Best way to load a huge sycamore log

coppolajc10 · April 30, 2014, 09:14:37 PM

40+ inches at the base ... I'm thinking of cutting the butt log at 8-10 foot and then cutting it in half the long way, and loading the halves onto my 5-ton equipment trailer with another 8-10 foot log off the top. I would be loading with tractor, lifting capacity 3000 lbs. Any advice or other ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.

Magicman · April 30, 2014, 09:33:41 PM

You have not updated your profile with your TimberKing information, but I am assuming that you will saw the Sycamore on it.

Will the TK handle a 20"X40" log half or will you have to quarter it before sawing? What lumber dimensions are you needing?

Ohio_Bill · April 30, 2014, 09:34:02 PM

If the log is 10 ft and 40 in. it is about 800 bf . So ½ of that 400 bf which will weigh less than 1800 lb. Looks like you should be good to go .

coppolajc10 · April 30, 2014, 09:50:18 PM

MM-not sure how you remembered that ???, but thanks! yes it will be cut on the B20 ... not sure on the 40" height, will have to measure and maybe quarter it with chainsaw first, either way it's going to be quartered in the end. Not sure on the dimensions yet either, I don't need any ... wanted to sell it, any advice? I know a guy locally who drools when you start talking about sycamore, so I was going to check with him first to see if he wanted anything particular ... probably 4/4 or 5/4 I would guess.

Ohio_Bill - I would've guessed that log be closer to 5000 lbs, thanks for the input!

backwoods sawyer · April 30, 2014, 09:53:43 PM

when splitting logs make another cut to give it a flat edge to stand up on. If it will be to tall make another cut with the chainsaw long the top edge. The blade need not clear the log just the throat, but give your self enough room to bump the sawhead up a 1/4 or so for the return of the sawhead.

Ohio_Bill · April 30, 2014, 10:07:13 PM

Quote from: coppolajc10 on April 30, 2014, 09:50:18 PM
MM-not sure how you remembered that ???, but thanks! yes it will be cut on the B20 ... not sure on the 40" height, will have to measure and maybe quarter it with chainsaw first, either way it's going to be quartered in the end. Not sure on the dimensions yet either, I don't need any ... wanted to sell it, any advice? I know a guy locally who drools when you start talking about sycamore, so I was going to check with him first to see if he wanted anything particular ... probably 4/4 or 5/4 I would guess.

Ohio_Bill - I would've guessed that log be closer to 5000 lbs, thanks for the input!

Down on the left hand side is a tool box icon . You can get log weight and volume from it . several neat tools .

coppolajc10 · April 30, 2014, 10:10:30 PM

backwoods-you just taught me a few things, and I really appreciate that ;D Thanks!

Ohio_Bill-thank you again.

iwiegian · April 30, 2014, 11:08:51 PM

Another question along those lines. 46 inch blade on my Belsaw and a 36 inch walnut log. Would you cut it in half or off to one side enough to get a flat side and able to cut thru to make a cant. Hope I am explaining this ok and also not high-jacking the thread. Thanks, Dave

Tom the Sawyer · May 01, 2014, 12:34:10 AM

coppolajc10,

40" above the bed is the limit of the B-20 for clearance. Maximum blade height is 27.5" so that first slab will be just over 12" high - set it off to the side to mill later. It will be a bear to turn it 180° to get the flat face on the bed. Keep in mind that when you first stand it up it will be more than twice as high as the stops and even higher than the dog can reach, you'll need to keep the turner arm up to help hold it. I've done them this big and the first few cuts are really touchy. The turner arm will require a lot of finesse and you'll need at least one helper with a cant hook keeping things going the right way.

Or, and highly recommended, if you have the ability to split it lengthwise then it should be a piece of cake to split each half again. It will be so much easier to handle, faster and much safer. In the last one I did the goal was max width 8/4 walnut planks so I didn't have much choice. We also had a skid steer with forks to get us over the humps.

backwoods sawyer · May 01, 2014, 12:58:26 AM

Like Tom says it is a big chunk of wood to work with and a helper with a piece of equipment would not be a bad idea. One advantage of milling half a log is you drop down and take chucks as deep as the throat with out having to much of an issue with the guides hanging up so in some cases you can chunk it up with out having to move it once in position giving you good options for quarter sawing as well.

And note that both of us position the cut side to the dogs.

Qweaver · May 01, 2014, 07:42:01 AM

That's why I bought a swinger. You sure lose a lot of wide lumber cutting the log in half plus it's a lot of work. But it looks like you have it well in hand.

dboyt · May 01, 2014, 07:54:25 AM

I routinely work with logs that size. My "heavy lifter" is an 8N ford, but I've never been beaten by a log. I have a pair of 10' long 6" x 6" ramps and parbuckle them up the side of the trailer with a chain saw powered winch, though a 12 V elec would also do the job. With a 30° angle on the ramps and the 2:1 advantage, a 3,000 pound log is putting less than 500 pounds of force on the winch line. Lacking hydraulics, I use the same technique to load logs onto the mill.

BBTom · May 01, 2014, 07:59:58 AM

Your local guy is probably wanting quarter sawn sycamore. Check with him, you may want to go ahead and cut that log into quarters with the chainsaw first.

DMcCoy · May 01, 2014, 08:14:32 AM

My short list when I get one of these.
Is there any outside indication of highly figured wood and how do I get it to be in the useful area of a board.
After that I have used 3 different techniques all with a chainsaw.
Halves or quatering
cutting it down on 3 sides
The worst is gun barreling - PITA but gets it reduced in size and takes off the sap wood

slider · May 01, 2014, 08:50:39 AM

You need to come down to customsawyers toward the end of may to their yearly sycamore sawing.Jake and DWH can show you how to make those ray flecks jump up and slap you.

coppolajc10 · May 01, 2014, 09:30:34 AM

thanks everyone for the info ... here's a few pictures.

Quote from: DMcCoy on May 01, 2014, 08:14:32 AM
Is there any outside indication of highly figured wood and how do I get it to be in the useful area of a board.

DMcCoy (or others), where's the best place to cut this one for what you're talking about? Thanks again all!! Learning many things with this post!

Magicman · May 01, 2014, 02:28:40 PM

I do not know how much of a clear span you have between limbs/knots, but I'm afraid that most of that lumber is gonna have a mind of it's own. :-\

coppolajc10 · May 01, 2014, 09:52:33 PM

You may be right MM ... but it will be a learning experience for me, and that alone will be worth the time. Even better, if I can get a few nice quartersawn planks out of it for my Dad's woodworking habit (and maybe a few others to sell and cover my costs), I'll be more than happy 8) ... thanks again, Jake.

Magicman · May 01, 2014, 10:11:50 PM

There will be much "project" wood there. At least your Dad will be happy. ;D

customsawyer · May 02, 2014, 01:56:47 AM

When I cut those big logs in half I rarely stand them up with the flat side against the side supports. I like to put the flat side on the clamp side of the mill. With the chain turner I can take a few boards off then turn the log backwards a little and take a few more. This lets me slowly get some of the weight off of the log and makes it less dangerous to handle. When you are trying to stand the flat side you have so much weight above your clamp and side supports that it don't take much for it to get away from you.

DMcCoy · May 02, 2014, 09:16:58 AM

I'm in agreement with Majicman on what that tree will do or yield.
First - sycamore is a tree I know nothing about.
Someone mentioned rays(like oak) so quarter-sawing would give you that and sawing into quarters may not be the best move. I would leave that discussion to someone more knowable about how to proceed it is not something I have done alot of.
I'll call it the butt log- the first segment. That big dead knot on the top just up from the butt - that is a problem, not just the knot but the wood around it, while it may be figured so to speak it is almost unworkable and unusable from a wood workers point of view. It looks like you have some buried knots on either side that might yield something interesting. It would be good to point out that I happen to like knots others do not. How you cut this and what kind of boards you like is really a matter of personal preference there is no right or wrong way, there is more and less dangerous, that is a very big tree to beef around, so be careful.
If it were mine. I would cut the butt log. Then two options, take 2 heavy chainsaw cuts off the top and bottom- enough to get it into your mill to slab, heavy knot facing sideways. Or- I would cut it vertically down the middle as it sits, and if I wanted a flat edge on those two halves I would cut that flat off the heavy knot side.

After that who knows, my experience cutting trees with that much sweep has not been good. You might find that you release built up tension, affecting the flatness of finished product.

Hope that helps,

coppolajc10 · May 02, 2014, 10:50:46 AM

Thanks again customsawyer, appreciate the info. MM and DMcCoy - With the rain today, our plans to get this log failed ... don't know if we'll have a day to get there, owner wants it gone and there's a guy who wants to make firewood out of it (why? I've no idea). Anyway, you guys have discouraged me enough to probably not make the effort to get there before it's firewood, and I'm not trying to say you guys ruined anything ... I don't know half what you guys know, so my ears aren't deaf ;D. Well, at the very least I learned a few things and maybe people reading did too ... thanks again everyone for the advice!!

backwoods sawyer · May 02, 2014, 10:58:49 AM

Custom sawyer one of the main reasons for putting the flat side to the dogs and the curved side to the curve of the turner is that it will rotate right up into position and stay there. To repostion reverse rotate (cut line is above the stops).
With the flat side to the turner and the round side to the dogs I have had then want slide around and wobble to the point one almost went over the back side. Just less control of the half while positioning unless loading with another piece of equipment and just clamping in position.

If you can get with the firewood cutter and mark off the log you want and let him get started if all goes well you would have a log cut free from the tree when you are ready for it.

LeeB · May 02, 2014, 11:35:08 AM

Sycamore can be some pretty finicky stuff to cut and can have a mind of it's own. I does make real pretty wood when quarter sawn. Personnaly, I would let the firewood guy have that one and wait for a log with a few less knots/limbs on it. The more knots it has the more it will misbehave when it dries.