Husqvarna chain question

[GDinMaine]

I recently bought a Husqvarna 445 for occassional use as a second, light saw.  I was wondering if I can pick up a more aggressive chain for it.  I'm only familiar with Stihl and they have the "green" and "yellow" chains and I always used the yellow and I'm used to it performing very well.  Can I find a similar rating/performing in Husqvarna chains as well?  The one that came with the saw just seems to be very different and slow.  I know it is a small saw, I have ran similar Stihl before. But the chain made a huge difference in that as well.  Please give me some pointers.

[HolmenTree]

Try the narrow kerf .325 Husqvarna H30 chain or the sister Oregon 95VPX. You will be very impressed with the aggressive chain speed plus the stay sharp capability of the semi chisel cutter design on your Husqvarna 445.

[LeeB]

You may have to tie your saw down to get it to take the chain, but you can put Stihl chain on it.  :D  I run stihl on mine because that's what the saw shop sells.

[sawguy21]

95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).

[SawTroll]

95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).

The is a chance (a big one) that his saw actually came with the H30/95VPX and a NK bar.

For more agressive chain my choise would be 21LPX (H21) if the bar is .058, or 20LPX (H23) if it is .050. Husky chain is rebranded Oregon chain

There never was a 20LG or 21LG.

[LeeB]

I'm always hesitant to post anything in this type thread for fear of the gurus coming along and making me look like I know nothing, even if it is true.  :D

[GDinMaine]

Thanks guys.  I will search for the chain(s) you recommended. 
Looking at the Husqvarna site my saw likely came with the H30 as it is their low kick-back chain.

[chester_tree _farmah]

Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may nto be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.

[chester_tree _farmah]

Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may not be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.

[John Mc]

95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).

The is a chance (a big one) that his saw actually came with the H30/95VPX and a NK bar.

For more agressive chain my choise would be 21LPX (H21) if the bar is .058, or 20LPX (H23) if it is .050. Husky chain is rebranded Oregon chain

Around here, it seems to vary from region to region or dealer to dealer (or whether you buy it in a big box store or a chainsaw shop).

My Jonsered 2152 came with a .325 pitch .058 gauge bar and had Oregon 21LPX (which may have been Oregon 21LP back then?).  I've tried other brands, but keep coming back to the Oregon.  I bought a used saw that had a narrow-kerf set up, but switched it over just to be compatible with my other saws.

[SawTroll]

Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may nto be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.

Likely coinsidenses, with chain from different production batches?

...or maybe you have got some Brazilian made Oregon chain (I don't know the full story yet)?

[SawTroll]

95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).

The is a chance (a big one) that his saw actually came with the H30/95VPX and a NK bar.

For more agressive chain my choise would be 21LPX (H21) if the bar is .058, or 20LPX (H23) if it is .050. Husky chain is rebranded Oregon chain

Around here, it seems to vary from region to region or dealer to dealer (or whether you buy it in a big box store or a chainsaw shop).

My Jonsered 2152 came with a .325 pitch .058 gauge bar and had Oregon 21LPX (which may have been Oregon 21LP back then?).  I've tried other brands, but keep coming back to the Oregon.  I bought a used saw that had a narrow-kerf set up, but switched it over just to be compatible with my other saws.

Yes, that is why I stated "a chance".....

[CTYank]

Of course, the simplest way to make any chain its most aggressive is to keep it razor-sharp.

Best way I've found over the years to do that is Granberg "File-N-Joint" clamp-on file guide. Given that, various Oregon and Woodland Pro (Carlton) work fine for me. Around me, a given Stihl loop costs about twice as much, and gotta go to Stihl dealer.

For 3/8" now I build a loop from a 100' reel of Woodland Pro 30SC. Great value.
For 3/8" LP, Oregon VXL (chamfered corner), with a reel in my future.

[SawTroll]

Proper freehand filing beats any sort of guide - and is faster to do. Avoid guides if you can......

[John Mc]

Proper freehand filing beats any sort of guide - and is faster to do. Avoid guides if you can......

I suppose the key there is "proper".  I've met a lot of guys who think they can free-hand file (with nothing other than the round file itself, and a handle). I've only met a few who can actually do it and get consistently good results. The majority are OK for that first touch up when the chain gets dull, but if they repeatedly file freehand without a machine grind or some other sort of guided filing in between free-hand filing, things start to drift out of whack.

The ones who really can free-hand file reliably and repeatedly impress me. Unfortunately, I'm not one of those guys. I can hold the angles well, but never got the knack of keeping consistent depth, generally ending up with too much hook because I went too deep.  I finally gave up and use this to keep me from getting to high or low:


 

And this (the one on the left) for setting my depth gauges:

 

[SawTroll]

To free hand properly, you do of course have to keep a close look at exactly what you are doing - and make sure the file is at the right hight.

I do use guides for setting the rakers, and the progressive Husky ones (like in your picture) are the best there is. You do of course have to make sure you use the right one for the chain model at hand, they all are made for a few specific models of Oregon/Husky chain.

[CTYank]

Proper freehand filing beats any sort of guide - and is faster to do. Avoid guides if you can......

Remember to insert an "IMHO" now and then. I've heard many folks crow about their freehand, or minimally guided, filing skills, but, IMHO, it didn't really pan out. Never was worth a darn for me, and I tried pretty hard to make it work. Angles and other parameters just kept wandering off from goal.

Gotta wonder if you've spent any time trying a file guide. Only in an absolute emergency would I use one of the sheet-metal filing guides. Forget free-handing. Funny how the few folks I've introduced to guided filing (took minutes) would also never go back, if at all possible. Free-hand filing is, relatively, extremely crude. Just yesterday, I had the pleasure of introducing another sawyer to using a file guide. Took maybe 10 minutes to get his almost-used-up chain back to spitting big chips. Of course, much preferable to the typical saw-shop grinder.

And ... I flat refuse to vary anything but file-size for a specific chain. IMHO that just won't cut it.

[SawTroll]

Remember to insert an "IMHO" now and then. I've heard many folks crow about their freehand, or minimally guided, filing skills, but, IMHO, it didn't really pan out.

.....

I beleve it is clear to most Readers that the discussion is about different opinions and experiences - there should be no need to point that out all the time.....

[HolmenTree]

I have to support Saw Trolls theory about free hand filing where you need a "good view" of what your doing with the file.
A file guide does give the hand filer a proper control of the file height etc. But it does restrict the view of the filing process ....to a point.
With practice filing wear reading glasses to see what your file is doing if your over 40 years old  :D
Filing technique relies on downward and backwards pressure on the file into the cutter's gullet, rule of thumb for proper sideplate angle is 1/10 of the file diameter should be above the cutter's top plate cutting edge.......again I have to mention reading glasses are very important.
Take your time with using a "sharp " file with pressure on the forward stroke and release pressure on the back stroke.
Learn to "see" the shiny rounded dull cutting  edge disappear into a sharp "non shiny" cutting edge.
Also my advice is never have direct sunlight  shine on the cutter's top plate surface.....practice, practice.

[beenthere]

I have to support Saw Trolls theory about free hand filing where you need a "good view" of what your doing with the file.
A file guide does give the hand filer a proper control of the file height etc. But it does restrict the view of the filing process ....to a point.

And, IMHO, the reason I (after using many of the different filing guides over the years) now prefer the Husqvarna roller guide, which handles the depth very well for me and gives me full view of the tooth.
Until I tried this guide, I had settled on just the bare file and learned to hold the file to not get too much hook.

All boils down to what we are most happy with, or if we are just satisfied enough with the results of our labor.

I've a good friend who is content with his filing results, but IMO his chains are not sharp (the way I like them).
Someone else may just scoff at my chain sharpening, but I'm happy and think they cannot be better.  ;)

[HolmenTree]

Filing gauge guide for the depth gauges is a must, and I akways use one. As a matter of fact at the ripe old age of 16 I learned to file with a Oregon file holder guide.....kind of like training wheels on my daughters bicycle. :D

[SawTroll]

Filing gauge guide for the depth gauges is a must, and I akways use one. As a matter of fact at the ripe old age of 16 I learned to file with a Oregon file holder guide.....kind of like training wheels on my daughters bicycle. :D

Yes! 

[d1hamby]

I've used all kinds of jigs and guides on my chains. The first couple touch ups I can do free hand but I have to use a grinding wheel chain saw sharpening machine when things get too out of whack. Some teeth get shorter than others and you have to use a micrometer to measure each one to get them back in line or just use a machine. I check for sharpness on each tooth by feeling for the burr the file leaves on the corner of the tooth.

[John Mc]

If you use the right kind of depth gauge, having all of the teeth be exactly the same length becomes less critical. Since the tooth height gets lower as the tooth is filed back, a depth gauge that rides on top of two or more teeth doesn't really customize the depth gauge for the tooth immediately following it. A tooth that is shorter than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too high for that tooth, since the other teeth are holding your depth gauge up too high. Likewise, a tooth that is longer than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too low. Especially a problem if you end up with all the cutters on one side shorter than the other side: one side will have depth gauges too high, the other too low.

Using the gauges shown earlier (or the Carlton file-o-plate or the flip out gauge on the roller guide) set the depth gauge relative to the tooth it affects, helping to assure your teeth are all cutting similar-sized chips.

[SawTroll]

If you use the right kind of depth gauge, having all of the teeth be exactly the same length becomes less critical. Since the tooth height gets lower as the tooth is filed back, a depth gauge that rides on top of two or more teeth doesn't really customize the depth gauge for the tooth immediately following it. A tooth that is shorter than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too high for that tooth, since the other teeth are holding your depth gauge up too high. Likewise, a tooth that is longer than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too low. Especially a problem if you end up with all the cutters on one side shorter than the other side: one side will have depth gauges too high, the other too low.

Using the gauges shown earlier (or the Carlton file-o-plate or the flip out gauge on the roller guide) set the depth gauge relative to the tooth it affects, helping to assure your teeth are all cutting similar-sized chips.

That is mostly correct - but the rakers will be off in a different way than you decribed, when using some of the guides that ride on the top of two cutters.  ;)

[John Mc]

Yeah, I was thinking of the "saddle" type gauges that sit on  teeth on both sides of the depth gauge you are filing.  I forgot about the kind that has the filing notch on one end, and sit across two or more teeth on one side of the depth gauge to be filed.

[CTYank]

I've used all kinds of jigs and guides on my chains. The first couple touch ups I can do free hand but I have to use a grinding wheel chain saw sharpening machine when things get too out of whack. Some teeth get shorter than others and you have to use a micrometer to measure each one to get them back in line or just use a machine. I check for sharpness on each tooth by feeling for the burr the file leaves on the corner of the tooth.

Of course, this goes in the face of the ones who evangelize about free-hand filing, but simply can't see how randomization sets in. Incremental changes are small, and potentially cumulative. Easy to fuss up with so many variables to manage simultaneously.

Yes, some guides, the sheet-metal ones that sit atop a tooth, block your view of the teeth. OTOH, the ones that clamp on the bar like Granberg's leave you an excellent view. Also leave you easy access with a finger-tip to "see" your file-height setting very precisely. Not at all slower than free-handing, IMHO, but way better product.

It's all a matter of what works, of what you've tried, ST.

[SawTroll]

Yeah, I was thinking of the "saddle" type gauges that sit on  teeth on both sides of the depth gauge you are filing.  I forgot about the kind that has the filing notch on one end, and sit across two or more teeth on one side of the depth gauge to be filed.

What I was referring to. 

[John Mc]

I use the guide that clamps the round file into a formed piece of sheet metal. I've not had any problems with the fact that it partially obstructs the view of the tooth. Since the guide is holding the file at the appropriate depth, I don't really need to see that aspect. I can see the 25˚ angle by looking at the markings on the guide.  I can also see the edge of the tooth in the slot between the file and the metal guide, so I can see when the file has taken off enough to "seat" itself against the edge of the tooth (I can usually feel when that happens as well).

About the only thing I can't see well is something I also can't see with a bare file:  how parallel the file is to the ground (or whether it has the 10˚ down angle). That's more due to the angle at which I'm viewing - looking down from above - than the type of guide I'm using.

I like this guide because it doesn't take up a lot of space, so it's easy to carry along. It also protects the file a bit when it's in my chainsaw toolbox.  Call it "training wheels", or whatever you want. It works well for me, so I use it. I do need to try one of those roller guides again sometime. I tried it once, but just wasn't as comfortable or as fast with it. It is nice and compact, however.  As someone else mentioned, if I friend had a Timberline sharpener, I'd give it a try. It's just too expensive to order one to see if I might like it.

[HolmenTree]

On the subject of file holders or guides as they are sometimes called, here's a pic of an old vintage still in the box McCulloch file holder that I have.
Notice the $3.75 price on the box so must be a very old file holder. Anyone ever used one of these?

 

[GDinMaine]

I thought I would follow up on this subject.  I went to the dealer asking about chains my little Husky 445. I mentioned that I would like to buy a chain that is similar in characteristics to the Stihl RS chain.  He just said: "Why don't you just buy the RS chain that fits that saw.?" It turns out Stihl manufactures that particular size so they can be sold to Husqvarna owners.  The different chain put that little saw into a whole different category.  I'm happy with it ... end of rant...
Thanks to all who gave advice on this.

[49er]

Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may nto be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.

I know this is an old dead thread but Chester's comment,#7, is what my buddies,yes I have some,at the restaurant have been saying for a long time. They swear Husquvarna branded chain is superior to Oregon. I can not confirm nor din-eye this. Does anyone else have an opinion?

[Grandpa]

49er

Yes, in my opinion Husqvarna chain is harder than Oregon chain, despite what I've been told.

[snowshoveler]

Here in Canada...Husqvarna is still miffed about bar and chain shortages a year or 2 ago from Oregon supply.
It would not surprise me at all if they were bringing in their own chain and bars from Europe.
A lot of Husqvarna bars now come to our shop in a Husqvarna box with the cardboard wrapper being just a plain white sleeve. That never happened before. They were always in a printed fancy sleeve.
Regards Chris

[ehp]

I think it depends on what Oregon factory the chain comes from, guys here have been complaining about Oregon chain being very soft but that chain turned out to becoming from 1 plant and not the plant in Canada, Blunt was all over this soft chain pretty fast once dealers started to complain . AS far as using depth gauges or filing jigs I know I'm abit different than most . I donot use anything , everything is done free hand even on my race chains .

[HolmenTree]

The Portland Oregon plant has rolled out some soft batches from my experiences ordering rolls over the years from Baileys. 
To be honest for years  I have only filed all my chain free hand  too without a guide or gauge. From experience as you learn how a saw feels in the cut....you learn how a round and flat file feel in the cut.
Race chain.....it's just me but I'm a little more fussy, I still file free hand but I back it up with straight edges,feeler gauges and calipers. ;D

[SawTroll]

Here in Canada...Husqvarna is still miffed about bar and chain shortages a year or 2 ago from Oregon supply.
It would not surprise me at all if they were bringing in their own chain and bars from Europe.
A lot of Husqvarna bars now come to our shop in a Husqvarna box with the cardboard wrapper being just a plain white sleeve. That never happened before. They were always in a printed fancy sleeve.
Regards Chris

A new Husky chain factory in Sweden was supposed to start production in 2015 - but I haven't seen any results yet?

I don't know how much of the production they plan to move "in-house".

[ehp]

I donot think anyone could be more fussy than me , that's the problem . Filing jigs have way to much movement built into them , Your guide points on most are only 2 to 3 inches apart so over a full stroke of the file there can be a lot of angles change just from the play in the jig . If the guide points were 24 inches apart then they would be far more accurate , Yes I know the file is a lot shorter than that but build the jig so there is as close to zero movement . As far as race chains go I only build for whom I want and like and they do very well at the Stihl series and Hayward . 

[HolmenTree]

Good points there Ed about the jig with the tight tolerances. ....in the last few years I've  been working  on my own jig design now that I got a proper chain vise to file the chain on.
I hear you can build a fine race saw, how are you in the cold start and making your 3 competitive cuts?

[ehp]

I'm won my fair share of shows in Canada and USA but not good business building saws and racing against your own stuff. If you beat them you kept the faster stuff for yourself so I quit racing . Now I have had both shoulders pretty much rebuilt , got 52 pieces of steel in the left shoulder and 31 pieces in right shoulder but now I find it a lot easier to do the cuts , I'm a lot more accurate on where I want the saw to hit on the log/cant than before . I still play around but really have very little interest in racing these days . As far as cold start on a 20 inch bottom with 12 inch log so 32 inch top which is pretty much standard for up here with a 3120 I'm in the .85 to .90 sec average time on cold start, lower the block the faster it would be . I'm not as strong as I use to be but then again I'm about 50 pounds lighter than when I raced plus I'm older

[ehp]

Now back to the chain, I use husky chain as I get it from a dealer in the states but to me its the same chain as the Oregon chain that comes from blunt here an hour away , same hardness , same cutter , same chain

[49er]

Ehp,I believe you are right but I'll never convince those guys at the cafe.

[HolmenTree]

I'm won my fair share of shows in Canada and USA but not good business building saws and racing against your own stuff. If you beat them you kept the faster stuff for yourself so I quit racing . Now I have had both shoulders pretty much rebuilt , got 52 pieces of steel in the left shoulder and 31 pieces in right shoulder but now I find it a lot easier to do the cuts , I'm a lot more accurate on where I want the saw to hit on the log/cant than before . I still play around but really have very little interest in racing these days . As far as cold start on a 20 inch bottom with 12 inch log so 32 inch top which is pretty much standard for up here with a 3120 I'm in the .85 to .90 sec average time on cold start, lower the block the faster it would be . I'm not as strong as I use to be but then again I'm about 50 pounds lighter than when I raced plus I'm older

Good post Ed, thanks.
Knock on wood I'm still in good shape relating to your shoulders. ....that's gotta slow a guy down a bit.
My wife says I should get involved competing again and do a little  traveling .  I don't want to go back to the 2 day carving events . But a little  chopping and using one of J.P. Mercier's latest bow saw blades would be fun.
I've never been to Hayward , that was always on my wish list to compete there.
Maybe they have a senior citizen event there :D