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Question about curing logs.

Started by jrose1970, August 15, 2014, 08:07:31 AM

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jrose1970

Hey everyone,
   I am a complete rookie. I would like to saw some 10" x 12" x 10' (or so) for a cabin.
What is step one? Should I fell the trees and let them start curing, or should I wait until I'm ready to saw them up?  If they cure, how long should they cure? If I cut them green, will they warp?
Thanks fellow fellers! (The word feller is in the bible. LOL  One whos fells trees.) Isaiah was a southerner.
Okay, I'll shut up. :D
HFE-36; International 424-37HP; McCullogh Pro 10-10

Magicman

I would fell, saw, and sticker within the shortest interval possible.  There would be very little concern if there is a few weeks or even months between felling and sawing, but no advantage.  My thoughts would be to get the lumber properly stickered and drying as soon as possible before your cabin build.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

jrose1970

Okay great!
  Thanks for the advice. That is exactly what I will do.
HFE-36; International 424-37HP; McCullogh Pro 10-10

beenthere

QuoteI would like to saw some 10" x 12" x 10' (or so) for a cabin.

Building a timber frame?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

jrose1970

Yes, I think it would be. Our friend was asking about the logs, so I'm thinking she's thinking timber frame.
HFE-36; International 424-37HP; McCullogh Pro 10-10

Ianab

Traditional timber framing would usually be done with green wood. It's easier to work, and large timbers take years to dry. Framing and cladding could be put up green as well, or dried first as 1 - 2" boards dry in a sensible time frame (months not years)

There are some techniques that can be used to minimise warping of the wood, but it's going to shrink. Your building methods need to account for this as the wood dried in place.

Flooring and interior trim really needs to be dry or you will get gaps opening up as it does eventually dry. But that's usually done last in the build, so you have time to get the material dried.

So generally you want to saw the logs ASAP after they are felled. Some species will stay good for a while, months or even years in some cases, but old dry wood is harder to saw, and you are more likely to get some sot of degrade (staining, splitting, bug infestation etc).

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

ljmathias

Hey, jrose, good to meet you.  My daughter's name is Jessica Rosalie, so I guess she could be a jrose also...

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

36 coupe

White Pine should be cut in August, September and October.Pine cut in other months will be full of borers unless kept in water.Old knowledge .

rasman57

Quote from: 36 coupe on August 17, 2014, 06:57:35 AM
White Pine should be cut in August, September and October.Pine cut in other months will be full of borers unless kept in water.Old knowledge .

Some of those old old sayings had a small bit of actual experience based on reality but I never heard that one.   Wonder if that is a regional thing due to climate, mud, bugs, and then freeze.  You end up with only a few months to cut. :-\    ...or it could be like Elvis is in the building.......... I will be cutting several White Pines for timbers and would be interested in knowing.

bandmiller2

Pine is always best handled in cold weather easier on everyone except the bugs and mold. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

jrose1970

Thanks again, everyone, for your advice. I was worried about the oak, especially, getting harder and harder the more it dried. I've tried pulling nails out of old oak 1x's. LOL.  I will cut the big timbers up pretty quick and let the trim dry a little more.
HFE-36; International 424-37HP; McCullogh Pro 10-10

shinnlinger

200 years ago no one was worried about drying time, they were worried about a roof over their heads.  These old structures are still standing so I wouldn't be too worried about it.  Cut it up and work it up.  The sooner the better.  I have even cut tenons while the cant is still on the deck with the mill.   I saw white pine all the time and do not have any issues other than superficial bug bores and blue stain IF the log has sat around a long time, but it adds character so I don't consider it an issue persay.   
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

dboyt

Quote from: Magicman on August 15, 2014, 08:38:38 AM
I would fell, saw, and sticker

I agree... it is best to do it in that order. :D

We built our post & beam home 40 years ago and, in most cases, the timbers were put up within a week of felling.  Worked very well.   End coating would help cut down on cracks.  Think about getting some Anchorseal.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

jrose1970

Thanks for the advice. I'm very excited to get started. I know where to come with more questions. LOL
HFE-36; International 424-37HP; McCullogh Pro 10-10

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