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3 point winch hydraulics

Started by North River Energy, July 14, 2014, 09:17:16 AM

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North River Energy

I've been tasked with repairing a homebuilt skidding winch. Need to replace the drive motor.
Anyone have any insight into required torque, rpm, or maybe the name/numbers off a data tag?
Or a link to a previous discussion?
The winch proper is worm drive, looks like 8-12k, direct coupled to the hydraulic motor.  I can reconfigure to a chain/cog drive if necessary.
Thanks.

chester_tree _farmah

So u are replacing the hydraulic motor that turns the worm drive? Pics of it may help ring a bell with the folks on here. Most hydraulic shops can probably tell u if u can get them internal gear specs/measurement s. Aka pull the old motor apart and show them. There are formulas if u want to figure it out yourself me thinks.
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

Stephen Alford

This may not help but it is what I have from the hydraulic winch I use.  The lower number is speed in FPM.


 
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bill m

Look up Baum Hydraulics. They have spec. calculators for almost anything hydraulic.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

North River Energy

Thanks.
There's a few points on the curve.
SA, which motor on the chart do you have on your winch?


Chester TF
1. Yes.
2. The 'motor' is a Hydreco gear pump.  Looks exactly like the steering pump on my '58 Michigan.
Given it's previous occupation, there is a very good chance the thrust plates and bushings are worn out.
Regardless of condition, and with the understanding that a pump can be used as a motor for some applications, it's not the right chunk for the job at hand.

chester_tree _farmah

254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

North River Energy

^Thanks anyway for offering a suggestion.

Stephen Alford

   Hoped the chart would illustrate the difference of motor size as it related to speed and pull. I went with the number 10....24 years and counting. Chain drive ,had to replace the cog once, just wore out.  Had it on a td7 , then 3pthitch,  now mounted on the front of farm tractor so grapple or loader can be on the back.


  

  

 


  
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chester_tree _farmah

Nice pics. Tractors are versatile machines for sure.
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

North River Energy

At least now I know how fast it should spool.  That's a help.
Any chance of a tooth count on the cogs? 
At your convenience, of course.

Is that a Fransgard grapple on the Ford, or did you build your own?

Stephen Alford

   Did not have bolt seals or gasket if I removed the cover to do a cog count. Will try and find the old cog first.


 
   The grapple was a R&D project at the time it was built here, tried to find solutions to problems small contractors were having yarding trail cut wood.

  

 
    Used now for slash and house lot work.
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North River Energy

No need to do any exploratory dentistry on my account.  I was thinking you had an open chain and cog configuration...


North River Energy

Another project off the list.

Here's the before picture:


 

Turns out the winch is a Ramsey, probably from a Jeep?
Ramsey lists the specs for a similar gear reduction unit, 46:1 ratio, maximum 1000rpm at the input, with max torque around 1000inch/lbs.

Surplus Center had a nice motor that came very close to those numbers @ the 11gpm of the tractor in question. 
And it was cheap @$80. This should pull 20fpm on the first wrap.  It's a little slow, but a slow winch is better than no winch...

Made a pilot hub spacer and drilled one more hole in the winch frame:


 

A-frame and butt plate (old Fisher plow moldboard):


 


Tractor side with kickstand:


 


Impromptu cable brake/winding guide:


 


Ready for the first hitch.


  



Who'll come a-Winching Mahindra, with me..?

snowstorm


kensfarm

Nice job..  heavy duty..  I like it.   Maybe a coat of paint next.. what color?

thecfarm

North River Energy,a very nice job!! Try to winch in a straight line as you can. That winch can tip the tractor over on a sharp angle pull. I like the plow for a butt plate. Post a picture of some wood behind it.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

chester_tree _farmah

Nice! Looks like a fisher blade. The right choice if it is. :-)
254xp
C4B Can-Car Tree Farmer
Ford 1720 4wd loader hoe

North River Energy

Thanks all, for the positive feedback.

The Fisher had more meat on the bone than the Meyer.

Paint would 'gloss over' the narrative and obscure the process involved in making 'junk' useful.
It's not to every taste, but the marks of age and history make a machine just a bit more interesting.
Also, if I painted it, I'd have trouble telling where the tractor ended and the winch began...But thanks for thinking it deserves a good shine.

Should have a picture with full chokers in a few days time.

thecfarm

North River Energy,I have boxes about 6X6" to put the chains in on my Norse. About 3 feet hangs and the rest in the box. I keep four on one side and 2 on the other. Than I have six 4 foot chains made up.


 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

North River Energy

Thanks Ray.  Here's a photo for ya.



 

Should have made the butt plate shorter to get the butts further off the ground and permit the use of shorter chokers. 

I can fix that with the blue wrench when work slows down.

thecfarm

could also lower the hooks ups to the hyd arms too. That looks good with some wood behind it!
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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