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Winch Problems

Started by Horselog, September 02, 2014, 07:41:22 PM

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Horselog

I have a mid 70's D3 with a PTO driven Rome winch on the back, I believe it's hydraulically actuated.  I'm just starting to use the winch and am having a few little problems.  The first day I used it, it would wind up decent, it seemed a little low on power, but I figured i'd fiddle with it some down the road.  The second day, it wouldn't even pull the dozer backwards on a flat with the brakes off.  I was still able to pull logs (without using the wind up feature on the winch), and I pulled several, then it started slipping and wouldn't allow me to pull any load at all.  It would seem there would be some adjustment somewhere.  Does anyone have any experience with these type of winches?  I'm told it's almost identical to some older John Deere winches.  Any thoughts appreciated.
Benjamin Harris
Appalachian Mountains of Virginia
horse_logger@me.com

coxy

can you take any pics of it

H60 Hawk Pilot

How is your Winch Controlled ?

Is it controlled Hydraulically or All Lever Controls ?

I have knowledge of different style winches and how they operate & related problems. I'm not familiar with your winch set up on a D-3 CAT.

Winch problems that are hyd. operated start off with O-Ring Leakage, and related winch control functions. After these control problems are eliminated.. then we go inside the winch case. The most frequent problems are --  excessive wear or wear adjustment, broken parts, hung up inside, etc. .   
Case 1150B & IHC TD-340 Dozer's, IHC 4WD 3800 & CAT 436B Hoe's, Franklin 170, Semi's: (1) Freightliner, (2) KW's, Marmon, Mack w/ Prentice Ldr., F-700 Crane Trk., (6) Mid Size Trk's. - Dumps, Flats, 1 Ton w/ 40 ft. 5th Whl. & (4) Semi Tlr's., LM 2000 Mill, (2) XL 12's., Solo 681, EFCO 152, Old Iron.

Southside

Try saying Gee or Haw and see what happens.   :D  On my older JD there was a small cover on the left side of the winch toward the front, under the cover is a pushrod that has to be in pretty tight tolerance adjustment or the winch would slip just like you are describing.  If you can take a photo I am sure somebody here will be able to walk you through it.  I sold my book when I sold the machine or I would get you the length. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Horselog

I'll try to grab a picture and get it up here.  Thanks for the input.
Benjamin Harris
Appalachian Mountains of Virginia
horse_logger@me.com

Horselog

Like I mentioned, the winch runs off a PTO, so it's mechanically driven.  But it uses the lubricating fluid in the winch as hydraulic fluid to operate the actuator, which I assume means it engages and disengages the clutch with a hydraulic cylinder or something like it.  That is about the extent of my knowledge on it at this point.
Benjamin Harris
Appalachian Mountains of Virginia
horse_logger@me.com

slowmiller

I had a similar problem with the winch on my JD 350 dozer, it was a JD winch so it might be different than yours but it seems like the operating principals on them on similar.

Mine is mechanically driven (PTO) with hydraulic to control the winch. The hydraulic pressure actuates the clutch and brake via 2 different cylinders (one for each). When you winch in it provides pressure to the clutch cylinder to engage the clutch and pressure to the side of the brake cylinder that releases the brake. Putting the winch in free wheel releases the brake only as the clutch cylinder is single acting. When the winch is in the skid mode (center position on my control) there is pressure to the brake to lock down the winch drum. The clutch and brake are both "dry" so any oil that gets on them causes them to slip which was my problem. I had to remove the clutch and brake bands from the winch and I heated them over a woodstove until the oil stopped coming out of them, then gave them a quick sanding and put it all back together after fixing the leak that caused my problems in the first place. It is worth taking off the clutch / brake side cover of the winch to check on everything, the slightly newer JD winches that they used on some 440 skidders had a more complicated controller but it still needed to be leak free. Hope this helps


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