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What features to get when buying a Log Splitter?

Started by 32vld, August 28, 2014, 09:44:47 PM

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32vld

Well I got my first cord split and stacked using a Stihl Splitting Axe 6.8 lbs, two wedges older then me, I 'm 60, and a sledge. Though I am anxious to learn about Log splitters I am no way ready to buy one.

Yes I know higher ton rating and faster cycle time being better. I would want one that I can trailer.

Also some units will pivot and work vertical so you do not have to pick up the heavy logs. While some have mechanical or hydraulic lifts. I would think that type would be better because after the log is split you do not have to bend down to pick up the splits pieces off of the ground.

Also I like the attachment that will let you split a log into 4 pieces instead of 2.

So what am I missing when it comes to log splitters?

Please educate.

Compensation

When I bought mine I didn't care about the vertical feature. Now that I have owned it for 10 years I use that more then the horizontal position. Its either vertical and close to the log pile so I work on my knees or it horizontal next to the tailgate or table of some sort.

As far as making firewood fast I bust the logs in quarters then whack those pieces with a maul.

Features I like are auto lock for hands free reverse, vertical and horizontal positions,  offloading table, 4-way compatible. Things to look out for are plastic fill caps unprotected. Firewood always finds a way to fall and  break them. Also make sure you like the engine it comes with. I don't care much for mine. Fuel tank size has been a drawback for me too, it always runs dry when I get in the groove of splitting.
D4D caterpillar, lt10 Woodmizer, 8x12 solar kiln, enough Stihl's to make my garages smell like their factory :) Ohh and built Ford tough baby!

thecfarm

I like all features that you are looking for. But the DanG money part kept me to just a cheapy wood splitter. It does split horizontal,and vertical. When I first bought it,I was just using it for the kitchen stove. All small stuff. Than I got a OWB. Now I have to split the big stuff in the vertical position. I'm not really into the fast cycle time. Money again.  ::)  But I don't want to wait 5 minutes either. Mine does have the auto reverse. You really want that.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

32vld

Quote from: Compensation on August 29, 2014, 01:55:39 AM
Things to look out for are plastic fill caps unprotected. Firewood always finds a way to fall and  break them. Also make sure you like the engine it comes with. I don't care much for mine. Fuel tank size has been a drawback for me too, it always runs dry when I get in the groove of splitting.


Plastic caps, check.

I never thought of horizontal working off a pickup bed or trailer, vertical for working off the ground.

32vld

Quote from: thecfarm on August 29, 2014, 05:14:23 AM
Mine does have the auto reverse. You really want that.

You both have me sold on auto reverse. Thanks.

32vld

Preferred engines and brands?

Those to stay away from?

Minimum ton rating? I have been doing rounds up to 24".

Compensation

Mine is 28 ton. It has went through some really twisted wood. I am looking towards replacing my Briggs with a kholer, Honda, Onan, or robin Subaru.
D4D caterpillar, lt10 Woodmizer, 8x12 solar kiln, enough Stihl's to make my garages smell like their factory :) Ohh and built Ford tough baby!

beenthere

I use the same horizontal splitter I've had since 1985.

Have worked around the vert/horz splitters but don't like working on my knees or the lack of space to work around the wheels of the combination setups.

I roll my horz splitter up on car ramps, set up a table of a pallet for the blocks to be split, and stack the splits on another pallet. No lifting when pallet forks are used.

If I were to change, it would be to the Firewoodinator that Logrite has developed, with the fast splitter and the table to work on without bending over.

But seems most everyone gets comfortable with different setups, which makes it tough to recommend one thing over another.

Pic of my setup.


 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

goose63

 

  I pit a small atv winch on mine now the heavy aint so heavy
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

garret

Started out with a Northern Hydraulics horizontal that I used a long time until I discovered the vertical splitter.  My trick to using a vertical is not to split from a kneeling position.  This I only use for the last log (the one I was sitting on).

It has long been my strategy to sit down on the job whenever possible, which is what works best with a vertical splitter.  Simply queue up a number of logs (or have your helper) close to where you are sitting on a nice comfortable one.  Pivot the logs into position under the wedge placing your elbows or forearms on your knees.  It will amaze you how heavy a log you can move and how this simple maneuver prevents or greatly reduces any stress on the lower back.  I have split numerous 2' sopping-wet red oak logs by myself, no problem.  Try that with a horizontal in the absence of a hoist.

The only drawbacks of a vertical that I can think of is the wedge is narrow and sometimes requires that the log be rotated 180 degrees if not split on the first cycle.  This happens most often with stringy grain and sometimes with logs >16" diameter.   Second issue is the accumulated splits must be frequently removed from your working radius. 
E-Classic 2400 comfortably heating 4,200 sq.ft. and unlimited DHW, Off-grid, Photovoltaic-powered pumps in gloomy SW PA , 34 t splitter, numerous Husky chainsaws

32vld

Quote from: garret on August 30, 2014, 09:09:02 AM

The only drawbacks of a vertical that I can think of is the wedge is narrow and sometimes requires that the log be rotated 180 degrees if not split on the first cycle.  This happens most often with stringy grain and sometimes with logs >16" diameter.   Second issue is the accumulated splits must be frequently removed from your working radius.

Some more great tips. Though why do they use a narrower wedge on verticals?

bigbuckhughes


garret

In the vertical design, gravity necessitates the wedge being attached to the hydraulic rod.  There simply has to be some place for the displaced (split) wood to go, as the base plate is located on the bottom (ground).  Horizontal designs  consist of either a fixed wedge that is welded to the beam or attached to rod as in the vertical.  Both horizontal and vertical designs have a track that keeps the hydraulic rod captive and parallel to the beam.  A wide wedge attached to the rod could generate a component of force that is perpendicular to the beam when splitting a wider log with a wide wedge.  This could result in a bent rod or other structural failure.
E-Classic 2400 comfortably heating 4,200 sq.ft. and unlimited DHW, Off-grid, Photovoltaic-powered pumps in gloomy SW PA , 34 t splitter, numerous Husky chainsaws

ksks

http://www.sears.com/boss-industrial-7-ton-electric-log-splitter/p-07172734000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

Since you are splitting by hand I assume your are not doing volume. 
Have you considered one of these?  Cheaper.  Lighter.  Easier to handle.

I just bought one.  Cut a tree down and was going to test it out.  But, the entire tree was rotten top to bottom.  It all went to the burn pile.

I'll be using it on some good oak in a couple weeks.
Striving to be average!

glassman_48

32vld,
I am 61 years old so I dont last long unless the splitter has a log lift :) :) :)  I purchased a commercial log splitter from twister industries a few years ago.  Mine had a log lift, a chip grate and an adjustable 4 way wedge.  I just roll the logs onto the lift ramp with my foot and it will lift up onto the splitter beam.  If its a large log after it goes through the wedge it lands on the chip grate which is about 24" above the ground.  Then its just a matter of tossing each half through the wedge until the whole thing is done.  I tried the vertical for large logs and my back couldnt take it.  Now I have a firewood processor so life is much easier.   

beenthere

ksks
QuoteSince you are splitting by hand I assume your are not doing volume. 
Have you considered one of these?  Cheaper.  Lighter.  Easier to handle.

Splitting by hand can keep up with a good many splitters, just the guy splitting gets tired after awhile and the splitter does not.  ;D

Will be interested in how you use your electric one and how many cords you plan to split.

I considered one just to keep in the garage and split apart some larger chunks as using the splitting maul on the garage floor is noisy and pieces can fly around. But when I get close to considering the electric, they are so slow (like a turtle) and require the "two hands on controls" while the piece balances on the rail, I never bought one.

Hope you will let us know how you like yours.

Maybe I'll break down and get one. ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ksks

beenthere,

I used a friend's electric of a different brand.  It did well.  With the rounds that were too big, I cut a line in it with the chainsaw and that was enough to get it started. But it easily split 14-16 inches.

The Boss Industrial takes only one had to operate.  It sits low so no high lifting of rounds.
Its 7 ton.  I think the other one I used was a 4ton DR.

I will only burn about 2 cords max so I don't need a big one.  The heart, back and shoulder limit me getting too excited about all this.  It should be OK.

I was disappointed I couldn't use it on the last tree!

It also has the 4x splitter attachment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kxTH9Q0oac
Here's a video of it working.  Not too slow.


Striving to be average!

Oliver1655

John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

32vld

I just found out about flywheel splitters. Youtube showed a wide range of flywheel designs. I liked the old machine that used a belt driven flywheel to operate a crankshaft with a wedge mounted on the end of a connecting rod to drive a wedge down into a log to split it.

I also heard about new flywheel splitter that uses a rack and pinion gears. Yes the cycle time is fast. Though you can not have a 4 way splitter. Thing is I see gears coming together and apart will eventually lead to excessive gear clearance causing the gears to shear or strip.

So who is for hydraulic or rack and pinion splitters? Why?

beenthere

QuoteSo who is for hydraulic or rack and pinion splitters? Why?

I'm for hydraulic, and why?  because that is what I've had for 30 years.. same one and it keeps splittin.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

NHMike

I'm for the flywheel splitter.  Picked up my Super Split this past spring  8) It is fast, fuel efficient, Very low maintenance, and they hold their value IF you ever want to sell it.
For me, this splitter has taken the work out of splitting and makes it fun.

ksks

Quote from: beenthere on August 31, 2014, 07:00:29 PM
Will be interested in how you use your electric one and how many cords you plan to split.

I considered one just to keep in the garage and split apart some larger chunks as using the splitting maul on the garage floor is noisy and pieces can fly around. But when I get close to considering the electric, they are so slow (like a turtle) and require the "two hands on controls" while the piece balances on the rail, I never bought one.

I bought the one in the video above.  It is a one hand operation: turn on the electric motor and use one hand on the operating handle.

I used it to split two oak trees I cut down.  Biggest diameter was 16".  It did really well.  Easily split the wood.  There was one that had a big knarley section where the limbs split. I had to maneuver it around to take off different sections at a time.  It would not split thru the center of it so I out that in the burn pile. 

The 4x attachment didn't work well.  It sets too low and what it splits off is too little.  On some of them I could hold it up a bit until the wood touched it.

When I move to this house full-time, I will probably only go thru 1-2 cords per year.

For my purposes this is great.  I can drop a tree from time to time and split it up easily.  Put the rounds on the tarp next to the splitter, sit in my low folding chair, lift the logs on, split a chunk off and throw it into my trailer to go to the pile.  I may get a heavy duty ext cord and set it up next to the woodpile.

This is not for the big boys.  But, if you an old tired guy like me who can only to so much at a time, it works great.

Beenthere, if you're needing a little something for your garage, I recommend it.

Striving to be average!

bigbuckhughes

Does any one have info on where you can buy a 4/way splitter attachment?

firemedic589

As a personal choice I prefer B&S engines, nothing other than I've alwas had them. But whatever you do DON'T buy a no name splitter off the internet.

Why, I bought mine about 6 yrs ago and had the engine valves go bad. Since it was a no name the repair shop had no way of finding the correct parts. So, a new engine had to be put on it. Then my piston lost it's seals, again no way to find the corect replacement, I had to take it to a hydraulic shop and have them specifically made for that piston. 2 hoses went bad, replaced. The foot plate broke off, replaced with new steel and welded.

So, a $900 splitter, a $750 engine (parts/labor), $300 seal/hoses (p/l), $250 foot plate (p/l). So, $2200 later I have a splitter I should have bought in the beginning.

Read reviews and research it before a hefty purchase.

firemedic589


Oliver1655

I have had been very happy with the engines I have purchased from Harbor Freight.  Greyhound which was fazed out & replaced by the Predator brand.

What type of wood are you splitting?  If mostly straight grained & are of a size you can pick the rounds up without straining your back, the kinetic / flywheel splitters such as a Super Splitter are hard to beat.

If you have mostly stringy/gnarly wood, a hydraulic would be my preference.

As far as tonage,  it varies with cylinder bore size & what the pressure relief valve is set at.  So instead I will suggest according to bore size.  I have a 4" bore by 24" stroke cylinder with the pressure relief set at 2,500 psi. Using a single edged wedge with a sharp edge it will split anything I want, elm, cottonwood, hedge, ...  with the 4 way wedge I stay away from elm larger than 18" diameter unless I have noodled the round in half first.  Cycle time is 8.8 sec.  A 4 or 4.5" bore cylinder will provide you with splitting power while still having good cycle times.

The standard valve on wood splitters require you to hold the handle while splitting & have a detente which will hold the handle on the return stroke which will automatically release when the pressure builds up as it is completely retracted.

If you are planning to have a horizontal/vertical splitter, you can normally find a 22 ton (4" bore cylinder) on sale for around $1,000.  Hard to build one for that price unless you have materials already on hand. You can easily upgrade the pump/engine latter if you want more speed.

If you want a vertical you can work at while standing up, you could easily take one of the horizontal/vertical splitters & set it up on a trailer frame.  If you can go a step further & cut your logs over a trailer then you would be able to just roll the rounds to the splitter.

I am too old to work off the ground so, I started with a dedicated horizontal splitter with out-feed tables made with pipes to let the debris fall through then added a log lift & later a 4 way wedge.  I have a tractor with forks so I made my bucking stand to set on a trailer.  This allows me to work standing up with minimal bending over.  Can work all day without stressing my back.


 

The larger rounds can be rolled directly onto the log lift.  I will pile the log lift full of rounds then start the splitter.  This saves fuel & steps.

At the end of the splitter I can either have pallets/crates staged to pile the firewood into or use my elevator.
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

jdonovan

Given that you want to handle up to 24" logs, I'd suggest a powered log lifter vs a horiz/vertical convertible.

My vote for splitters is timberwolf. To use a quote from another forum... Buy once cry once. You will find almost no one with complaints about TW's quality, splitting power etc.. the only thing you hear complaints on is price.

The bigger TW's will run a 4-way or some will even run a 6-way, and I've found they make a huge difference in production rates. I started with a 4, and recently added a 6-way. Big difference, 14-16" rounds + a 6-way, means single pass, no resplitting.

I find I can run a cord (128 cu-ft) in about an hour on my TW3 if I'm pushing hard, about 1/2 that if I'm running more leisurely pace, or smaller wood. I'm splitting about 20-30 cords a year between me and neighbors.

32vld

Quote from: Oliver1655 on October 11, 2014, 03:21:26 AM


What type of wood are you splitting?  If mostly straight grained & are of a size you can pick the rounds up without straining your back, the kinetic / flywheel splitters such as a Super Splitter are hard to beat.

If you have mostly stringy/gnarly wood, a hydraulic would be my preference.

As far as tonage,  it varies with cylinder bore size & what the pressure relief valve is set at.  So instead I will suggest according to bore size.  I have a 4" bore by 24" stroke cylinder with the pressure relief set at 2,500 psi. Using a single edged wedge with a sharp edge it will split anything I want, elm, cottonwood, hedge, ...  with the 4 way wedge I stay away from elm larger than 18" diameter unless I have noodled the round in half first.  Cycle time is 8.8 sec.  A 4 or 4.5" bore cylinder will provide you with splitting power while still having good cycle times.


I split rounds that I can not pick up. A lot of good info that I had not read before. Thanks.

32vld

Quote from: jdonovan on October 11, 2014, 06:05:05 PM
Given that you want to handle up to 24" logs, I'd suggest a powered log lifter vs a horiz/vertical convertible.

My vote for splitters is timberwolf. To use a quote from another forum... Buy once cry once. You will find almost no one with complaints about TW's quality, splitting power etc.. the only thing you hear complaints on is price.

The bigger TW's will run a 4-way or some will even run a 6-way, and I've found they make a huge difference in production rates. I started with a 4, and recently added a 6-way. Big difference, 14-16" rounds + a 6-way, means single pass, no resplitting.

I find I can run a cord (128 cu-ft) in about an hour on my TW3 if I'm pushing hard, about 1/2 that if I'm running more leisurely pace, or smaller wood. I'm splitting about 20-30 cords a year between me and neighbors.

Good points.

I am leaning towards a horizontal with a power lift and table. I want to eliminate picking up splits off the ground. Just grab the splits off of the table and toss them into a wheel barrow.

jaygtree

goose63-  thanks for the great pic. now i know how i'll be lifting the big ones next year. 

i started with a 6 pound mall in 1976. put the 5th handle on it two years ago.  last year i bought a pro model DR flywheel splitter that i should have gotten years ago. had to replace the muffler on the suburu engine. DR sent me a different style muffler at no charge. i had some cracks in the tires and they replaced those too at no charge rims and all.  you definitely want a work table.  i've split about 15 cords(128 cubic feet) and would find it hard not to have an anxiety attack if i had to wait for a typical hydraulic splitter. just thinking about it makes me want to take a lorazapam. the flywheel splitters are really fast even at 1/2 throttle which splits almost all of my red oak. on the really tuff ones i step it up to full throttle. i pull the splitter thru the woods with my 4 wheeler from tree to tree. a hydraulic lift would be real nice if you get a hydraulic splitter. those 24 inchers get heavier each year.  jayg
i thought i was wrong once but i wasn't.   atv, log arch, chainsaw and ez boardwalk jr.

coxy

does any one make a 36in splitter  don't have the time to make one and it would not look vary safe if I did  ;D

jdonovan

Quote from: coxy on October 13, 2014, 07:08:15 AM
does any one make a 36in splitter  don't have the time to make one and it would not look vary safe if I did

Timberwolf has several 36" models. I've got one, tractor 3-pt mount, with a 20 GPM pto pump.

John Mc

Quote from: jdonovan on October 11, 2014, 06:05:05 PM
My vote for splitters is timberwolf. To use a quote from another forum... Buy once cry once. You will find almost no one with complaints about TW's quality, splitting power etc.. the only thing you hear complaints on is price.

Timberwolf is also one of the very few splitter manufacturers who puts honest tonnage ratings on their splitters. If the splitter is rated for 25 tons, it actually puts out 25 tons of splitting force.

Most manufacturers cite specifications that are severely optimistic. For example, a splitter advertised as "20 Ton" with a 4" cylinder operated at the manufacturer's specified 2250 PSI actually puts out just a little over 14 tons, if you do the math (and ignore losses to friction). On the other hand, ig it splits what you need it to split, who cares what the sticker says?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

jdonovan

Quote from: John Mc on October 14, 2014, 08:22:23 PM
On the other hand, if it splits what you need it to split, who cares what the sticker says?

If I think I need 15T and buy a tool with a 15T sticker, and it really only puts out 10T; I care a lot about what the sticker says, because I can no longer use it to compare products if the advertised capacity is a bald face lie.

The Tonnage game is also being played by having a 3000, or 4000 or more PSI capable cylinder on a pump that puts out less PSI. The 'cylinder' might be a 15T, but on the brand X splitter it can't ever produce 15T because the pump can't make the pressure needed to get the full rating.

sawguy21

Quote from: 32vld on September 01, 2014, 09:56:19 PM
I just found out about flywheel splitters. Youtube showed a wide range of flywheel designs. I liked the old machine that used a belt driven flywheel to operate a crankshaft with a wedge mounted on the end of a connecting rod to drive a wedge down into a log to split it.

I also heard about new flywheel splitter that uses a rack and pinion gears. Yes the cycle time is fast. Though you can not have a 4 way splitter. Thing is I see gears coming together and apart will eventually lead to excessive gear clearance causing the gears to shear or strip.

So who is for hydraulic or rack and pinion splitters? Why?

I have  tried both and prefer the hydraulic. The Gripo (Canadian Super Split) was faster as long as everything was working properly but at my age I can't keep up so who cares. The big problem was the return. The beam got coated with pitch and the ram hung up, Pam or WD40 helped to a point but it needed to be kept clean so the ram would retract completely. Stronger return springs stalled the ram on the forward stroke. The small bearings between the ram and the beam didn't stand up well either.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

John Mc

Quote from: jdonovan on October 14, 2014, 08:56:07 PM
Quote from: John Mc on October 14, 2014, 08:22:23 PM
On the other hand, if it splits what you need it to split, who cares what the sticker says?

If I think I need 15T and buy a tool with a 15T sticker, and it really only puts out 10T; I care a lot about what the sticker says, because I can no longer use it to compare products if the advertised capacity is a bald face lie.

The question is, how do you know you need a 15 ton splitter? So far, I've only found one splitter company with honest ratings. If you are basing your need for 15T on the rating of other splitters you were using, odds are, you are basing that perceived need on a manufacturer's lie.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

jdonovan

Quote from: John Mc on October 14, 2014, 11:10:22 PM
The question is, how do you know you need a 15 ton splitter? So far, I've only found one splitter company with honest ratings. If you are basing your need for 15T on the rating of other splitters you were using, odds are, you are basing that perceived need on a manufacturer's lie.

If everyone lies but one company, then when you look at everything else, how do you know who is lying and how much?

I think we generally agree that it is hard/impossible to compare spliter ratings without doing your own homework and figuring pump pressure, cylinder bore on extend and return, flow rate etc... to truly make comparisons.

Honestly given the recent lawsuits and success against the air compressor makers for over rating their products, I'm surprised some opportunistic lawyer hasn't tried to establish a class, and suit against the chi-com product vendors about mis-rated hydraulic products.




DMcCoy

I looked around before making my decision a couple of years ago.  I considered making my own but the 4 main parts alone were almost as much as buying new.  I ended up with a Troy Built 28T.  Horz/vert 2 stage pump, honda engine, auto retract valve, tires, 2" ball hitch, hyd oil -> ready to use.  Starts quick, runs well, splits good.  Has plates to remove wedge from wood on retracting. 

Firewood has so much handling involved.  I looked at every step from tree to wood stove.  I built a firewood 'chopsaw' using a chainsaw and a 14" blade, roller conveyor and a 10" wide x 12' powered belt conveyor to haul off the chunks.  Works great for up to 12" short logs and the bigger stuff I just cut on the ground.  The conveyor I also use next to the splitter.  The conveyor is the best helper I have.

John Mc

[quote author=jdonovan link=topic=77399.msg1190523#msg1190523 ...I'm surprised some opportunistic lawyer hasn't tried to establish a class, and suit against the chi-com product vendors about mis-rated hydraulic products.
[/quote]

It' not just Chinese product vendors. The US manufacturers do it as well.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

32vld

Quote from: John Mc on October 20, 2014, 08:13:03 PM
[quote author=jdonovan link=topic=77399.msg1190523#msg1190523 ...I'm surprised some opportunistic lawyer hasn't tried to establish a class, and suit against the chi-com product vendors about mis-rated hydraulic products.

It' not just Chinese product vendors. The US manufacturers do it as well.
[/quote]

There was a big law suit with small engine horse power ratings being exaggerated. Notice how small engine's for a while where being labeled by Displacement instead of HP?

NEPAGUNNER

I have had my share of log splitters... What works for me might not be best for you but anyways... I had a 12 ton, Earthquake brand, gas powered(okay but bent the hell out of the blade, sold it) next I had a 22 ton Airens(from Home Depot, returned it) horz/vertical, the splitter was a bit slow at times with just a 6HP Subaru motor, but would split the knottiest oak you have ever seen, but the problem was some of the bigger oak logs had a 60"- 80" inch diameter and were well over 200 pounds... I'm 29 years old and had my 33 year old brother help roll the logs near the splitter and the logs were just too heavy, even though they had to be lifted a few inches to sit on the foot of splitter to split in the vertical position... Still too heavy, crushed fingers underneath trying to log get into position... Before I had any of these splitters my dad had a Rayco... Similar to Timberwolf TW/7 actually so similar that timberwolf sued rayco and now rayco no longer offers any log splitters... It had Log lift, hyd adj 4-way splitter... And that was fun to use... No heavy lifting no BS... It got the job done... But costs 8k... And he has since sold it... That being said I just pre ordered a RuggedMade Splitter, due to ship October 30th. I need a log lift for the heavy logs and the lift also acts as table to stack and normal size logs you want split...  The 4-way splitter is a must for me!!! It negates the need for me to run my normal 12-16 inch diameter logs thru the splitter many times... I need a once and done...  It also has a 30" stroke, elec and pull start, 37 Ton rating, 15HP motor, 22GPM pump, Fixed Blade, Push Through Log Splitter - Includes Log Lift  and Log Catcher Tray... For 3k it seems like a great deal... Any comparable unit is 5k and up... Some people claim that the 37 ton rating is BS... I will have to see... I know what the Airens did as a 22 ton, and I think the Rayco was a 35 ton so I will compare it to them for now... Just some food for thought... When I get this splitter in my hands, or in my yard rather, I'll write a review, until then, Happy Splitting!

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

sawguy21

Those 4 way splitters look impressive but need a stout machine to make them work. We made one for a 5 hp unit, probably around 20 ton rating. It wouldn't do the job so we upgraded to an 8 hp and cranked down the relief valve. Bent the ram. :o
Conventional splitters work for home use but are too labor intensive for high production. Want volume? Step up to a processor.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

NEPAGUNNER

The rugged made splitter I just ordered has a 37 Ton rating, 15 Horsepower Motor... Should be stout enough to split a few logs

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Hilltop366

I have never used one but 25 years ago some people around here were building vertical splitters, the splitter has a table at about waste height and ran off a tractor pto while mounted on the 3 point hitch. To me this layout looked like the most comfortable setup I have seen. Kind of like this only different.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMTbD2B9VgE

36 coupe

I have used hydraulic splitters but find a small 5 ton electric splitter works fine.One hand operation..Speeco  cost 300 bucks, have seen it for 250.00 on sale.You can use it on the tailgate of a pickup.Most go nuts splitting wood.Friend just told me he split less and used less wood.

NEPAGUNNER


Just Me

 I split this years wood by hand, and was starting on next years when I hit three stubborn logs in a row. My left shoulder is shot, and it just seemed stupid to be hurrying my demise, so I drove to the store and bought a splitter. I was actually going to pick up an Areins because I liked the layout, but they had a 22 Dirty Hands with a Kohler for *$899. I made a tray out of 1/4" diamond plate for one side, on the side of the motor so it is protected, and it has been all smiles. Mostly because my wife loves to run it! We put up next years wood in two weekends and the Fiskers never got picked up. Has been good so far.

My shoulder still hurts, but I wonder how bad it would hurt if I had split by hand?........

A little PS: I am that old guy that was real proud of how I could split wood. I'm 58 with a lot of hard miles and continuing to split by hand when I could afford to buy a splitter was just plain stupid! I am now looking at a shoulder replacement as my next option.

Just buy the darn splitter guys, save your body for more important things..........

gimpy

Spent 15 years in a wheelchair. Limited stamina. 2 shoulder surgeries on each shoulder. Two total knee replacements on the same day. Need to heat my home with wood. Decided to buy a DR Power Rapid Fire (more expensive) to split as much wood as possible with my limited stamina. I load my pickup bed with rounds at the tree and bring them home. I roll the rounds off my tailgate onto the splitter's table. Very little secondary lifting effort. My 5' 100# wife and I can really produce firewood for ourselves in no time at all. In fact, I have helped out neighbors with their winter needs because it take so little time and effort. This machine is put up against a 34 ton hydraulic splitter with impressive results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pG7Ytb3M-B4&spfreload=10

One of the best investments I made when I move to a rural home.
Gimpy old man
Lucky to have a great wife
John Deere 210LE tractor w/Gannon Box

John Mc

I started splitting with a maul when I was just using my woodstove for supplemental heat. Got a 16 ton electric RamSplitter (basically the same as their 16T gas splitter, but with electric motor) when I started using the stove more as primary heat.  Most of my lags are small enough that I can load them by hand (16" diameter or less). When I get into bigger ones, I either just grunt them up, split them once with a chainsaw, or use my tractor - but it'sinfrequent enough that it's not an issue.

Recently, I started splitting a cord or so a year by hand. I bought a Fiskars splitting axe, and found it MUCH better for splitting than my old maul, and I needed a bit of a workout to help stay in shape (my physical therapist wife says the splitting is a good "core" workout - works the abdominal muscles as well as your arms).

When I get to the point where I can't lift a decent size log to the splitter anymore, the electric splitter will definitely get replaced with something with a log lift.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Hilltop366

 I find the video misleading, not putting down the DR and have no experience with one but I think the video would have different results if it was compared to a 20 ton hydraulic splitter with a multi wedge the results would be less dramatic.

Going by the numbers it would take 3 splits with a single wedge to equal one with a 4 way wedge so if you multiply 146 x 3 = 438  verses 382 for the DR, usually a portion of the wood only needs one split which would even things out.

John Mc

DR definitely have some slick marketing, and their competition video is stacked - I've never seen a splitter as slow as the hydraulic one in their video. It also appears they are running the hydraulic ram through it's full stroke (why wait through 2 feet or more of motion to split a 16" or less log).

Their other videos all show it splitting white ash, which is something that splits if yo look at it too hard. They'd also have you believe they invented this concept - they didn't, their version showed up shortly after SuperSplit's patent ran out. DR's early units looked so much like the SS units that I called and asked if they were rebadged SuperSplits (they are not)

Having said that, they are fast, and in real world application are faster than a good hydraulic splitter.  If seen the SuperSplit up against a good hydraulic splitter with a 4 way wedge on it. That closed the gap a good bit, but the SuperSplit still beat the hydraulic.

SuperSplits will split gnarly wood and Elm, and still go fairly quickly at it, yo just have to take a couple of hits at it sometimes. Think of the SuperSplit as working like a mechanized ax or maul.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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