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blades

Started by wink, September 14, 2014, 12:56:15 PM

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wink

I got my new 52" circular blade hot, and then i had hammered but i still shows where the hot spots are and it still gets hot in the spots, is my new blade junk or can those spots be fixed.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Wink, Welcome to the FF!
I have a bandmill and know nothing about a circle mill.

Lots of people on here do though....help is on the way.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

beenthere

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Without a bit more information, can't say much.

But for sure I'd suggest a re-visit with the business that hammered your blade.

Been sawing long?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

wink

not long , started late last fall and been trying all spring to get this mill cutting good, to busy most of the summer , now back at it

Ron Wenrich

Are you saying you have blue spots on the blade?  You have to figure out what is making it hot.  I don't think it's junk, but those blue spots will be there.  I'm pretty sure I got some hot like that.  Especially when you get a piece of wood stuck between the saw and the offbearing table.  Talk to the saw doc about it. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

wink

yes blue spots , just sitting there in some sun  the blade will be hotter  in those spots i have had it hammered 2 times different places. comes back the same , when i start to saw those spots get hotter than the rest of my blade and then starts to wobble, today with my most of the blade was 50 degrees the spots were 80

beenthere

wink
Do you have this publication...?

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

This is a .pdf version of a very good guide for circular saws. Maybe it will help, and along with the vast knowledge on this forum, you can get up and running.

Will need to get more specific with what is happening, and what has been happening, and what has been tried. Pics would be helpful as well.
A primer on posting pics here can be found at "Home" and on the Forum "Behind the Forum", first thread there.

And sun on the blade doesn't help.  ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

wink

i do have that book and i have used it , I have done all that's in there for adjustments from machining collars to replacing old bearings with new pillow block , checking rails and carriage for level ,plumb bob on blade , hangs good , checking lead  that was about 1/32 until i start to saw then heat changes it, i keep coming back to those hot spots

wink

I know the sun is not good but i cant saw enough timber to build my pole barn over saw , that's another problem i am having

Magicman

I also am a "band" guy, but anyway, Welcome to the Forestry Forum, wink.   8)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

wink


bandmiller2

Wink, welcome, where are you located and who did you get your new saw from.?? Just sitting in the sun the blue spots will be hotter than the rest of the  saw same as a dark car will get hotter than a light colored one. Those blue spots are usally lumps that most saw smiths would hammer out. You may have to play with your lead, you may need more than 1/32". If you could find another smith to level and retension your saw. As Ron Wenrich said be very carefull bark or pieces of slab don't rub between the saw and the table, that was a mistake I made when I started sawing had to have a freashly hammered saw rehammered  the smith just smiled and told me how I screwed up.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Chuck White

I also am a band guy, but was wondering if your sawshop hammered it correctly, right-hand vs left-hand or vise versa!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Ron Wenrich

You absolutely need the sun off of the saw.  It will cause you all sorts of problems.  That sunlight will draw your blade, and that will cause you to rub your saw, and that creates more heat.  Even a little sunlight can cause the problem.  On a newer mill we put in, I had to have doors put up so I wouldn't catch any afternoon sun.  You end up with uneven heating.

There are 2 solutions, given you don't have a permanent building.  The first is to saw on cloudy days.  The second is to build a temporary shade.

I built a temporary shade on my first mill.  I simply put up 4 corner posts that weren't much more than a 2x4.  2 of them I nailed to the husk.  Then, I made a skirt of 1x6 around them.  All I did after that was to put slabs on top of the skirts for a roof.  Whenever I'd see sunlight, I would put a piece of slab to cover the hole.  I worked like that for several months while I worked out bugs.

Don't get to excited about the lead being an exact number like 1/32.  Different saws sometimes need different lead.  You set the lead to where the saw runs right.  I had one saw that needed 3/8" to run right.  If your saw is dragging against the cant on the gig back, you'll need more lead.  If its cutting in, it needs more lead.  If you're cutting out, then you have too much lead.

How about a description of your mill and operation.  A lot of times that helps.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

backwoods sawyer

The third option is to add a water flow to the blade.
Sun light had been an issue with this mill as it is in full sun when it leaves the roof over the park position, but a light flow of water on both blades solved those issues. 3/8 copper tubing mounted so it layes on the inside of the saw at the hub is what was used.
Having the water on the saws also disipated heat genrated from "Shaving down to grade" which is stressfull on saws.



  

  
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

Peter Drouin

The sun will mess up the saw, With all the things that can go wrong with a saw like that ,I'm glad I have a WM.
I know circle mills are faster , But I think you spend ½ the time working on them.
And yes I know nothing about them only what I read here. I all most got one. And glad I did not, I'm not smart enough to run one  :D :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

wink

Thank you bandmiller i am located midcoast Maine  i got my saw from u s blades in Bangor,  i put it on my mill
and it got hot before  i knew something was wrong, i sent it back to be hammered  but it still had hot spots in it, i tried to use it again and those spots got hot and it started to wobble then i sent to quality blades & supply and told them i needed hot spots hammered out , right hand at 650,   i have to assume they did what i asked them to do

wink

Thanks Ron for the info i will put up some sun blocks, and adjust my lead

wink

#2 lane 52' blade 16 ' carriage  3-71 Detroit power ,carriage still friction  no hydros yet or top saws cant seem to get one blade to work

whitepine2

 Play with the lead I set mine up by the book,no good like someone said 3/8 lead made a difference on my saw. Last week I was cutting
a 16' oak 12" boards 1 1/2" thick and the saw was heating some after checking things out the feed belt was slipping so shortened it
about 5" and applied belt dressing wow what a difference went through like butter,must have been given trouble for some time so many things can be wrong. I had to have my saw hammered twice as well but has been going for years pretty much trouble free hope this helps you good luck. 

bandmiller2

Peter, their are some teething pains getting a circular mill up and running but here all you hear about are the problems and not all the mills out there running every day. No one posts "my circular mill ran dandy today" Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

dgdrls

Welcome to the FF Wink,

As others have indicated get the sun off the mill, heat is the enemy and differential heat on either side of the blade is a killer.

If I remember correctly the blue spots from the heat are now more brittle than the balance of the
saw, they will react a little different.

Bits and shanks are correct size and good?

One tool that may help quite a bit is an infra-red non-contact thermometer.  this would help you nail down
where on the saw the heat is originating from.

Let us know what you find.

Best
DGDrls



Peter Drouin

Quote from: bandmiller2 on September 15, 2014, 08:50:16 PM
Peter, their are some teething pains getting a circular mill up and running but here all you hear about are the problems and not all the mills out there running every day. No one posts "my circular mill ran dandy today" Frank C.





Well then, Is there some guys here have circular mills run nice and how much bf do they do in a day. Alone or with help?
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Ron Wenrich

Mine always ran good.  We kept on top of maintenance.  My saw maintenance consisted of 5-10 minutes to sharpen the blade, usually done twice a day.  If I hit metal, that would cause more sharpenings or maybe tooth replacement.  Shanks were usually replaced yearly, before winter set in and frozen logs. 

The chipper was sharpened every day or two, and knives replaced weekly.  We had a weekly greasing and checking for any weld breaks.  Oil change in the gen set was every 2 weeks or so.  The hydraulic filters were on a rotation system.  We would also check for hydraulic leaks and factor those into the maintenance.  The key was to not have downtime when the full crew was there.

Bad maintenance of either the saw or the support equipment will cause downtime. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Peter Drouin

Quote from: Ron Wenrich on September 16, 2014, 06:34:50 AM


Bad maintenance of either the saw or the support equipment will cause downtime. 





smiley_thumbsup
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

wink

Thanks everyone , i did shade my blade and still adjusting lead  trying to get it right , heading to mill soon I will update later

wink

Back from mill , adjusted lead more  cloudy and shaded blade i cut a perfect pine board , although it has worm holes in it because it took me so long to get mill right, i never thought sun would bother blade so much , i stopped with one board i wanted to end the day on a high note, thank 's to all

03westernstar

Glad to hear its cutting, a circle mill is a extremely simple most complicated thing ever to get working correctly.I have a Frick it to has been a battle.

FarmingSawyer

Wink, where ya at in Midcoast? I live in Union. I have some experience with Circ mills and would be glad to give an eye to yours if you're close by......You're mill sounds very close to the tie mill I worked at for years.
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

wink

Thank you farmingsawyer, my mill is in Bristol mils , Damariscotta then about 5 miles towards ocean it would be great if you have the time someday .  wink

FarmingSawyer

We'll have to keep in touch and see how the fall goes...Darmiscotta isn't too far from there and always worth the trip......
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

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