iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Clearing with an excavator.

Started by LeeB, May 15, 2014, 05:49:51 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

LeeB

I need to clear some land to make more pasture. As with quite a bit of the land in my area, it is mostly hillside and fairly steap in places. There is also enough shelf rock that the dozer guys don't want to get on it for a justified fear of sliding. It has been recomended that I get someone to come in with an excavator. Any opinions on this? I have a D$ of my own, but I just don't seem to have much luck pushing trees with it. Probably has a lot to do with the operator. I'm als not to confident in my skills to be running it on the slopes.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

BBK

We use track excavators on a regular basis to clear hillsides and tight access areas. With a decent operator and the right sized machine it does a great job.
I love Farming, Logging, Sawmilling, Fishing, and Hunting.

thenorthman

If your looking to pull the stumps while clearing then hiring an excavator is the way to go.  If not then hand falling and a cable skidder might do ya, or cable dozer depending on how steep it is.
well that didn't work

Neilo

Most D4s don't have tree pushers and aren't great for pushing trees of a decent size. A reasonable size excavator will push a lot more. Cost for excavator clearing is generally more than with a dozer but can give a neater result too.

barbender

An excavator, and the D4 with a root rake would do the nicest job. Does your D4 have a 6 way blade? If it does you should be able to tilt it and cut the roots, and then push the tree over. If I had the D4 I would probably just use that.
Too many irons in the fire

LeeB

My D4 has a 6 way blade, but baby needs new shoes. The tracks are a little worn and it just spins on anything over about 6 inches or so. I also have a lot of hickories and they seem to have as much taproot as they do stem. No winch on it. Not sure how much it would cost to fit it with one. No root rake either. Did I mention the steep hills, shelf rock, and lack of experiance on my part? I have thought about cobbling together a tree pusher to put on the front of it. Actually the worn shoes is another question I was going to ask about. Has anybody changed shoes and managed to save the bolts, or should I figure on cutting them and going new?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

landscraper

You could just weld grouser bar on the cleats if you had time on your hands.  Other wise you can save some portion of the bolts, but not 100%.  Also the wear on the heads will determine how re-usable they are.  The bolts aren't the driving cost of the expense anyway, but a penny saved.... Use a compressor that will keep up with a big impact or else you will be at it all day.  The couple of times I swapped pads I used a tow behind compressor and a 3/4" impact....and a torch.
Firewood is energy independence on a personal scale.

coxy

I saved the bolts one time and never never again will I be so cheap ill spend the extra money the time it took to save the bolts I could have had the new ones in a been making money  just my 10 cents  ;D ;D ;D

barbender

I shouldn't advise too much without seeing your terrain.
Too many irons in the fire

LeeB

Your advice is welcome and I will apply it to my situation if it fits. Sharing of ideas is always a good thing. What doesn't aply today may be pertinant tomorrow.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Buck

I've done the grouser mod and was very satisfied.  If I was to try and save the bolts it would only be a situation where I absolutely had to.
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

Live....like someone left the gate open

Southside

Not speaking to the equipment, but your idea of grubbing the ground will likely result in poor pasture.  Given what you describe for soil and conditions you are going to loose a lot of your top soil to erosion and stumping along with all the nutrients.  Are there any guys with mulchers in your area?  You could harvest the trees and then have a mulcher go in behind you and grind the stumps level with the ground and not disturb your soil profile. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

luvmexfood

Quote from: coxy on May 15, 2014, 05:06:46 PM
I saved the bolts one time and never never again will I be so cheap ill spend the extra money the time it took to save the bolts I could have had the new ones in a been making money  just my 10 cents  ;D ;D ;D
Boy does that bring back some memories about saving bolts. Many years ago when we were farming a lot we had a two bottom plow to use. Dad would get new plow points (2) but would not buy new bolts to save a little. Then you would spend a lot of time trying to get the old ones off and then back on.

Sometimes you have to look at the time involved to try and save a little. He farmed around 168 acres plus worked a full-time job with the RR and took all the OT he could get.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

OneWithWood

If the pros are reluctant to operate on your slopes you need to do yourself a favor and stay off the slopes with a dozer yourself.  You only need to do the 10ton toboggan slide one time to understand why - that is if you don't flip and die.
Southside Logger has a very good point.  It would be worth the time and money to do some soil testing to determine how suitable the site is for pasture.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Ford_man

If you want to pasture it get a big herd of beavers they will clear it for you splitwood_smiley splitwood_smiley splitwood_smiley splitwood_smiley

JDeere

Quote from: LeeB on May 15, 2014, 11:58:12 AM
Actually the worn shoes is another question I was going to ask about. Has anybody changed shoes and managed to save the bolts, or should I figure on cutting them and going new?
I would never re-use bolts. When we do an undercarriage we lightly grind the underside of the pads and the top of the chains, even if they are new. The slightest bit of dirt or even paint can cause the bolts to loosen and you may never get them to stay tight again. I totally agree with Coxy.
2013 Western Star, 2012 Pelletier trailer, Serco 7500 crane, 2007 Volvo EC 140, 2009 John Deere 6115D, 2002 Cat 938G, 1997 John Deere 540G, 1996 Cat D-3C, 1995 Cat 416B, 2013 Cat 305.5E

Ed_K

OWW is right, I slide a jd 850 down a hill southwest of Witchita Falls Tx. working for an oil co. doing exploring where they set charges to check for oil reservoir's. Cap rock right into sand. That'll clean your shorts  ;D .
Ed K

LeeB

Finally got someone to come in and do some clearing for me. They are using a combination of excavator and dozer. There is a surprising amount of good soil there and it should lend well to grass.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Thank You Sponsors!