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Practical Width for Two Post Bent

Started by Believer, May 16, 2014, 08:31:51 AM

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Believer

I've been casually planning a timberframe home on my Kansas property since I took a timberframing class at Northern Lights about six years ago.  Time to get serious--it's time to retire.  I'm working a rough floorplan and frame design and will have an architect refine it.  Anyway, to my question.  A bent I really like and want to use is like one in the Bunny Vista frame  http://bunnyvista.wordpress.com/category/building-techniques/timber-frame-building-techniques/.  It utilizes sling braces and a high collar tie.  The Bunny Vista bent is 20' wide.  My question is how wide can I make a bent like that--can I go to 24' or 28'?

I have another question while I'm posting.  What is the best method for connecting a post to a monolithic slab?  Do I use a metal structure set in the concrete that tenons into the post?  Can I buy the parts somewhere?

Thanks in advance for any advice to a beginner.

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Believer on May 16, 2014, 08:31:51 AM
My question is how wide can I make a bent like that--can I go to 24' or 28'?

In order to answer a question like that, an engineer would ask you for lots of information. You'll need to tell him what type of wood you intend to use. You'll need to tell him all the loads that will be placed on the bent. Or he'll figure the loads once you explain to him what the structure is going to be used as/for. There is no easy quick answer without doing a lot of figuring.

QuoteWhat is the best method for connecting a post to a monolithic slab?  Do I use a metal structure set in the concrete that tenons into the post?

There are lots of methods of connecting timber to concrete. The most important thing is to put a moisture barrier between the two. If you don't you'll run the risk of the wood wicking up moisture out of the concrete.

QuoteCan I buy the parts somewhere?

It all depends on the size of the timbers. There are some companies that do make connection pieces. Lots of things are custom made.

Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

timberwrestler

That is a nice frame.  Jordan, who designed and cut it, is a very talented guy.  As a side question, are you planning on cutting this frame?  I'm sure that you could pull that off, but it's definitely not introductory timber framing.  A lot of times you can get away with square or mill ruling all the rectilinear framing, and then scribe the crazy stuff in.  Although Jordan used English tying joints, which are almost always scribed.

Jim has the technically correct answer, but the short answer is that you can probably go 24 - 28' (actually, you can do just about anything, it's just not a very good idea sometimes).  There's no second floor load in that frame, so that really makes things easier. 

There are bunch of ways to bring post bottoms to slabs, including what they did, Timberlinx, ugly Simpson brackets, less ugly hidden Simpson brackets, conventional expansion bolts, threaded rod and epoxy, and more. 

It's worth pointing out that most architects wouldn't even know where to start with superimposing a historic timber frame into a design, nevermind pulling out a fairly obscure British slingbrace form.  They are out there, but there's not too many.  If you have an architect already, they could probably work with a specialty timber frame engineer or the actual framer to hash things out.  Mechanicals and timber frames take a lot of planning and forethought.  Let me know if you don't have an architect and I can try to point you in the right direction.

Brad
www.uncarvedblockinc.com
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