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Husqvarna chain question

Started by GDinMaine, July 17, 2014, 10:45:54 PM

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GDinMaine

I recently bought a Husqvarna 445 for occassional use as a second, light saw.  I was wondering if I can pick up a more aggressive chain for it.  I'm only familiar with Stihl and they have the "green" and "yellow" chains and I always used the yellow and I'm used to it performing very well.  Can I find a similar rating/performing in Husqvarna chains as well?  The one that came with the saw just seems to be very different and slow.  I know it is a small saw, I have ran similar Stihl before. But the chain made a huge difference in that as well.  Please give me some pointers.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

HolmenTree

Try the narrow kerf .325 Husqvarna H30 chain or the sister Oregon 95VPX. You will be very impressed with the aggressive chain speed plus the stay sharp capability of the semi chisel cutter design on your Husqvarna 445.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

LeeB

You may have to tie your saw down to get it to take the chain, but you can put Stihl chain on it.  :D  I run stihl on mine because that's what the saw shop sells.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

sawguy21

95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

SawTroll

Quote from: sawguy21 on July 17, 2014, 11:40:54 PM
95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).

The is a chance (a big one) that his saw actually came with the H30/95VPX and a NK bar.

For more agressive chain my choise would be 21LPX (H21) if the bar is .058, or 20LPX (H23) if it is .050. Husky chain is rebranded Oregon chain

There never was a 20LG or 21LG.

Information collector.

LeeB

I'm always hesitant to post anything in this type thread for fear of the gurus coming along and making me look like I know nothing, even if it is true.  :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

GDinMaine

Thanks guys.  I will search for the chain(s) you recommended. 
Looking at the Husqvarna site my saw likely came with the H30 as it is their low kick-back chain.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

chester_tree _farmah

Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may nto be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

chester_tree _farmah

Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may not be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

John Mc

Quote from: SawTroll on July 18, 2014, 05:02:45 AM
Quote from: sawguy21 on July 17, 2014, 11:40:54 PM
95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).

The is a chance (a big one) that his saw actually came with the H30/95VPX and a NK bar.

For more agressive chain my choise would be 21LPX (H21) if the bar is .058, or 20LPX (H23) if it is .050. Husky chain is rebranded Oregon chain

Around here, it seems to vary from region to region or dealer to dealer (or whether you buy it in a big box store or a chainsaw shop).

My Jonsered 2152 came with a .325 pitch .058 gauge bar and had Oregon 21LPX (which may have been Oregon 21LP back then?).  I've tried other brands, but keep coming back to the Oregon.  I bought a used saw that had a narrow-kerf set up, but switched it over just to be compatible with my other saws.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

SawTroll

Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on July 18, 2014, 12:31:27 PM
Husky chain is made by Oregon yes - but I find it holds an edge better than the same Oregon chain - IMO - so it may be a copy design wise but they may specify different metal content or hardening process. IMO. It may nto be just the Husly name that makes them a little more $.

Likely coinsidenses, with chain from different production batches?

...or maybe you have got some Brazilian made Oregon chain (I don't know the full story yet)?
Information collector.

SawTroll

Quote from: John Mc on July 20, 2014, 09:56:31 AM
Quote from: SawTroll on July 18, 2014, 05:02:45 AM
Quote from: sawguy21 on July 17, 2014, 11:40:54 PM
95VP works very well but needs to be matched to the thinner Microlite bar. Your chain likely has bumper links to reduce kick back, try Oregon 20LG or 21LG (depending on the gauge of the bar).

The is a chance (a big one) that his saw actually came with the H30/95VPX and a NK bar.

For more agressive chain my choise would be 21LPX (H21) if the bar is .058, or 20LPX (H23) if it is .050. Husky chain is rebranded Oregon chain

Around here, it seems to vary from region to region or dealer to dealer (or whether you buy it in a big box store or a chainsaw shop).

My Jonsered 2152 came with a .325 pitch .058 gauge bar and had Oregon 21LPX (which may have been Oregon 21LP back then?).  I've tried other brands, but keep coming back to the Oregon.  I bought a used saw that had a narrow-kerf set up, but switched it over just to be compatible with my other saws.

Yes, that is why I stated "a chance"..... :)
Information collector.

CTYank

Of course, the simplest way to make any chain its most aggressive is to keep it razor-sharp.

Best way I've found over the years to do that is Granberg "File-N-Joint" clamp-on file guide. Given that, various Oregon and Woodland Pro (Carlton) work fine for me. Around me, a given Stihl loop costs about twice as much, and gotta go to Stihl dealer.

For 3/8" now I build a loop from a 100' reel of Woodland Pro 30SC. Great value.
For 3/8" LP, Oregon VXL (chamfered corner), with a reel in my future.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

SawTroll

Proper freehand filing beats any sort of guide - and is faster to do. Avoid guides if you can......

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John Mc

Quote from: SawTroll on July 23, 2014, 06:53:27 AM
Proper freehand filing beats any sort of guide - and is faster to do. Avoid guides if you can......

I suppose the key there is "proper".  I've met a lot of guys who think they can free-hand file (with nothing other than the round file itself, and a handle). I've only met a few who can actually do it and get consistently good results. The majority are OK for that first touch up when the chain gets dull, but if they repeatedly file freehand without a machine grind or some other sort of guided filing in between free-hand filing, things start to drift out of whack.

The ones who really can free-hand file reliably and repeatedly impress me. Unfortunately, I'm not one of those guys. I can hold the angles well, but never got the knack of keeping consistent depth, generally ending up with too much hook because I went too deep.  I finally gave up and use this to keep me from getting to high or low:


 

And this (the one on the left) for setting my depth gauges:

 
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

SawTroll

To free hand properly, you do of course have to keep a close look at exactly what you are doing - and make sure the file is at the right hight.

I do use guides for setting the rakers, and the progressive Husky ones (like in your picture) are the best there is. You do of course have to make sure you use the right one for the chain model at hand, they all are made for a few specific models of Oregon/Husky chain.
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CTYank

Quote from: SawTroll on July 23, 2014, 06:53:27 AM
Proper freehand filing beats any sort of guide - and is faster to do. Avoid guides if you can......

Remember to insert an "IMHO" now and then. I've heard many folks crow about their freehand, or minimally guided, filing skills, but, IMHO, it didn't really pan out. Never was worth a darn for me, and I tried pretty hard to make it work. Angles and other parameters just kept wandering off from goal.

Gotta wonder if you've spent any time trying a file guide. Only in an absolute emergency would I use one of the sheet-metal filing guides. Forget free-handing. Funny how the few folks I've introduced to guided filing (took minutes) would also never go back, if at all possible. Free-hand filing is, relatively, extremely crude. Just yesterday, I had the pleasure of introducing another sawyer to using a file guide. Took maybe 10 minutes to get his almost-used-up chain back to spitting big chips. Of course, much preferable to the typical saw-shop grinder.

And ... I flat refuse to vary anything but file-size for a specific chain. IMHO that just won't cut it.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

SawTroll

Quote from: CTYank on July 27, 2014, 04:59:32 AM

Remember to insert an "IMHO" now and then. I've heard many folks crow about their freehand, or minimally guided, filing skills, but, IMHO, it didn't really pan out.

.....

I beleve it is clear to most Readers that the discussion is about different opinions and experiences - there should be no need to point that out all the time..... :)
Information collector.

HolmenTree

I have to support Saw Trolls theory about free hand filing where you need a "good view" of what your doing with the file.
A file guide does give the hand filer a proper control of the file height etc. But it does restrict the view of the filing process ....to a point.
With practice filing wear reading glasses to see what your file is doing if your over 40 years old  :D
Filing technique relies on downward and backwards pressure on the file into the cutter's gullet, rule of thumb for proper sideplate angle is 1/10 of the file diameter should be above the cutter's top plate cutting edge.......again I have to mention reading glasses are very important.
Take your time with using a "sharp " file with pressure on the forward stroke and release pressure on the back stroke.
Learn to "see" the shiny rounded dull cutting  edge disappear into a sharp "non shiny" cutting edge.
Also my advice is never have direct sunlight  shine on the cutter's top plate surface.....practice, practice.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

beenthere

QuoteI have to support Saw Trolls theory about free hand filing where you need a "good view" of what your doing with the file.
A file guide does give the hand filer a proper control of the file height etc. But it does restrict the view of the filing process ....to a point.

And, IMHO, the reason I (after using many of the different filing guides over the years) now prefer the Husqvarna roller guide, which handles the depth very well for me and gives me full view of the tooth.
Until I tried this guide, I had settled on just the bare file and learned to hold the file to not get too much hook.

All boils down to what we are most happy with, or if we are just satisfied enough with the results of our labor.

I've a good friend who is content with his filing results, but IMO his chains are not sharp (the way I like them).
Someone else may just scoff at my chain sharpening, but I'm happy and think they cannot be better.  ;)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

HolmenTree

Filing gauge guide for the depth gauges is a must, and I akways use one. As a matter of fact at the ripe old age of 16 I learned to file with a Oregon file holder guide.....kind of like training wheels on my daughters bicycle. :D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

SawTroll

Quote from: HolmenTree on July 29, 2014, 12:32:22 PM
Filing gauge guide for the depth gauges is a must, and I akways use one. As a matter of fact at the ripe old age of 16 I learned to file with a Oregon file holder guide.....kind of like training wheels on my daughters bicycle. :D

Yes!  :)
Information collector.

d1hamby

I've used all kinds of jigs and guides on my chains. The first couple touch ups I can do free hand but I have to use a grinding wheel chain saw sharpening machine when things get too out of whack. Some teeth get shorter than others and you have to use a micrometer to measure each one to get them back in line or just use a machine. I check for sharpness on each tooth by feeling for the burr the file leaves on the corner of the tooth.
Own a Stihl 362 16" 0.050" carbide and steel, and 25" 0.063" Stihl 020T
Stihl KM131R, 130R and KM56R with several Brush Cutter and Weed Trimmer heads. Pole Pruner (with 10", 12" w/wo Carbide, and 16" bar&chains) , Blower, Modified 135° Hedge Trimmer, Straight Edger, Bed Edger, Tiller Kombi attchment

John Mc

If you use the right kind of depth gauge, having all of the teeth be exactly the same length becomes less critical. Since the tooth height gets lower as the tooth is filed back, a depth gauge that rides on top of two or more teeth doesn't really customize the depth gauge for the tooth immediately following it. A tooth that is shorter than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too high for that tooth, since the other teeth are holding your depth gauge up too high. Likewise, a tooth that is longer than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too low. Especially a problem if you end up with all the cutters on one side shorter than the other side: one side will have depth gauges too high, the other too low.

Using the gauges shown earlier (or the Carlton file-o-plate or the flip out gauge on the roller guide) set the depth gauge relative to the tooth it affects, helping to assure your teeth are all cutting similar-sized chips.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

SawTroll

Quote from: John Mc on July 30, 2014, 08:12:45 AM
If you use the right kind of depth gauge, having all of the teeth be exactly the same length becomes less critical. Since the tooth height gets lower as the tooth is filed back, a depth gauge that rides on top of two or more teeth doesn't really customize the depth gauge for the tooth immediately following it. A tooth that is shorter than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too high for that tooth, since the other teeth are holding your depth gauge up too high. Likewise, a tooth that is longer than the rest will have a depth gauge that is too low. Especially a problem if you end up with all the cutters on one side shorter than the other side: one side will have depth gauges too high, the other too low.

Using the gauges shown earlier (or the Carlton file-o-plate or the flip out gauge on the roller guide) set the depth gauge relative to the tooth it affects, helping to assure your teeth are all cutting similar-sized chips.

That is mostly correct - but the rakers will be off in a different way than you decribed, when using some of the guides that ride on the top of two cutters.  ;)
Information collector.

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