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Hydraulic line keeps blowing off

Started by wheelinguy, July 13, 2014, 06:21:17 AM

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wheelinguy

I have been running my Huskee wood splitter from TSC now for about 8 years with no problems.  It has now decided to blow off the hydraulic return line, nothing like a warm oil shower on an 85 degree day.  I was wondering if anyone might be able to help me out on this one.  Sometimes the automatic release on the return sticks but it has done this in the past.  Its usually good for about 45 minutes and then the return line pops off and hoses you down.  The line is only held on by hose clamps, and yes that is the way it was sold.  I was thinking about taking it to the local parts store and having a proper line installed with threaded fittings, but that seems like I may be asking for trouble.  Clearly there is something going wrong here and with my limited understanding of hydraulics I don't know where to start.  I have changed the filter and blown out the hole in the plug that allows the tank to "breathe". 

Oliver1655

Which end of the hose is coming loose?

When you reattach the hose, is there enough slack you can cut of the length of the barb, 1-1/2", from the end so you have fresh hose to work with.  Over time the hose will try to balloon & the area the barb was in becomes deformed.
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

stumpjumper83

have you tried cleaning the end of the hose and the nipple with brake cleaner before re-attaching?  A little oil on the nipple will grease that connection pretty well and help it to slip.  Also the hose end could be stretched from 8 years of being there, might be time to try a new hose.  If you have tried both the filter and the breather, only other idea might be to be sure it isn't overfilled with oil.

Gadrock

Nothing unusual for a low pressure (return) hose to swell with age. May be the break down process of the rubber like material.

I will bet the problem will go away when the complete hose is replaced with a new one, with new compressions clamps, after the fittings are washed clean with solvent making a totally dry fit.

David G

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martyinmi

Have you changed your hydraulic oil filter yet?

That would be the first place I'd start.
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wheelinguy

The hose was replaced about 2 years ago, I will try cutting it back a bit and cleaning both the hose and fitting to eliminate any oil.  The filter was just replaced yesterday.  I am certain that it is not overfull. Any other suggestions are welcome.  I'll keep you posted on whether or not the simple fixes work.  Thanks

North River Energy

Your filter 'housing' may have a 1/8 or 1/4 npt port where you can install a gauge upstream of the filter /filter bypass.  I'd want to know if the pressure is gradually building, or if it' a sudden spike that takes the line off.  If its the former, you'll be able to save yourself another mess on the way to discovery.

Southside

Well, since it happens after running for 45 minutes or so it sounds like it is heat related.  Which goes along with the return line swelling as it gets warmer and coming loose.  I am guessing that since it is held on with a hose clamp this is not a steel braided line?  In which case it would be more prone to heat swelling.  If it is braided then a hose clamp really is not doing a lot to secure it.  The pressure gauge is a great idea, and assuming you are not suddenly spiking pressure from a pump problem or other issue then I would replace the line with a threaded fitting and braided line the way it should have been done by the mfg.
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beenthere

QuoteI would replace the line with a threaded fitting and braided line the way it should have been done by the mfg.

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Gadrock

Many hydraulic systems use flimsy return lines and fittings. What has been suggested is good design stuff.

Some hydraulic filters are "by-pass" which means only a small amount of the oil actually goes through the filter elements. The other type is "full flow" where all the oil goes through the elements.  Many times people have no idea of the wrath of problems that occur by putting on a full flow element where a by-pass unit is in place. Many times the external design of the filter is the same as the other but part numbers are different.

Some element housings have a place (little plug / screw) where a vacuum or pressure  gauge can be installed. The information can be critical for proper operation.

Changing anything can be problematic. Some hoses are weak when used with certain hydraulic fluids due to the base chemicals they are derived. Case in point is some fluids do not like EPDM but work well with Buna or even Nitrile. That is compatibility.

I would think that if possible I would look up the original filter numbers and type of material in the return lines.

And McMaster-Carr carries a top quality clamp, several different ones, that do not let go from their positions unless backed off manually. In particular I like the spring assisted clamps. If the hose collapses any then the spring assist takes up the slack. You see them quite often around turbo-charger hoses.

David G


carry on
LT40 G18,   bent Cresent wrench,   broken timing light
Prentice 280 loader, Prentice 2432 skidder, Deere 643J fellerbuncher, Deere 648H skidder, Deere 650H Dozer

Gary_C

There is nothing wrong with replacing the low pressure hose on the return line with a line with crimped on fittings. Or another good idea is to use those reusable fittings and regular hydraulic pressure hose. Using hose clamps on wire braided hose never seems to work very long.
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slab

when you change the hose 2 years ago was you having trouble then or did you just changed it because your thought you should you may have used the wrong hose when you replace it
all the eqipment to run saw mill (loders trucks         trailers  ect,) nicely equiped woodworking shop timber wolf tw-6  but no sawmill yet  (wish list 3665 baker)

Al_Smith

Normally you would not build up any pressure to speak of on a return line .

With a suction side filter the return line goes straight to the tank .Of course with a return line style it goes through the filter then to the tank .

I have two splitters in the wood pile which has 12-15 cords of oak unsplit .My homebuilt uses a return line and the TSC 28 tonner is a suction line type .The homebuilt I just used 300 PSI rated Parker-Hannifin synthetic rubber air line .No problems at all .

Try using hose barbed fittings and double hose clamps .

woodmills1

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BBTom

I have seen the same thing happen on a splitter when a valve was sticking.  the cylinder would reach the end of its stroke and keep building pressure up to the relief valve pressure, then when I manually hit the valve lever to go the other direction, the release of the pressure caused the hose to pop off or the filter to blow out the o-ring.  Could this be what is happening?
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CRThomas

Quote from: wheelinguy on July 13, 2014, 06:21:17 AM
I have been running my Huskee wood splitter from TSC now for about 8 years with no problems.  It has now decided to blow off the hydraulic return line, nothing like a warm oil shower on an 85 degree day.  I was wondering if anyone might be able to help me out on this one.  Sometimes the automatic release on the return sticks but it has done this in the past.  Its usually good for about 45 minutes and then the return line pops off and hoses you down.  The line is only held on by hose clamps, and yes that is the way it was sold.  I was thinking about taking it to the local parts store and having a proper line installed with threaded fittings, but that seems like I may be asking for trouble.  Clearly there is something going wrong here and with my limited understanding of hydraulics I don't know where to start.  I have changed the filter and blown out the hole in the plug that allows the tank to "breathe".
I jacked my pressure up my splitter after about 30 minutes to a hour it would blow a close nipple I dropped the pressure it stopped that. Later

Bricklayer51

I have a old mtd that did the same. The vent hole in the fill plug was packed full of dirt and had been painted over. Cleaned it out no more problems.

Al_Smith

FWIW my home built spltter does not have a vented cap,screwed on pipe cap. It will probably hold 15-18 gallons but I only use 7-8 gallons of Dextron II thus room for expansion in the tank .

For that matter the 28 ton TSC splitter also does not use a vent either but it does use a 3000 psi  rated return line .The tank on it will probabley hold 12 gallon but uses around 6 .

Randy88

Question, when you changed the filter, did you cut it open to look at the it, or is it a paper element where you can see what's in it, either way, hows the filter look, is there metal in it?   If the system's making metal, you've got far more problems than a line coming off.   

Do as you wish, but if it were mine, I'd change out the hose clamps and low pressure hose with fittings and even a low pressurized braided hose and install a gauge in the line.     

I'd agree with the valve sticking and building pressure in the line, as valves wears, orings get age on them along with normal spool wear and leaks in the system occur, flow increases on the low pressure line's and pressure spikes will knock lines off, metal contaminates will also block flow and increase pressure.    Its sounds to me like normal wear and tear have increased pressure and flow on your low pressure line and unless you start to spend money on it with new valves and things, your cheapest way to fix the problem is to replace with thread on fittings and a new hose.

Al_Smith

I've been contemplating this problem and a thought occured to me .What if for reasons unknown that splitter was fitted at the factory with an undersized filter .Say 7 gallon per minute on a 13 GPM pump .It could very well happen .

If that might be the case it would be like trying to stuff 5 pounds of potatoes in a 2 pound sack .Easy enough to find out .Unscrew the filter housing and run it direct for a while .If the hose still blows off that's not the problem .

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