Blade Deflection question on Wm LT40 super

[flatrock58]

I have been going through my manual on my 2001 WM lt40 Super and when adjusting the blade guide deflection it says set your blade at 15" then deflect the blade until it reads 14 7/8".  I see many post in the forum stating that you should have a 1/4" deflection not a 1/8" deflection.  Did this change or am I missing something?

Steve

[Magicman]

Sounds like a typo.  It should be ¼" deflection.  Then later my manual states that if any major changes are made when adjusting the blade guide tilt, that you should go back and verify the ¼" deflection.

[Ga Mtn Man]

I checked my manual in both the routine and complete alignment procedure sections and both say 14¾".  As MM said, it must just be a typo.

[flatrock58]

Thanks Guys.  I guess I will go back and lower it another 1/8".

Steve

[Dave Shepard]

1/4" here on '92 and '93 LT40 and '08 LT40 Super.

[flatrock58]

This is what my manual says.




 


Steve

[flatrock58]

Will the extra 1/8" make a big difference in how the blade acts?

Steve

[bandmiller2]

Steve it probably won't make any difference, try it. Frank C.

[drobertson]

 I ran 1/8" for a while,  it does help in my opinion to have the 1/4" deflection. Not earth shaking but worth the little effort it takes.  Blade alignment, and drive belt tension is equally as important.

[warren46]

I had a visit by a representative of Lennox come look at my mill regarding premature broken blades.  He suggested I reduce the deflection on my roller guides since excessive deflection causes more flexing of the blade.  The flexing can result in fatigue cracks in the blades.  It makes sense to me that to much deflection can cause fatigue.  If 1/8" works it may have a positive effect on blade life.

[terrifictimbersllc]

My 13 yr old manual has the 1/8 deflection which is what I've used.  Would like to hear from WM if  is a typo. 

[Larry]

I've always wondered why we use any deflection.  I've always thought it was to dampen vibration from using loose belts but that is just a guess.

[Magicman]

Without some deflection there would be no way to control the blade with the blade guides.

[Peter Drouin]

Without some deflection there would be no way to control the blade with the blade guides.

[drobertson]

I was told that the deflection takes some of the load off the band wheels,  but even so, the speed of the cut with belt tension will determine the blade through the cut.  My re-saw has no deflection and moves right along rather quickly.   Alignment is critical, without dispute.   I've seen a few with plenty of deflection on several band mills, and the results were horrible.  These are not circle mills by any stretch of the imagination.  It really boils down to what is acceptable in saw time and product uniformity.

[Chuck White]

I've always wondered why we use any deflection.  I've always thought it was to dampen vibration from using loose belts but that is just a guess.

I've always kind of thought that coming off the rubber belts, into the log/cant, there would be an error, in that the belts won't run true, but the steel blade guide wheels will true up the blade.

Just sayin'!

[bandmiller2]

A good reason for down pressure on the roller guides is to keep them turning, too little down pressure and the band tends to skate over them that could lead to flat spots. If you can see the back of your roller guides put a mark with a majic marker you can then tell if they slow down or stop indicating a band that's starting to dive. Frank C.