.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Magicman on November 27, 2014, 08:35:30 AM
I have made a few of those when I forgot to lower the toe board roller on the far end.   :-\

I've done this too. But now, when a roller goes up, I put my pen in my hand to remind me......when the roller goes down, the pen goes down.  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

backwoods sawyer

Nicely done.

Production mills use 24 volt limit switches. should be able to find 12v.
Red light on the control panel indicates the wand is up.
A photo eye would work as well but tucking it under the bed would be the challenge as it would need to look across the bed to a reflector.

After making a tapered cut or two ::) I made it a habit to double check that the rollers were down by acuating both levers together before using any other levers.

Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: backwoods sawyer on November 27, 2014, 02:03:00 PM
After making a tapered cut or two ::) I made it a habit to double check that the rollers were down by acuating both levers together before using any other levers.
I do the same and it works every time...until the next time I forget to do it. ::)
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

drobertson

If I understand the process you described,  I believe that's how I've done it a well,   Now, the accidental tapered columns, it works in reverse, with a smaller than intended beam :D  Pretty sure most folks have tested the waters at least once followed by a head scratching moment ;D
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

kelLOGg

Quote from: Magicman on November 27, 2014, 08:35:30 AM
I have made a few of those when I forgot to lower the toe board roller on the far end.   :-\
Ditto...except my toe board is a jack.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Magicman

I expect that the results are the same.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

JSwigga

Quote from: Magicman on November 27, 2014, 08:35:30 AM
I have made a few of those when I forgot to lower the toe board roller on the far end.   :-\

Oh man.. I hate that!!  The other day I cut 5/4 board all the way down and I was left with a oversized door stop on the last cut. 
60" Lucas Dedicated Slabber, TimberKing 2200 , 5 ton Nissan forklift, John Deere FEL

Swatson

Glad to hear that some of you pro's do this to.  Im with Kellogg and use a jack...Anyone need a 10 ft x 10 in wedge with a rise of 1 inch?  Its walnut  :(.
I cant figure out which one I like better: working with wood or making the tools to work with wood.

just_sawing

It is funny that I cut these porch post just to prove I could do it. I Now have two more homes that need another 13 for a start. The Contractor has been contacted by people seeing the porch and now they want the same.  I guess that I am in the taper porch post business also.
You can follow me at
www.http://haneyfamilysawmill.com

bkaimwood

Good thread...especially being I have 80 cants to taper saw in 3 weeks or so...4" at the big end, 3" at the small end, starting 10" in...1/2" taper each side, 4 sides, 320 cuts...
bk

WV Sawmiller

Just,

   Sure looks like a perfect time to have a laser blade indicator on your mill if you want to make these tapers deliberately. (As mentioned many times I think we have all done this by accident.)

   One caution I can see would be to make sure your "big" end of your beam is directly on a rail to make sure when you raise the "little" end you don't accidently drop the big end below the mark and cut too much.

   Good luck. Interesting project and thought provoking on how to accomplish it.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Brucer

I've made quite a few of these on purpose (and we won't discuss the other kind :D).

I calculate the taper on one face, then multiply by the distance between the first and last fixed bed rails (92" on my LT40). Then I cut two shims, one the calculate height and one twice as high. Both are two inches wide.

Once I've squared up the timber, I lift the timber with the toeboard, place the smaller shim on the first bed rail, lower the timber onto it, and make a cut. Reverse the operation and turn the timber and the tapered slab, keeping the slab against the side stops. Raise with the toeboards, insert small shim, lower timber. I do the last two cuts in a similar way, using the taller shim (because I'm compensating for tapers on two faces).

The reason I keep the tapered slab against the side stops is because If I don't the timber will be slightly out of square when it's finished. With a small taper this usually doesn't matter. With a bigger taper it can be quite noticeable when the ends are cut to their final length.

The most interesting tapered timbers I cut where from Western Red Cedar. I was sawing for a timber framer at the time and the customer wanted tapered wooden posts that would not crack over time. The timber framer suggested having them fabricated from steel, but the customer was adamant -- they had to be wood (and no cracks). The only way we could figure to do this was to hollow out the posts. So ....

Cut a pair of 17" square timbers out of WRC. Set one cant aside and split the other one down the centre. Sent both pieces over to the shop to have the inside dimensions laid out and the heart removed. I cut them a couple of tapered boards and they used a 16" circular timber framing saw to make the side cuts so they were parallel to the eventual outer face. Then they got out the chainsaws, chisels, etc. and gouged out the heart.

WRC moves a lot when you cut it. Cutting it in half and then taking out the centre really made it move. So ... they sent the pieces back to me and I put them hollow side up on the mill and just shaved off enough to make the inside faces flat. Then they went back to the shop where the framers planed the faces on the hollowed side and then glued and clamped them together.

While the glue was drying we did the second timber. Now we had two almost square timbers with a tapered hollow in the middle.

Next day I put the timbers on the mill and cut the outsides to the desired taper, with a 1/16" trim allowance on each face. The timber framers planed them to finished size with a 13" power planer and cut them square. Phew.

I charged a lot for that. So did the timber frame shop. After they were installed the customer told the framers he wanted them painted flat black ::) ::). You'd never have been able to tell the difference if they'd been made from metal.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Peter Drouin

I had one customer I made a bunch for By the BF , He did not want to pay for the small piece I cut off.  :D :D I told him he paid for the lumber that came off the log to make a cant your going to pay for all of it. :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Andries

Quote from: Brucer on March 07, 2016, 09:08:34 PM
I've made quite a few of these on purpose (and we won't discuss the other kind :D).
. . . . The timber framers planed them to finished size with a 13" power planer and cut them square. Phew.
I charged a lot for that. So did the timber frame shop. After they were installed the customer told the framers he wanted them painted flat black ::) ::). You'd never have been able to tell the difference if they'd been made from metal.
Seems like the 'one percenters' of the world are the same everywhere. They know what they want!
. . . and we get to cut tapers and all sots of other cool stuff, while getting paid for it.
Good post!
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

GAB

The door stops that really get me are the ones that are caused by a piece of bark on the bed rails that I did not see.
This thread has been a very interesting read.
Now how would you process the log if the customer wanted 8x8 to 12x12 octagon posts or pieces?
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Magicman on November 27, 2014, 08:35:30 AM
I have made a few of those when I forgot to lower the toe board roller on the far end.   :-\

I have done this several times.....talk about something that REALLY gets your goat.  :o
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Chuck White

I really doubt that there are very many here that have toe boards (or rollers) on their mills that haven't forgotten to lower them at one time or another.   :-\
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

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