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Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods  (Read 258998 times)

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Offline Bob_T

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1300 on: August 12, 2017, 08:48:03 pm »
I'm only halfway through reading the 65 pages in this thread and I haven't had my mill (1992 LT30) long enough to learn how to use it, much less try and improve it but I did make a minor mod.

When I got the mill the blade guide roller adjustment arm was flopping all over, up down and left and right.  Every time I thought I was  making progress by adjusting the cam bolts per the manual, I'd turn something the wrong way and be back at square one.  I ended up engraving a line on the bolt heads marking the cam high points.  Now I at least have an idea where the cam high and low points are and which direction things are going to move when I make an adjustment.
1959 FWD Model 286 Dump Truck
1955 Allis Chalmers HD-6G Crawler Loader
1941 GMC CCKW 6X6
Wood-Mizer LT30 G18

Online Dave Shepard

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1301 on: August 13, 2017, 10:46:53 am »
What is the issue with two tanks? nn 950 hours and 9.5 years the only hydraulic issue I've had was one bad solenoid.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1302 on: August 13, 2017, 11:03:03 am »
What is the issue with two tanks? nn 950 hours and 9.5 years the only hydraulic issue I've had was one bad solenoid.

No matter what I have done to get the return oil to flow to both tanks evenly it doesnt work very good, so I get over flow out the vent cap on the outside pump/tank ALL the time. If some one has a hint that would help me out here I wouldn't bother. The return hoses and fitting are EXACTLY the same, but that doesnt seem to help much.   
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4.
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1303 on: August 13, 2017, 11:12:06 am »
What is the issue with two tanks? nn 950 hours and 9.5 years the only hydraulic issue I've had was one bad solenoid.

No matter what I have done to get the return oil to flow to both tanks evenly it doesnt work very good, so I get over flow out the vent cap on the outside pump/tank ALL the time. If some one has a hint that would help me out here I wouldn't bother. The return hoses and fitting are EXACTLY the same, but that doesnt seem to help much.

So what would happen if you closed that vent and then the oil would just go to the second tank ?
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Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1304 on: August 13, 2017, 11:29:03 am »
What is the issue with two tanks? nn 950 hours and 9.5 years the only hydraulic issue I've had was one bad solenoid.

No matter what I have done to get the return oil to flow to both tanks evenly it doesnt work very good, so I get over flow out the vent cap on the outside pump/tank ALL the time. If some one has a hint that would help me out here I wouldn't bother. The return hoses and fitting are EXACTLY the same, but that doesnt seem to help much.
Flowing out of one vent is what happens when one pump isn't  working (for me has been total pump or solenoid failure).  Is it possible one of your pumps isn't pumping as fast as the other?
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   2001 WM LT40SHDD (42HP Kubota, Accuset2, FAO's, Lubemizer, debarker, hydraulics everywhere), Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.

Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1305 on: August 13, 2017, 12:08:43 pm »
What is the issue with two tanks? nn 950 hours and 9.5 years the only hydraulic issue I've had was one bad solenoid.

No matter what I have done to get the return oil to flow to both tanks evenly it doesnt work very good, so I get over flow out the vent cap on the outside pump/tank ALL the time. If some one has a hint that would help me out here I wouldn't bother. The return hoses and fitting are EXACTLY the same, but that doesnt seem to help much.
Flowing out of one vent is what happens when one pump isn't  working (for me has been total pump or solenoid failure).  Is it possible one of your pumps isn't pumping as fast as the other?

I have tested the pump flow by disconnecting power from each pump separately and the hydraulics seem to be about the same on each pump.
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4.
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built my self

Offline BigZ La

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1306 on: August 13, 2017, 12:26:28 pm »
I would put a pressure gauge and run each pump separately under normal lineup. Find out if one is running higher pressure than the other, it could be something as simple as a plugged suction or a bad pump.

Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1307 on: August 13, 2017, 04:04:32 pm »
What is the issue with two tanks? nn 950 hours and 9.5 years the only hydraulic issue I've had was one bad solenoid.

No matter what I have done to get the return oil to flow to both tanks evenly it doesnt work very good, so I get over flow out the vent cap on the outside pump/tank ALL the time. If some one has a hint that would help me out here I wouldn't bother. The return hoses and fitting are EXACTLY the same, but that doesnt seem to help much.
Flowing out of one vent is what happens when one pump isn't  working (for me has been total pump or solenoid failure).  Is it possible one of your pumps isn't pumping as fast as the other?

I have tested the pump flow by disconnecting power from each pump separately and the hydraulics seem to be about the same on each pump.
Have you examined the connections across the bottoms of the two pumps to see if the bore of the fittings and connecting hose is maximized?
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT   2001 WM LT40SHDD (42HP Kubota, Accuset2, FAO's, Lubemizer, debarker, hydraulics everywhere), Peterson WPF 10-30 with chain slabber. LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.

Offline Nicefeller

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1308 on: August 13, 2017, 06:28:25 pm »
Another thing to consider is the hose lengths. The longer hose will have more resistance to flow and the flow rate will decrease slightly. The only reason I mention legth is because I encountered a similar problem with fuel flow rates.

Offline Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1309 on: August 13, 2017, 07:54:06 pm »
the hose length was the first thing I did a change up on and had a hose and T fitting made out of that slippery red silicone hose by the local Pumps and Pressure shop. Also made sure that the path they run is very smooth with no sharp bends.

 They also did a pressure test with an electronic test system and pressure was within the spec range and with in 5 PSI of each other.

Have not checked the line that connects the tanks across the bottom. Didnt think of that one.

Thanks for the reminder terrific
     
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
2001 Dodge 1500 4x4.
2007 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 almost Super
2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built my self

Offline DDW_OR

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1310 on: August 15, 2017, 01:13:19 pm »
cleaning band blade before removal

before i take the dull blade off i idle down the engine to the lowest speed, then engage the blade clutch, then use an angle grinder with a wire wheel to remove any buildup on the band blade.
i do all of this while standing BEHIND the blade teeth.
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Offline pineywoods

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1311 on: August 19, 2017, 11:06:20 am »
JP clutch re-visited.  Local sawyer just back to sawing after some extensive surgery. Found he couldn't pull the clutch lever on his lt40 super. Them kubota diesel engines are heavy  ::) I remembered a post by member JP green about adding a helper spring to reduce the force needed to engage the clutch. We used a 6 inch long piece cut from a stretch type garage door spring. Wedge a couple of the coils apart and cut with a hand held grinder. Bending a hook on each end is a bit of a job. the bottom end hooks under the pin on the end of the brake band. Upper end hooks to a small eyebolt through a hole drilled behind the water tank. With the clutch engaged, there should be a little tension on the spring. Dis-engage the clutch and the spring will support some of the engine weight. Makes a big difference in the effort required to pull the clutch lever. Not as good as an autoclutch  option, but it would make a big difference if the old shoulder is showing some wear and tear.

 

 
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club

Offline pineywoods

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1312 on: August 19, 2017, 11:22:53 am »
Buck $1.98 redneck autoclutch for woodmizers.. Clutch lever too hard to pull for whatever reason ? Short piece of 2 inch pvc pipe and 6 foot of rope. Holes drilled in the pipe and rope attached. Return mill head all the way back to the hitch end. Drop the pipe down over knob on the clutch lever, the tie the other end to the hitch / sawshed post etc. Hold pipe in place with right hand and actuate forward lever. The head moves forward about 6 inches and pulls clutch lever nicely. The pipe will just pop off . Worked good for leroyC after a heart bypass...
 

 
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club