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Husquvarna 235 E chain issues.

Started by Joe Hillmann, July 02, 2014, 01:58:26 PM

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Joe Hillmann

I have a Husquvarna 235 E that I plan to rebuild but I have some issues that I want to make sure a new chain would fix before I spend any money on it doing a rebuild.

The first problem I have is it curves to the left when cutting so I can't cut anything thicker than 3 inches or it will start to bind.  The bar looks straight so I am assuming that the blade is just dull on one side and re sharpening it or a new chain will take care re of it.

The other problem is I can't get the chain tension right.  I tighten up the chain to the proper tension, after a couple seconds of cutting it binds up so tight that the saw can barely get the chain to spin even without cutting.  Then I loosen it back up to the proper tension and then it becomes extremely loose when I run it for a few seconds,  There is now in between it is either too tight or loose no matter how I adjust it. 

What could be causing the second problem?  I am thinking it may just be the chain is worn causing it to bind up.  I also worry it may be it isn't getting lubrication, the sprocket on the bar may be worn causing it to jam up or the sprocket on the clutch is worn.  This is the main problem I want to solve before I start working on the engine.

SawTroll

What's a 325 E?

Is this is about the 235E, or is it something else?
Information collector.

Joe Hillmann

Yes, it is a 235, I typed it wrong, I will try and correct it in the original post.

JohnG28

The issue you're having with it cutting in a circle would be your chain has longer cutters or more dull cutters on one side. If you file your own chain then the former would likely be the issue. Just tends to be easier to file one side than the other. As for the binding,  is it binding in the bar or just getting over tightened requiring you to loosen the tensioner? Will the chain move over the bar if taken off the saw?  Could be a loose adjustment bolt or threads could be shot, could be bar tip.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

Andyshine77

If the bar rails are not square the chain will lean to one side. This will cause the saw to not cut straight and bind in the cut. This is caused by poor maintenance of the chain and bar. If the drive sprocket is overly worn it will beat up drive links, making them too tight in the bar. The 235 is a smaller saw, the bars and chains are quite inexpensive. I would replace the drive sprocket, guide bar and chain. It's honestly not worth the trouble messing with old warn out cutting attachments.           
Andre.

SawTroll

Quote from: Andyshine77 on July 03, 2014, 03:10:00 AM
If the bar rails are not square the chain will lean to one side. This will cause the saw to not cut straight and bind in the cut. This is caused by poor maintenance of the chain and bar. If the drive sprocket is overly worn it will beat up drive links, making them too tight in the bar. The 235 is a smaller saw, the bars and chains are quite inexpensive. I would replace the drive sprocket, guide bar and chain. It's honestly not worth the trouble messing with old warn out cutting attachments.           

That is of course true!  :)

The crooked cutting could also be caused by wore out bar rails that allows the chain to lean over - an uncorrectly sharpened Chain, with cutters that are longer/higher on one side than the other, and/or different angles from side to side - or a combination of all the above.....

Even a broken AV mount may cause crooked cutting
Information collector.

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: JohnG28 on July 02, 2014, 11:45:51 PM
As for the binding,  is it binding in the bar or just getting over tightened requiring you to loosen the tensioner? Will the chain move over the bar if taken off the saw? 

I do not know if the chain will run over the bar smoothly when it is off the saw, I will try it and let you know.  What is happening now is I adjust the chain tension to approximately the correct tension, once I run the saw after just a few seconds it tightens up so tight the motor can't spin it.  After that I will loosen the chain back up to the right tension and after a few seconds of running it will become very loose, the drive links are able to come out of the groove in the bar.  No matter how I adjust it it will be too tight or way too loose.

I don't know the history of the saw, it was given to me, the previous owner said it had lost power and wasn't worth his time any more.  I plan to rebuild it but I want to know as much as I can of what is wrong with it before I start sinking money into it.

Fifelaker

A worn sprocket can cause chain tension issues also.

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: Fifelaker on July 03, 2014, 10:14:02 AM
A worn sprocket can cause chain tension issues also.

Do you mean the sprocket on the bar or on the clutch?  If these problems can be solved by buying a new bar and chain that is what I will do.  I don't want to do that if there is a problem with the saw head itself.

SawTroll

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on July 03, 2014, 10:37:33 AM
Quote from: Fifelaker on July 03, 2014, 10:14:02 AM
A worn sprocket can cause chain tension issues also.

Do you mean the sprocket on the bar or on the clutch?  If these problems can be solved by buying a new bar and chain that is what I will do.  I don't want to do that if there is a problem with the saw head itself.

The one on the clutch (the drive sprocket).
Information collector.

Andyshine77

Is the bar/chain getting enough oil? Hold the saw over a piece of cardboard, or something like that, and rev the saw a few times, you should see a nice line of oil. With that said It sounds like you still need to replace the cutting attachments, including the drive sprocket.   
Andre.

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