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oleo mac 952 piston damaged

Started by shiggins, May 31, 2014, 03:26:51 AM

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shiggins

The piston isn't scored on the intake side. I am very carful with my mixes. It was still working so the damasge could of happened a while ago. Maybe I did make a mistake a while ago. Could of been old fuel that settled down. Is hard to pinpoint now.

shiggins

Just getting local prices on the piston and also checking cylinder price.

Online I have found them for $90 in the states as that's for the whole cylinder kit.

The price I got here is 150 just for the piston and rings or 536 for the whole cylinder kit. What's the go here? Chinese vs genuine? Thoughts?

I am still getting more quotes.

Edit

Best local quote ATM is 100 for piston and rings and 320 for cylinder kit. I'll need to get a new gasket as well. It's stuck to the cylinder and is ripped.

7sleeper

To be honest I would get the set from the US if it was genuine. I would save the old cylinder and just put in the new set. Further I would renew all the seals, carb boot, impuls line, etc. just for safety reasons. You will have a practically new saw then, but with proper care this time it should last a life time!

7

shiggins

Quote from: 7sleeper on June 03, 2014, 01:57:36 AM
To be honest I would get the set from the US if it was genuine. I would save the old cylinder and just put in the new set. Further I would renew all the seals, carb boot, impuls line, etc. just for safety reasons. You will have a practically new saw then, but with proper care this time it should last a life time!

7

7 can you do me a favour and explain to me how many and what seals the saw has, the carb boot is the rubber part that attaches to the cylinder (I've got that), what is the impulse line ( is it the line from the carby to the cylinder?) I will try to find a new cylinder gasket. Anything else I need?

Sorry mate but I'm new to all of this. I also don't know how to tell if they are genuin pistons. It does say aftermarket and are from Canada. It would be 50 bucks cheaper from eBay compared to my local.

ladylake

Quote from: shiggins on June 02, 2014, 09:03:38 PM
The piston isn't scored on the intake side. I am very carful with my mixes. It was still working so the damasge could of happened a while ago. Maybe I did make a mistake a while ago. Could of been old fuel that settled down. Is hard to pinpoint now.
[/q
ote]

  In post number 11 you said it was scored on the intake side, either way when run lean the scoring will be on the exhaust side,  no oil or separated junk ethanol it will be all the way around like your piston looks.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

shiggins


shiggins

I've gone local with the parts. Ordered a piston kit and gasket. The piston kit is $100. That's $50 more then eBay but I would have to wait a while from eBay and im not ute about the quality of the eBay kit and import taxes ect. I'm also getting the manifold gasket.

I'll upload some pics of the cylinder tonight. It's looking good

shiggins

 







thats about it i think. what do you fellas reckon?

7sleeper


celliott

Looks like it cleaned up real good.

Wasn't too hard, just took alot of elbow grease, huh?
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

shiggins

Yeh just some elbow grease! lol. now I just wait on the piston and gasket and install. Thanks for the help so far guys.

shiggins

Well the new
Piston is in and I followed Joe_indi instructions. Only problem I have is tuning. This saw has a pre set high and low so I can only back it out one turn on each high and low.so u can only adjust the high and low by half a turn. The idle can be adjusted as much as I want though.

joe_indi

Quote from: shiggins on June 13, 2014, 06:21:36 AM
..........Only problem I have is tuning. This saw has a pre set high and low so I can only back it out one turn on each high and low.so u can only adjust the high and low by half a turn. The idle can be adjusted as much as I want though.

Ahem, nothing prevents you from creating a suitable tool to extract the limiter caps on those screws so that you could do some decent tuning.

shiggins

Quote from: joe_indi on June 13, 2014, 01:00:36 PM
Quote from: shiggins on June 13, 2014, 06:21:36 AM
..........Only problem I have is tuning. This saw has a pre set high and low so I can only back it out one turn on each high and low.so u can only adjust the high and low by half a turn. The idle can be adjusted as much as I want though.

Ahem, nothing prevents you from creating a suitable tool to extract the limiter caps on those screws so that you could do some decent tuning.

This is true Joe,

The high sounds about right though after adjusting it only in the range the saw gives me. obviously i get the saw to a good idle as well. will this be sufficient? i would of  thought these are set from the factory and should allow the user to only adjust only enough for change of climate. I am only a novice though. would you still take the restrictor parts off and adjust it your way? Thanks Joe

CTYank

Quote from: shiggins on June 14, 2014, 01:11:50 AM
Quote from: joe_indi on June 13, 2014, 01:00:36 PM
Quote from: shiggins on June 13, 2014, 06:21:36 AM
..........Only problem I have is tuning. This saw has a pre set high and low so I can only back it out one turn on each high and low.so u can only adjust the high and low by half a turn. The idle can be adjusted as much as I want though.

Ahem, nothing prevents you from creating a suitable tool to extract the limiter caps on those screws so that you could do some decent tuning.

This is true Joe,

The high sounds about right though after adjusting it only in the range the saw gives me. obviously i get the saw to a good idle as well. will this be sufficient? i would of  thought these are set from the factory and should allow the user to only adjust only enough for change of climate. I am only a novice though. would you still take the restrictor parts off and adjust it your way? Thanks Joe

The fact that the crown of your original piston melted so it could seize the upper ring tells me that the engine was running too lean, no matter the shortage of mix oil.

Thus I'd be sure to be able to adjust the H mixture as required to be certain not to melt things again.

When it's adjusted right, after being warmed up, the engine will 2-stroke @WOT under full load, then transition to 4-stroking when you lift. Lots of info you can "google" on those and how to get there.

Going forward, dump tank when storing saw for more than a few weeks, use FRESH mix and pure-syn oil meeting both these specs: JASO FC or FD, ISO-L-EGD at 40:1. Lots cheaper than engines. Store all the fuel in a cool/dry place- helps avoid moisture probs.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

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