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Looking for a recommendation on a chainsaw mill for some White Pine beams.....

Started by rasman57, July 25, 2014, 09:22:50 AM

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rasman57

    I have several White Pines that will be providing beams for a cabin project and am looking for experienced advice on a chainsaw mill for this project. 
    Last couple years I have cut, bucked, stickered, stacked a bunch of Red and White Oak that has been milled with the able help of member Sawyer Brown.  His Woodmizer is just the cat's pajamas to watch and I have had several hours off loading and happily getting sawdust all over me.   Paying him has almost been something I look forward to as much as him!  :o   We have had a few really good days and I have a nice whack o Oak. 
    I am using the lumber for a cabin and barn project at my stress retreat spot in Michigan but so far the wood has been cut and milled here in Illinois.  Now I am getting ready to dive into some White Pines there in Michigan and want to pickup a nice CSM and produce some timbers etc right there.  Since it is Pine and simple basic timbers, I am going to give it a go.
    I have a couple saws and my newer Stihl 362 (25 inch bar) will be the power head.   What say the wise and experienced.  Please dont tell me to get a portable sawmill...YES I would love one....NO I can't (now  ;)).    I am going to get a CSM for this project and some basic remote location stuff and would welcome your recommendation as to which models.    Pines are between 18-26 inch dbh.
   Appreciate your input.

dboyt

How long do your beams need to be?  This is important, since you will need some sort of straight track long enough to mill them.  I've had good success with Norwood's Porta-mill.  It uses a ladder for a track, and it rides on the track for each cut, so every cut is independent of the one before.  It also lets you stand upright and push it (sort of like a shopping cart), with remote throttle control so you're not next to the exhaust while milling.  They're a sponsor, so you can just click on the banner to the left for info.  Be sure to get a ripping chain for whatever mill you use.
Norwood MX34 Pro portable sawmill, 8N Ford, Lewis Winch

mad murdock

Check out Baileys, they have the full line of Granberg(Alaskan Mill), and Logosol.  Right now the Timberjigg is on sale for 139 I believe.  They also have a killer deal on the M8 right now.  The 362 is a little light IMO, but you can do ok with it if you set it up with Stihl's 63PMX chain, you will need the correct bar and drive sprocket or rim for it as well, which Baileys can outfit you with on all of the above.  If you go with an Alaskan Mk III, the 24" would do you for the sized pine you are describing.  I have both the Mk III and the Timberjigg, and I like them both.  The Timberjigg is a little quicker to change up between cuts, (different sizes of cuts), but requires more attention to detail to produce straight lumber.  the MkIII is a bit slower, only because you have to use tools to change your depth of cut, bot they are both very good CSM options.  The M8 is the cats meow of CSM's, IMO, (if there is such a thing ;)), but the good thing about the Timberjigg, is you can upgrade it with the Big Mill add on. Check out their videos.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

beenthere

Rather than Bailey's, check out your local dealers of Stihl, and other brands (local meaning other than the box stores) so you can get help when needed in the near future (Bailey's is no longer a sponsor of the forum and shipping to IL may eat up some good money).

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

mad murdock

Quote from: beenthere on July 25, 2014, 02:45:22 PM
(Bailey's is no longer a sponsor of the forum and shipping to IL may eat up some good money).
head not aware of that BT. Granberg sells direct as well, also, look on CL in your region for "sawmill" or "chainsaw sawmill".  You'd be surprised what pops up from time to time.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

rasman57

Thanks for the referenced CSM's .  Good info.  I like that Norwood setup a lot but I was surprised to see it does not allow for cutting of bigger logs.  Nice setup for comfortable sawing.   All of them look like solid, well made gear.  That M8 is pretty fancy too!   I am leaning towards the Alaskan MK III since it seems the most versatile and will work for my size project and money.   

Fedge

There is a guy that builds a CSM called, i believe, Pantherpro. I have one and it is well built and it costs quite a bit less than a Granberg.

Geoff
A smart man knows a lot, a smarter man knows what he doesn't know.

boscojmb

I ran a CSM for several years. The mill was a Woodland Bumble Bee (now out of business) with a Husqvarna 3120XP power head. The mill was easy to set up and use but even with small logs and the biggest saw on the market sawing was SLOW.

Have you tried a cutting a slab with your 362? I would try it and time myself before buying a CSM.
John B.

Log-Master LM4

mmartone

I also have a pantherpro mill, seems to work ok. We have only cut a few logs with it, sure wish you were closer I'd bring my rig to your place!
Remember, I only know what you guys teach me. Lt40 Manual 22hp KAwaSaki, Husky3120 60", 56" Panther CSM, 372xp, 345xp, Stihl 041, 031, blue homelite, poulans, 340

tcg


At present time I own an M8 Logosol and have found it to be a very good CSM. I originally owned an Alaskan III with home made 2 X 4 rails.
With that said the CSM are slow but obviously are very portable. You may be under powered with the Hus. 362.
I use Hus. 395 XP and 372 XP cutting mostly White Pine now. I would highly recommend you purchase several loops of rip chain as spares because you need to have sharp chains available. It will speed up the process. As soon as you you see the chain not cutting well sharpen it or change it out.  I ended up  purchasing a chain grinder to facilitate having readily sharpen chains.
I can appreciate you concern for cost. I would have like to own a band mill but at the time it was not feasible.

Tom
 

hamish

As your intent is to cut beams get the Granberg G555 Mini Mill, a bit over $100 and get milling.

A 362 is sufficient for the size of logs you intent to cut, and the species.

Sharp chain and let the saw to the work.
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

rasman57

Quote from: hamish on July 30, 2014, 09:57:38 PM
As your intent is to cut beams get the Granberg G555 Mini Mill, a bit over $100 and get milling.
A 362 is sufficient for the size of logs you intent to cut, and the species.
Sharp chain and let the saw to the work.

Yep the goal and plan is to cut white pine beams specific to my project.  The Stihl will be okay for this pine and these sized logs as I have cut lots of bigger hardwood and know its capabilities and limitations.  The sharp chain ALWAYS is the number one rule.  Things go slow and bad heat and wear happens fast when this rule is not followed.

I do want to be comfortable with the CSM being reasonably accurate for square non wavy cuts in producing a cant or beam.   I am not considering milling other boards or lumber for this project.   I am not looking for the cheapest CSM produced but rather the best value for a CSM that would be a good fit for BEAM or CANT milling in a 18-26 white pine.   Producing the rough sawn beams is something I look forward to doing but want to give myself the advantage of knowing others have used the recommended CSM for the same type project.  All the ones mentioned seem to have some value and offer different advantages or drawbacks.   Like most tools, it would be the right tool for the right job.  I would not want to even consider it for some of the oak that we have stickered and stacked for the project.

Appreciate the input.

clarkjlouis

I like using my woodbug at www.woodbug.com.  Sawed a lot of beams and plenty of lumber.

hamish

With the G555's guide rail and a chalk line it will cut square non crooked beams so long as the operator does there part.

Having used one for the past 6 years, its sole value is for producing beams, for its other uses are too time consuming to use.
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

richhiway

Hi, I have cut some nice pine beams with a simple Haddon Lumber maker attachment. I also have a Logosol mill I purchased used on CL. I saw with an old stihl farm boss and a 044. the 044 seems to have the right amount of power.I do use ripping chains and I keep them sharp. Below are links to my posts with pics. Good luck on your project.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,73548.msg1116204.html#msg1116204

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,73515.msg1112923.html#msg1112923
Woodmizer LT 40
New Holland 35 hp tractor
Stihl Chainsaws
Ford 340 Backhoe

rasman57

Good stuff you posted Rich.  That M8 is a nice design and appears well made. 

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