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Timberking 2000 Headrig Lowering n more

Started by 4x4American, November 22, 2014, 09:42:40 PM

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4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Tom the Sawyer

4x4American,

My TK is too old to have that problem (B-20) and it's a pain when problems happen on the weekend but Mike or Jason should be able to help you on Monday if no one from the Forum has an answer before then.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

pine

Quote from: 4x4American on November 22, 2014, 09:44:41 PM
I am also having problems with that movable guide roller fluttering.  Seems to me that the design is just not all there.  I thought about putting a third bolt going upwards to help stabilize it, but when I talked to mike there in service he told me that wasn't a good idea because it could throw off the arm somehow.

The guide roller is fluttering or the blade coming off the guide roller is fluttering? 
I don't understand the guide roller fluttering.  Do you mean it is fluttering/chattering on the bolt bearing?
I have had my share of problems with my TK but your issues are new ones to me.

pine

Also check the idler sprocket bushings that the lift chain runs through.  Mine have frozen up several times.  The first time the bushings were spalled.  The cotter pins on the end of the pins that then go through the sprocket and bushings turn and get destroyed by the mill frame.  I wonder if that could cause the dropping issue that you have.  I doubt it but worth a look. 

Try to raise/lower the head then without moving it on the track go try to shake the head and see if it drops a bit.  You say it drops but did not say how much.

xlogger

Not sure why the head drops, but on the movable guide roller I drill a hole in the U clamp and threaded a bolt hole threw it that I could adjust up to put proper tension down on the roller. You can put too much so start light and move up. Ricky
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger

If you cut off the saw with the head up, will drop just sitting there?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: xlogger on November 23, 2014, 05:15:42 AM
Not sure why the head drops, but on the movable guide roller I drill a hole in the U clamp and threaded a bolt hole threw it that I could adjust up to put proper tension down on the roller. You can put too much so start light and move up. Ricky

When I did this on my TK2000, I replaced all three bolts with nylon ones.  If you do this mod you must make sure the horizontal head frame member is perfectly parallel to the bunks.  After installing the third bolt, back it off until it isn't touching the frame, adjust the moveable blade guide to be about 1/8" too high, and then turn the third (vertical bolt) until the blade is at the correct height.  If you put too much tension on that bolt, the vertical blade guide arm will chatter as you move it in and out.  FF member Larry had another version of this mod you may want to ask him about.

Can't offer any help with your head dropping issue...never saw that on mine.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

manoverboard

Quote from: 4x4American on November 22, 2014, 09:42:40 PM
Howdy folks. 

So on my TK 2000 diesel with 55 hours I am having problems with the head lowering.  It lowers whether its in the cut or not.  I think that the problem is a sticky valve.  I wonder if the hydraulic oil they put in from the factory is not the best stuff and if I put better stuff in maybe that might solve the problem?  I figure there could be condensation or aeration in the oil.  The valve's detent may also need to be adjusted, but at 55 hours I feel that it shouldn't have to be.  Has anyone one here had to play with the detent on their TK?  Where I was sawing today the temperature was around freezing and I had the mill running pretty much all day.  The hydraulic oil stayed around 55 degrees fahrenheit.

Thanks

I'm curious to find out if the Allen screws in the cogs may have come loose or backed out. Wouldn't that allow for uncontrolled slip? I've not experienced any hydraulic problems with my TK2000 (125 hrs).

The guide roller flutter issue is my current battle. I've tried the nylon bolts, helped some, but the design leave much to be desired. Also check your coolant spout, my tip came off and got wedged between the blade and guide roller, yep... lost that blade.
TimberKing 2000, 35hp Diesel, Kubota L3800 w/loader

ladylake

With 1/4" down pressure and some sort of plastic slide on the upper arm there should be no flutter, make sure you have 1/4 " down pressure as it will saw better than the 1/8" TK sets them at. I can see where it might flutter with 1/8" down pressure.  Also make sure to have the blade tensioned when adding a plastic slide and adjusting it. I'd put a good sized piece of plastic in there instead of just a bolt as that could wear fast.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Larry

I had a little problem with the carriage up and down just one time.  The movement was super slow, both up and down.  I worked it for about 5 minutes and it returned to normal.  I thought maybe an air bubble someplace in the system.  Its never returned.  My hydraulics have been super dependable and work great except for that one tiny hiccup.

I'll start a new thread about the guide arm modifications.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

4x4American

Holy smokes lots of replies!  I can tell where all yawl were today...proberly where I shoulda been, not working!  Anyways, I just got on here for a minute, was sawing all day.  I will go back through and answer questions more thoroughly later on not enough energy right now
Boy, back in my day..

xlogger

you have a great machine there I would really think hard before I made that switch. At first I had problems with my setworks but after more hours it really got pretty good. I think that the white plastic that slid up and down with your cutter head need to be slim down some. I didn't do my but after about 300 hours it got better itself. Some of the problem also was my fault. If you go by the blade being 1/16" its really a little more. When you start cutting at a high height it might say you are cutting 1/8 or 3/16 over and it will adjust as you get lower. Check your boards when you cut a large logs after you finish sawing. But as always some will be off very little, but this is rough cut lumber remember.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Magicman

Quote from: 4x4American on November 23, 2014, 11:02:15 PMI'd like to put up some pictures but just cant figure it out, this site is kinda cornfusing

Review the "Picture Posting" thread at the very bottom of the index page.  LINK
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

4x4American

Quote from: xlogger on November 24, 2014, 05:06:59 AM
you have a great machine there I would really think hard before I made that switch. At first I had problems with my setworks but after more hours it really got pretty good. I think that the white plastic that slid up and down with your cutter head need to be slim down some. I didn't do my but after about 300 hours it got better itself. Some of the problem also was my fault. If you go by the blade being 1/16" its really a little more. When you start cutting at a high height it might say you are cutting 1/8 or 3/16 over and it will adjust as you get lower. Check your boards when you cut a large logs after you finish sawing. But as always some will be off very little, but this is rough cut lumber remember.

yup
Boy, back in my day..

xlogger

I think if you follow the instructions in your owner manual you should be able to adjust the machine yourself and save that cost of a yearly service charge. The TK is not that hard of a machine to adjust if it needs it. I got my machine used and the ones I got it from showed me very little about it. The first year I did call TK to ask a few questions but just sitting back and taking a good look at it I figured out mostly with what I needed to do, with help here on the forum. I'd like to have a diesel on my 2000 where is southeastern ADK?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

ladylake


Any mill set up right using the right blade will cut straight lumber, that movable guide mod is a must on the TK 2000, then adjust to 1/4" + down pressure and set the guide flange about 1/4" behind the back of the blade and make sure the blade is level with the deck and you will saw straight lumber fast.  As xlogger  said the 2000 is easy to work on and you'll save a lot of money and time doing it your self.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

4x4American

Quote from: xlogger on November 25, 2014, 05:01:36 AM
I think if you follow the instructions in your owner manual you should be able to adjust the machine yourself and save that cost of a yearly service charge. The TK is not that hard of a machine to adjust if it needs it. I got my machine used and the ones I got it from showed me very little about it. The first year I did call TK to ask a few questions but just sitting back and taking a good look at it I figured out mostly with what I needed to do, with help here on the forum. I'd like to have a diesel on my 2000 where is southeastern ADK?

yea I know it's all just nuts and bolts
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

Quote from: ladylake on November 25, 2014, 06:10:16 AM

Any mill set up right using the right blade will cut straight lumber, that movable guide mod is a must on the TK 2000, then adjust to 1/4" + down pressure and set the guide flange about 1/4" behind the back of the blade and make sure the blade is level with the deck and you will saw straight lumber fast.  As xlogger  said the 2000 is easy to work on and you'll save a lot of money and time doing it your self.  Steve

yup
Boy, back in my day..

ladylake


If you want to saw straight lumber fast set at 1/4" down pressure as both Cooks and WM recommend.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

slider

I think I would listen to the man with over 9000 hrs on one.and sawing accurate.
al glenn

Ga Mtn Man

I agree.  Without a significant amount of down-pressure, you might just as well  remove the roller guides.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Will_Johnson

We are closed on weekends however our NE dealer Bill Mitchell contacted this customer at 7:20 yesterday (Monday) morning. I have to this point personally sent, I believe, 4 emails to this customer checking in and connecting him with resources within our organization. Both our in-house techs and Bill Mitchell gave unstinting attention to this customer's concerns yesterday.

Because we have a dealer nearby we do feel that bringing the mill to the dealer would be the best option here. This way any parts needed would be available, we could cut and test the mill against another mill, swap components if necessary to eliminate variables, all tools would be available etc. We had offered to bring the mill back down to the customer at no charge.

I have just spoken to Bill and asked him to go down to this customer's location as soon as possible, though we do not feel that this is the most direct path for achieving everyone's shared goal of getting him up and running to his satisfaction as soon as possible.

It's impossible to prevent problems. As I often joke, machines are only human. What we can control is how we respond to those problems. I would be hard-pressed to imagine any company devoting more resources or concern to a customer's concerns than TimberKing has in the last 24 hours to this customer.


beenthere

Will, sometimes it is hard to win. Keep up the good work. smiley_thumbsup
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

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