circle blade rotation

stihlsawer · August 20, 2014, 09:29:41 AM

I have a Belsaw that I bought that is set up as a left handed mill. I have never seen a Belsaw M14 that was left handed. Another thing, the blade would spin counter clockwise as you are facing the blade (left handed mill).
The mandrel nut is left hand threaded. To me this is a huge no-no. Am I correct?

I appreciate all advise in advance. Have a blessed day.

Trever

york · August 20, 2014, 11:41:19 AM

Trever,that mill,does not look safe to run,you need to do some rebuilding to this mill to make it safe......

stihlsawer · August 20, 2014, 02:02:24 PM

Thank you. This was an old picture from the place it used to reside.
I disassembled and moved the sawmill components to my in-laws property.
Since I have blasted and primered all the components.
I am about to restock it now and I am pretty sure this mill was supposed to be ran as a right handed mill, but was ran as a left hand mill for some reason.
The mill hasn't ran in over 20 years and is M14 serial number 717 from Belsaw.
Before I run the mill, I will have Payne tension the blade for 560 RPM and instal new shanks and bits.

Thanks again for the concern.
I was checking on the mandrel threading; as far as thinking that a left hand thread is for a clockwise rotation (right hand mill).

Trever

york · August 20, 2014, 03:35:45 PM

OK,now old Albert feel`s better,there are a bunch of Bellsaw guys that will be along soon.....

DMcCoy · August 20, 2014, 03:56:49 PM

Did you have your blade hammered yet? If you plan on reversing this set-up (I would) then you need to have your blade hammered for a right hand mill. Right hand defined - Log passes on the right side of the blade with the teeth turning toward you. Also your setworks and carriage - is it welded? Mine is bolt together. The ends will need to be reversed so your pawl section is at the front end the log before it enters the blade.

Ron Wenrich · August 20, 2014, 04:41:17 PM

I ran a left handed mill for over 20 years. If I recall, they had left handed threads. I tightened opposite of the rotation. It isn't that important unless you're running logs that hang below the headblocks, and run up on the nut. I've only had a saw nut loosen up a couple of times in about 30 years.

If you flip your mill to being a right handed mill, you'll have to change your guides and board splitter on the husk. You'll also have to change how your feed handle works and how your belts are mounted on the husk. I don't recall being around a Belsaw mill, so I'm not real familiar on their husk layout or how the mill works.

stihlsawer · August 20, 2014, 09:28:06 PM

Quote from: DMcCoy on August 20, 2014, 03:56:49 PM
Did you have your blade hammered yet? If you plan on reversing this set-up (I would) then you need to have your blade hammered for a right hand mill. Right hand defined - Log passes on the right side of the blade with the teeth turning toward you. Also your setworks and carriage - is it welded? Mine is bolt together. The ends will need to be reversed so your pawl section is at the front end the log before it enters the blade.

Not yet. I am going to check for any dish in the blade with a straight edge to determine which rotation the blade is supposed be.
The setworks are bolted together. I can can change it over to RH fairly easy. The carriage is setup for LH.

I will have BH Payne hammer it for 540-560 RPM; right hand I guess. It's easier to run from a tractor PTO if it RH (clockwise) rotation anyway.

Trever

stihlsawer · August 20, 2014, 09:48:32 PM

Quote from: york on August 20, 2014, 03:35:45 PM
OK,now old Albert feel`s better,there are a bunch of Bellsaw guys that will be along soon.....

:D

Possum Creek · August 20, 2014, 09:53:22 PM

You have a clean slate if it is all apart and unassembled. I would consider what you are going to use for power, a tractor or a conventional power unit, if you use a tractor it would be easier as a right hand mill and if you use a power unit a left hand belsaw would be more straight forward. Personally, if I was going to set one up from scratch I would get the M-14 plans from the vintage machinery site and use that for a guide and also this is just my opinion but a belsaw set up right handed as I believe they are intended could provide a greater margin of safety as there would be less chance of the arbor nut getting loose, that is just speculation on my part however I have not ran one that way. I am looking forward to what you come up with and good luck. PC

bandmiller2 · August 21, 2014, 08:03:33 AM

Right or left hand thread, the way I remember is face the nut side of the saw grab the nut and turn the saw in its direction of rotation you should be tightening the nut. Frank C.

DMcCoy · August 21, 2014, 09:55:38 AM

Shouldn't that be O'possum Creek? It's Irish I think.

Never thought about it not sure I should.

stihlsawer · August 21, 2014, 02:54:02 PM

Quote from: Possum Creek on August 20, 2014, 09:53:22 PM
You have a clean slate if it is all apart and unassembled. I would consider what you are going to use for power, a tractor or a conventional power unit, if you use a tractor it would be easier as a right hand mill and if you use a power unit a left hand belsaw would be more straight forward. Personally, if I was going to set one up from scratch I would get the M-14 plans from the vintage machinery site and use that for a guide and also this is just my opinion but a belsaw set up right handed as I believe they are intended could provide a greater margin of safety as there would be less chance of the arbor nut getting loose, that is just speculation on my part however I have not ran one that way. I am looking forward to what you come up with and good luck. PC

Thanks PC. You all are right. I believe making this a RH mill is the best and safest solution.
I have the M14 manual (older one and newer one). All show right hand mills too.

Trever

stihlsawer · August 21, 2014, 02:58:43 PM

Quote from: bandmiller2 on August 21, 2014, 08:03:33 AM

Right or left hand thread, the way I remember is face the nut side of the saw grab the nut and turn the saw in its direction of rotation you should be tightening the nut. Frank C.

Thank you Frank. In this case a left handed thread is needed for a RH Belsaw.

Trever

stihlsawer · August 22, 2014, 01:10:06 PM

More pics in case anyone is interested.

Note from Admin: Pics must be in Forestry Forum Gallery

Have a blessed weekend.

Trever

beenthere · August 22, 2014, 03:26:50 PM

Once upon a time, I was on that site.. not any more.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · August 24, 2014, 10:34:06 PM

You said that you will install new shanks and bits after hammering, but it is best to replace them first and then have the saw tensioned. With a really old mill, often it is easier to purchase a new blade (or used blade from a saw shop) rather than try to make an old one work.

stihlsawer · August 25, 2014, 10:40:45 AM

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on August 24, 2014, 10:34:06 PM
You said that you will install new shanks and bits after hammering, but it is best to replace them first and then have the saw tensioned. With a really old mill, often it is easier to purchase a new blade (or used blade from a saw shop) rather than try to make an old one work.

Thank you Gene for your advise and I will head your advise.
Have a blessed day.

Trever