iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Sharpen then set or set then sharpen?

Started by golddredger, October 29, 2014, 01:13:33 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

golddredger

What have you guys that do your own blades found best? Sharpen then set after or set then sharpen? And if you could explain why that would be very helpful. Thanks
Home built bandsaw mill and trailer for a mini logging operation. Lots of chainsaws and love the woods.

terrifictimbersllc

Setting first eliminates having to de-burr the blade.  The burr resulting from sharpening interferes with the setting process, as it interferes with measuring set. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

36 coupe

If you set after sharpening the tooth face is no longer at 90 degrees.It takes on a negative angle.Not good for cutting wood.The tip of the tooth does the cutting.

Banjo picker

That's the two reasons I set then sharpen.  Besides Tom told me it was best to do it that way...no need to question why.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Chuck White

Set first, then sharpen, less hastle and less time!

This way you will be cutting with the entire "chisel part" of the tooth.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

golddredger

Perfect! Thanks now back to blade prepping! 8)
Home built bandsaw mill and trailer for a mini logging operation. Lots of chainsaws and love the woods.

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on October 29, 2014, 05:40:36 AM
Setting first eliminates having to de-burr the blade.  The burr resulting from sharpening interferes with the setting process, as it interferes with measuring set.

So de-burring the blade isn't necessary?  I've been wondering if it makes any difference.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

customsawyer

I sharpen then set. Keep in mind that I push my blades further than most so my tips are so rounded that I can't get a accurate set if I do that first. I don't deburr my blades I set the setter up on zero with the burr on the blade. When the lumber knocks the burr off all is the same. ;)
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Nomad

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on October 29, 2014, 08:33:06 PM
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on October 29, 2014, 05:40:36 AM
Setting first eliminates having to de-burr the blade.  The burr resulting from sharpening interferes with the setting process, as it interferes with measuring set.

So de-burring the blade isn't necessary?  I've been wondering if it makes any difference.

     Not a bit.  First or second time that blade goes through the wood, any burr is long gone.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on October 29, 2014, 08:33:06 PM
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on October 29, 2014, 05:40:36 AM
Setting first eliminates having to de-burr the blade.  The burr resulting from sharpening interferes with the setting process, as it interferes with measuring set.

So de-burring the blade isn't necessary?  I've been wondering if it makes any difference.
Set, sharpen (now there is a burr), then saw with the blade, it is gone in an instant. 

Sharpen, there is a burr.  Set (including measuring the set), there is a 1-2 thousandths burr that bugs me.  When I did it in this order, I would pull the blade over a piece of hardwood which would remove the burr.

I think the other point 36 coupe brought up is more important.

But it probably doesn't make much difference, as I've done it the other way and so do others.  I think set, sharpen is a bit easier.

DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

woodmills1

The last few years I just push the blades.  They are so good now I get nearly a thousand feet in soft wood, then sharpen and do another thousand  in hard or soft.
I HATE TO SET
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

YellowHammer

I set then sharpen most of the time, but for the bands that I push in real hard wood, or when I can really see a dull or rounded tooth tip, I usually sharpen, deburr, then set, because as CustomSawyer has said, setting on a dull tooth can be inaccurate.

YH



YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

pineywoods

I norrmally set first and then sharpen, but there is one case where I sharpen first. I do some sharpening for other sawyers and once in a while get a blade that some DIY type has ground off just the face of the tooth so much that there is only a nub of a tooth left. May take as many as half a dozen passes around the sharpener to get the teeth back to shape before setting and then sharpening again...I do find that sharpening and then increasing the set a bunch does result in a band that does not cut as well in some types of wood, cypress in particular...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Thank You Sponsors!