mobile dimension edger

willysjeeps · September 11, 2014, 12:42:41 PM

Hi Folks,

Thought someone could help me here with a question I have. I am running my Mobile Dimension 127 I purchased it used a few months back. It is a mid-90's model and I am finally getting the hang of running it. You might say, I'm getting dangerous.

What I don't understand is the way the saw came set up, it had the large 19" edger on the bottom and an 11" edger on the top of the edger shaft. I know why the 19" is on the bottom, but how would running an 11 inch above it actually edge anything as it is always going to be roughly 4" shorter? Does anyone run a second 19" on top to get true symmetry in edging? That way the edging will always be up to 8" on top and bottom? Also, the larger edger up top would help in larger beams, unless the extra drag would load my belts too much. I understand when you put several of the edger blades on, I just don't know why you would miss-match with the large on the bottom and smaller one on top.

Also, can anyone recommend places to get sawblade bits that are affordable?

Thanks for any feedback.

Magicman · September 11, 2014, 01:38:04 PM

I do not now MD, but Welcome to the Forestry Forum, willysjeeps. Someone will help.

backwoods sawyer · September 11, 2014, 02:05:16 PM

Only made saw dust with a moble dimention once but it and every other vertical edger I have been around ran balanced saws.

May have been I got an 11", better then nothing kind of thing.

There are several on here that are fermiliar with your mill and can answer your question better then I.

Welcome to the forum ;)

DanG · September 11, 2014, 02:06:40 PM

They just left the upper blade on there because it isn't in the way, as long as it is all the way up. It should not come into play with the large edger in place. There isn't enough room to install a second large blade, as it would interfere with the main blade.

willysjeeps · September 11, 2014, 05:23:21 PM

Thanks! that makes sense. Getting the mill up and running was one thing, learning how to use and saw lumber effectively is another!

DanG · September 11, 2014, 05:42:24 PM

The MD is about as user friendly as sawmills get, but there is still plenty to learn. Feel free to ask, and I'll try to help any way I can. ;)

Oh, and welcome to the Forum. I was beginning to think I was the only MD sawyer left. 8) :D

dgdrls · September 14, 2014, 08:07:44 AM

Quote from: willysjeeps on September 11, 2014, 12:42:41 PM
Hi Folks,

Thought someone could help me here with a question I have. I am running my Mobile Dimension 127 I purchased it used a few months back. It is a mid-90's model and I am finally getting the hang of running it. You might say, I'm getting dangerous.

What I don't understand is the way the saw came set up, it had the large 19" edger on the bottom and an 11" edger on the top of the edger shaft. I know why the 19" is on the bottom, but how would running an 11 inch above it actually edge anything as it is always going to be roughly 4" shorter? Does anyone run a second 19" on top to get true symmetry in edging? That way the edging will always be up to 8" on top and bottom? Also, the larger edger up top would help in larger beams, unless the extra drag would load my belts too much. I understand when you put several of the edger blades on, I just don't know why you would miss-match with the large on the bottom and smaller one on top.

Also, can anyone recommend places to get sawblade bits that are affordable?

Thanks for any feedback.

Welcome to the FF willysjeep. great place, with lots of great folks.

Regarding your question about bits, order through Menominee Saw. They are a FF sponsor and will take care of you.
http://www.menomineesaw.com/

FWIW I also think they have one of the coolest business cards too 8)

DGDrls

thecfarm · September 14, 2014, 08:14:10 PM

willysjeeps,welcome to the forum. I saw one of those at a show in Maine. What's the plan for the lumber?

4x4American · September 14, 2014, 09:58:26 PM

We have a mobile dimension back on the farm. It still gets run quite a bit. Both the edgers should be the same size. They cut close enough to get it done without touching the big-un. The reason your mill came with different sized wheels is unknown to me. Contact Mobile Dimension to get the right sized sawblade. Maybe they can ship some bits in the same box to save shipping costs.

willysjeeps · October 03, 2014, 02:09:43 PM

Thanks for the replies. Yea, having too different sized edgers didn't make sense, but I think DanG is right, they just left it on. I am using the mill right now to mill siding and timbers for my barn that is falling down and about to kill a few gophers if it does. Who knows, if I get good enough at this, I may quit my day job ;-)

As an aside, I read some earlier posts about inaccurate cuts with the horizontal adjustment wheel. I have the same problem and liked what you did Dan by putting a tape measure and laser. I did the same, but I bought a magnetic tape online for $5 and a laser at Lowes for $15 and it is working great.

Banjo picker · October 03, 2014, 10:53:10 PM

Welcome to the forum there willysjeeps. I too have some willys ... a couple of wagons and a pickup. Banjo

oakiemac · October 27, 2014, 08:28:34 PM

Hey Dang I'm still here so you aren't the only one left!

What Dang said is correct, I put the larger edger blade on my mill and just left the small blade all the way up. You wont miss having the small blade on the bottom-much more versitle machine with the larger edger blade.

cleargrain · October 27, 2014, 11:02:46 PM

Howdy Willisjeeps,

Leaving the larger edger on the bottom allows wider cuts, but doesn't necessarily make you faster.
We cut all the board n' batt, interior trim, beams, posts, and some flooring for our house with our '79 MD 127 and we could cut a lot faster with two of the same size edgers on. Mostly because you don't have to flatten the top of the log to start getting boards and for siding you need the main blade to get 10 - 12" wide boards. Or if you did flatten the top, you can set top edger down and get 2 boards per cut. We did this a lot when cutting trim to get the center out and used the small off cut for stickers. But, when we wanted 6 x 6 posts, 6 x beams, or were picky about the flooring the larger edger went on.

Like you said, lots of learning still going on.

-Scott

willysjeeps · November 09, 2014, 10:27:53 AM

Thanks Guys, this has been helpful. I have a follow up question with a problem with my large edger. Like Scott said, I am keeping the large edger on as I am in need of cutting beams. The problem I have been having is the bottom edger is riding up on on my, and when I am in a large beam it suddenly rides up about 5 feet into a beam. I did measure the track and there seems to be a 3/8" positive camber across the 26' of track, bowing in the middle. I imagine that is to compensate for the weight of the power head and blades. When it does ride up in a large beam, it will stop the blade as it pinches. The bottom edger seems to be tight without any bearing slop. is the bottom edger adjustable and might this be the problem? I am also noticing the main blade leaving a mark on the boards as if the bottom edger isn't tracking right. I do not see any wobble in bottom edger. I am including a few pics.

Thanks for any input. I figured I would ask the forum first, then will call Mobile folks.

DanG · November 10, 2014, 09:11:58 AM

It sounds like a lead problem. You should have a slight amount of lead in the edger. I have found 1/64" to be about right for the small edger, so 1/32 would probably work on the large one. You need to check your lumber frequently for equal thickness on both ends when making deep cuts with the edger. It won't have any effect on shallow cuts, like making vertically oriented boards of 1 or 2 inches thickness. If a board hits anything while dragging back, it can knock the lead out, so be sure to check the next few boards if that happens.

willysjeeps · November 10, 2014, 09:33:11 AM

Ok, thanks Dan I will check once I get back to milling. I gather by lead, you mean a positive or negative relative tilt of edger, with the leading edge being slightly positive (higher) than trailing edge. How is that adjusted? I gather it must be the entire shaft or is that done right where the blade mounts on shaft?

You are right that is it is not affecting my smaller dimensional lumber, like 5/4x8 boards running with the main blade.

DanG · November 10, 2014, 11:02:03 AM

The leading edge should be slightly lower than the trailing edge. The adjustment is on the bracket that secures the lower end of the shaft to the carriage. It is a large set-screw with a locking nut on it, located just above the lower edger blade.

willysjeeps · November 13, 2014, 05:07:56 PM

Thanks Dan, I milled a nice 6x6 today and it was true on both ends. I wound up loosening both the top and lower bearings/set screws and it was pushing the top forward that gave the negative 1/32-1/64 leading edge alignment. My tape measure only goes shows 32nd's so I kinda guessed. The end result worked fine tho.

Back to milling barn beams. Tomorrow, 8x12's.