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Waste oil

Started by Randy88, August 29, 2014, 06:15:54 AM

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Gary_C

Randy, don't look too hard as I doubt if anyone will be willing to do the cleaning for anything less than full market value and for good reasons. First it will cut into their product sales. Also their equipment is set up for handling large volumes from large tanks that are piped directly to their equipment. Running you dirty stuff would contaminate their systems and would take a lot of work to clean up after use. And then there is the risk of residue that does not get removed and contaminates a large batch of new product. It just would not be worth the risk for them.

And then there is the economics of the cleaning. The cost of virgin product is but a fraction of their selling price. They also have their equipment and facilities cost, labor, sales, marketing and markups (profit) to consider. And they will have more handling labor to clean your product.

So giving you a lower price to handle your gallons of product will lower their margins per gallon produced and reduce their sales. It's hard to see anyone doing your cleaning for you.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Al_Smith

I was on several nuc boats and one diesel when I wore the bell bottom blues and dolphins of the u-boat raiders .As I recall the auxillary diesels on the nucs had a series of cartridges that could be changed one cartridge at a time without shutting down the engine.They were some type of centifuse thing .

Again surfing flea bay they offer some electric powered cream seperators for about 150 a pop that would most likely work with reduced capacity per hour.
Now I could put a link on showing how they work .However so can everybody else if they spent some time on a search engine .It's not as complex as some would think .

beenthere

Gary_C answered it well, for Randy.  Doubt anyone could do it for a living...

Consider what one would be willing to pay for a gallon of "cleaned" oil, and how many gallons per year would have to be processed to make "a living" at cleaning old oil. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

beenthere

Al keeps talking about a centrifuse...  what is that?

I thought first it was a typo.. but now am wondering maybe not.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Al_Smith

 :D I have fat fingers,it was a typo.Several as a matter of fact .Here ya go >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxIr4NFl3fs

Al_Smith

So I get these brain storms every so often over stuff I'd probably never do ,like build a centrafuge .

What would happen if a person used the rear brake drum of a big dump truck mounted in reverse using the front axle spindle ? It would need to have some type of a lid to keep the oil from flying out the top and some drain holes towards the center .The spindle of course would most likely need to be gasketed to keep the oil from leaking out .

The big question would be is the spindle bearing capable of running the high RPMs need which would be realitive to the size of the drum .---my mind is a strange place to visit at times ----

Randy88

I've been giving this some thought as well, but with my other projects in the works right now and full work season just a week away, I'll spend a few months doing a lot of "thinking" so keep the ideas coming, any idea no matter how strange it sounds, is worth considering or at least to spark a thought in a direction to head towards. 

r.man

I know of someone who used contaminated hydraulic oil in his own hydraulics. He would get a 45 gal drum and just leave it in his garage for a year. Ladle oil out of the top and not use the bottom 6 or 12 inches. It would help if the oil was warm so you could leave it in a black tank in the sun. Requires patience for the first batch but if you have more than barrels sitting than you need you only have to wait the first time. I would also suggest a 200 gal household oil tank on it's end. You would have to add a bung at one end but you could draw out of the bungs that are normally used as filler tube or whistle tube. You should also look to why your chain is wearing and see if maybe something can be done to improve that, maybe nylon or oil soaked wood wear pads?
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Al_Smith

Hydraulic oil or non detergent motor oil will hold particles in suspension .Like said if left undistubed the particles will sink to the bottom of a vessel given enough time .

Unfortunately the motor oils we use today are all detergent oils and will not clean up by this method .

Randy88

settling will only take out the larger stuff no matter what type of oil it is, depending on the additives put into the oil will also determine what the oil allows to drop out, everything else has to be forced out of the oil by some means, either centrifuge or filters. 

The way it was explained to me by my oil man, is for engine oil, those additives keep things in suspension so they can't fall out and create large slugs of what some call wear/debris/sludge/soot/water or whatever, by keeping it in suspension allows the oil to still lube things and do its job.   

Hydraulic oils and some other oils don't allow water to mix, its forces it out of the oil so it can be drained off or in some other cases, it absorbs it so it won't harm the engine as its run through, all done with additives package put into the oil.   

Non detergent refers the oils prior to many of the additives added today, or a less refined type of oil, if this is wrong someone can correct me in a much more specific explanation of the differences.     

Al_Smith

I'm not certain back in the day if non detergent oil was really less refined or not .I can't remember it being offered in "multi grade " though .Just straight SAE 20-30 WT etc .

In say 1955 Chevy used a basically a 235 cu in GMC truck engine in the automobiles .It did not come with an oil filter .It might have been an option but it was not a "full flow" design like used today .Keep in mind that was in the days they recomended oil changes every month or thousand miles .Oil was 20- 30 cents a quart then and even so few changed oil on that freguency .

Al_Smith

Recently within the last month I moved a 1950 Buick from the little barn on the place I grew up .In doing so there was a 2 gallon can of oil I had to move .Evidently from an oil change my father did at some time .

I have no doubt it was at least 25 years old .In spite of that fact the oil was black as the ace of spades .Evidently detergent oil that did not allow the particals to settle out after over two decades .

Randy88

New oil if left long enough will wax/varnish up and not pour out of anything, I've seen it honey comb and also have a layer of wax on top of it, and the sludge on the bottom of the can or bottle will shock anyone.     We had to move an old oil shed a few years back, all the new bottles and also can's of oil, along with some barrels that still had new oil in them.   The barrels were thrown away, we couldn't get anything out of them at all, what was inside was sludge and that's about all that was left, same for the bottles and cans, but those we cut open and what was inside looked like a combination of wax/varnish and honey comb and toss some sludge out of your worst waste oil cans, but it was all new oil.     

ozarkgem

I know a guy who parts out tractors and used the transmission and rear end oil for bar oil. seems to work. I guess you could get a hydrometer and mix lighter oil to get the right viscosity. 
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

Al_Smith

Tranny,rear end oil already has a tacking agent mixed in with it .Petrolium based gear oil stinks to high heavens .

Randy88

So where does a person buy the actual tack agent used in chainsaw oil in gallons to mix in with oil to get it to stick to roller chains better

pineywoods

Quote from: Randy88 on September 10, 2014, 07:40:21 PM
So where does a person buy the actual tack agent used in chainsaw oil in gallons to mix in with oil to get it to stick to roller chains better
I use STP oil treatment or motor honey. One can to 5 gallons of used oil...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Peter Drouin

When I change the oil in my pickup and one ton , I spray the oil with a paint gun with 160 psi under and all over them and the salt don't eat them ;D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Al_Smith

When I had a wood decked machinery trailer I brushed old oil on it with an old broom .It preserved it somewhat .It was a little slick though for about a week until it soaked in .

luvmexfood

Back in the 60's and 70's around here people would take old motor oil and put it on wood floors in a building such as a warehouse.

One company collected waste oil and had a spreader truck and they put it on dirt roads to keep the dust down. Times have changed.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

Al_Smith

Years ago,60's they used to sell "rerefined " oil at cut rate gas stations in a 2 gallon can.Cheap enough 15-20 cents a quart more or less .My dad used it in an old Allis-Chalmers model B which I own now that drank oil because of two pistons with broken rings .

I rebuilt that engine when I was 16 years old ,50 years ago .I was surprised how clean the insides were .Of course tractor engines of old didn't run the temperatures of car engines which might explain it .

Seaman

YEA, those trailer floors get SLICK, specially when it rains ! :o
Frank
Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

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