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Profile Grinding VS 'drag rock' grinding

Started by prittgers, September 14, 2014, 09:38:30 PM

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prittgers

A friend bought me some blades yesterday for sharpening.  Many of them had a negative hook angle on them.  It would have been surprising if they would have cut wood efficiently or at all! 

It's not worth it to regrind these blades to factory profile.  You can see from the photo that a number of passes have to be made to re-make the gullet transition to the tooth face. 

The end take-away is that using a profile grinder like the CBN (cubic boron nitride) coated steel wheels are the best way to keep your blades sharp and truly efficient.  You can still do a great job with a 'rock' grinder, but you can see from the photo that it's easy to destroy the profile that makes the string of tiny chisels work efficiently.

 
Parker Rittgers
Professional Sawyer, Retired, well, not really !
WoodMizer Alaska | 907.360.2497 cell 336.5143 office BevelSider.com ? Everything BevelSider
907.336.5143
prittgers@aksamill.com

NMFP

I find the culprit of negative hook angle sharpening is those using a chainsaw sharpener for a grinding device.  They aren't designed for that and therefore, shouldn't be use for sharpening bands.

I will sharpen bands that were done incorrectly, but the customer pays dearly for that service. 

There is a service close by me that does sharpening for primarily Amish and Mennonite.  All they use are self manufactured sharpening devices that use a grinding wheel and a pusher that is designed to elevate the grinding wheel as the tooth back angle changes.  Very crude set up but they get lots of customers because they sharpen bands for a little over $3 each.  I guess cheap sells for them!!  Quality sure doesn't!!

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