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New Rancher runs great but

Started by Timberwerks, August 08, 2004, 06:52:38 AM

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Timberwerks

The RPM is a bit high. My no load rpm is 13,000 with a 16" bar. Recomended is 12,500. The carb has stops on the needles so I cant adjust the high side with out removing the stops. I'm sure that would void the warranty. What do you guy's think run it as is, or remove the stops. Like I said I put the tach on and ran the chain with no load. I think I'll be safe but other opinions are of course always welcome.

Dale

jokers

Hi Dale,

I`d either take the saw back to the selling dealer and have them adjust the carb, or in the case of a mail ordered saw, just remove the limiters(or just the ears of the limiters) and do it myself. You will find that your new saw will in almost all circumstances have more power and faster cutting if you tune the rpms from 300 - 500 below factory spec. Your saw will also last longer due to the improved lubrication and internal cooling afforded by the richer fuel/air ratio.

Russ

Rocky_J

If you want 'warranty', then return the saw and let them remove the caps and adjust the carb. If you continue running the saw like it is, your saw will have a much shorter lifespan regardless of 'warranty'. The carb needs adjusting, not adjusting it or not having it adjusted is abuse/ neglect in my opinion.

[rant]
Why do so many people think if they maintain their saw it is somehow 'voiding the warranty' when they don't even want to let the dealer adjust it either? Then they whine about what a POS the saw is because it is hard to start or it dies after 2 years of running it lean?

Has anyone ever had a 'warranty' disclaimed because they adjusted the carb? I dare say it has never happened and people frightened over such nonsense are afraid of nothing but rumours perpetuated by themselves and others who don't know what they are talking about. These same people worry about what brand of two cycle oil goes in which engine because they have 3 different cans of 50-1 mix for 3 different brands of equipment in their garage.
[/rant]

Tom

Rocky,
I think that the reason for concern is a Pavlov effect created by long years of "reputable" companies who offer long warranties to make sales and then use a lot of small print to avoid honoring them.   The public, in self defense, is shying away from the warranty "scam" in droves and now questions the Quality of products that offer "extended" warranties.

Even a life-time warranty is only as good as the longevity of the company and the hoops they make you jump through to take advantage of it.  I have a wrench with a life-time warranty but the store is 50 miles away.  Maybe someday I'll take it back if I'm in the neighborhood and am lucky enough to have it with me.

I've also got items in the house that require packaging and returning to the Manufacturer.   Taiwan?  

Perhaps it seems a little foolish that so many of us are concerned with warranties but I can certainly understand why.   We are being trained real good. :)

Dean Hylton

WOW!!!  :o    Let's start with the original question.  YES turn your carb down, but do not pull the caps. I have seen several epa saws that have come into the shop where guys have removed and replaced the caps (usually to turn up their saw) and then bring it in to us because the carb. will not hold adjustment.  The best way that I have found (if you can not adjust with the limiters in their current position) is to take a shard knife or razor blade and very carefully shave the edge of the limiter. If you take care to do this, it can not be seen and you will not get a loose fit on the limitters from reinstallation.   RPM range is set up for several reasons and is a very tricky balancing act.  The high end is because of heat; materials used to build the saw can only handle a certain temperature for so long with out failure.  The mix oil  recomended for your saw and the grade of gas recomended are desinged to run your saw at it's optimal performance with  out over heating the machine. Higher RPM do 2 things: 1 - the more times around the track, the more milage, so more wear. If the saw is burried in wood when running this would just mean more wood cut and would negate any ill affect; as the amount of wood cut is the real measure of saw life, not time in the garage. The problem comes when the saw is cutting small wood on a regular basis (like limbing) this is just waisted times around the track. On the other hand if you are cutting large rollers, this has it's advantages in the form of getting the job done quicker. 2- is the real problem HEAT higher RPM mean a hotter saw. Heat swells metal and causes more friction and the cycle grows. There is both steal and magnesium alloy in your saw that move with heat at differant temps. The other problem is; that to obtain Rpm  ranges more than above about 100 - 200 over the factory recomended range you have to run your saw too "lean". This is VERY BAD!!!! Lean for those who might not know is to have less fuel in the air fuel mix or in some cases less oil in the fuel. They both have the same effect; less oil coating the bearings and cylinder wall. Now add this with more miles and more friction and guess what :'(  Now for the other end of things. Too rich has it's own problem, Carbon build up. If a saw can not burn the fuel completely it will build up carbon which is like gravel in your saw. Gas burns fairly complete but oil is very tough to get a complete burn on. This is why you can not just mix any old oil in your gas and use it. The oil is designed to first burn (when properly mixed with gas and air) completely as possible. Next it is designed to coat and effectively lube bearing and cylinder surfaces. Remember the "properly mixed" part. If you do not have enough oil, your bearings and cylinder will not be protected. If you do not have enough air then the burn is not complete and you fill your saw with gravel. If you have too much oil compaired to the fuel you will get the same effect. ??? Should you ever run your saw rich or lean? YES  :o First off only with in reason. You can set your saw up for "the cut". If you are a thinner with the trigger taped down and cut wide open till the tank is dry ( yes I have a customer that runs a crew like this) then set your fuel air mix rich as carbon is going to be the least of your worries. If you are cutting large rollers and have your saw burrried in wood constantly then turning your mix slightly lean to get a few more RPM is bennificial with out any noticable harm.  Remember though at both ends heat is your enemy. Blow out your saws and keep your air cleaners "clean" ;)   By the way if you use Husqvarna mix and high octain fuel (never more than 6 weeks old) Husky will guarentee their cranks for life.

Kevin

Dean ;
Thanks for your professional and informative response.

Kevin.

Timberwerks

Well, I cut the limiting ears off the high needle this morning and set the saw to 12,000 rpm. The saw now runs fantasic and actually seems to have more power. The low needle is fine. I would have thought the factory setting would have been favoring the low side of top rpm rating.
Having a tachometer is really a worth while investment. Actually I could tell by ear the saw was running high but it's nice to see a true rpm reading.

Thanks Guy's
Dale

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