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Used LT40 Pictures...should I buy?

Started by Paschale, June 28, 2004, 10:39:10 PM

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ronwood

Fla._Deadheader

Just curious about your remote station power feed. Did you design it or buy an of the self unit?

Paschale,

I think I would buy it. My concern is how good is the engine. With the price of steel I don't think you could buy the metal for $1500 to build one.

Just my thoughts.
Ron
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

Fla._Deadheader

  Hi Ron. We designed the remote station, but, did buy the electric motor controller off ebay. That was $100.00.

  Our station runs the feed and the up-down, and the blade guide, and the clamp and log stops. We control the hydraulics from the remote station.

  We have a vacuum cleaner hose that we ran the wires through to power the controls. It drags the ground as we saw, but, sawdust cushions the grass and we can shovel and rake the grass and you will not see any damage.

  I would definitely put this on the mill Paschale is looking at.

  Since the price increases, you will never buy the steel to build that same mill, for the price he can buy the whole mill.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

D._Frederick

About the sand blasting, I would agree that sand can work into the bearings. It has the same effect as pressure washing with 3000 psi, it fills every thing up.

I guess if I bought it, I would take all the sealed bearing off reguardless of how I was going to clean the rust off. The grease in them has hardened by this time and will result in the ball cages being destroyed. You just has well replace them now and save future problems.

slowzuki

You wouldn't have pic of your blade guide and how it is actuated would ya?
Ken

Quote the blade guide,

sawinmontana

We have a manual push mill, ground level, that we bought new for around $4500.  I really like to saw lumber. But not on our mill for the reason Fla_d said.  

Why don't you bring that woodmiser up here to Montana I
'll give you $1500 for it and throw in a used push mill!!! Ha, Ha, just a thought.

If you do want to saw more than an occasional board and value your back buy the wood miser!!

Fla._Deadheader

Slow, here is the only pic I can find. I know I have better ones. This is a wiper motor-gearbox that I bought from Surplus Center for $40.00. I cut the shaft and drilled it for a roll pin. I cut a skateboard wheel down, so the hub is engaged by the roll pin to turn it. It is a simple permanent magnet 12V DC motor. A double pole double throw momentary switch, cross wired, is all it takes to go in or out. The arm is solid 1" square steel. I machined the guide arm wheels on my lathe and pressed ball bearings into the hub.


All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Haytrader

 ::)

If one does not like to bend over to saw with thier mill on the ground, one could simply block it up to the desired height.

 ;D
Haytrader

slowzuki

FD, do you find the 1" stiff enough?  Do you have stops to prevent running off the end?

Thanks!  I've hit this area in my planning.  I ordered Cooks guides instead of making my own, I'm sure I could do a good job but I want it to work asap!

Ken

KILROY


 Is that sawmill in your driveway yet? If not why not?
 If you need to, will your uncle let you make payments on it? That might free up some cash to get it running.
 
 I had an 1986 LT30 very similar to that saw. The one in the picture is just a little older. If you buy the saw, try to get everything that came with it. Is there a sharpener with it? Back then most saws were sold with sharpeners. If there is a winch on it, see if the turner is there also. Is the handle for the cutting head around? It was used if the motor went out, you could still saw by cranking the cutting head up or down.  You will need the bar to raise and lower the jacks. The two metal ramps to roll the log on should be there also.
 
 There is not very much that can go wrong with that saw. All of the bearings are replacable. Normal maintenance. Toss that motor if it does not work and get a different one or go electric. The only rust that you need to be concerned with to saw is where the cutting head slides up and down. Clean that area up or it will ruin the pads. Even they are replacable. I think the new ones are a plastic. The rest of the rust will wear off from use, unless you want to paint it then clean it up better.  The chains are probably a little stiff so soak them or replace. From your pictures I can not tell for sure but I think the double chain is still on that saw. That lever under the drive motor is an overdrive when the cutting head is going backwards. Just raise it up when going back. The two center log supports flip down, you might want to weld them stationary.  
 Do a few minor repairs to that saw  and you will be cutting fairly quickly.  After it is cleaned up you can always sell it.
Just to get it sawing again should not cost very much money.
 Good luck.

Fla._Deadheader

   ::) ::) Trader  ::) ::)  I'm trying to get him started out right  ;D :D :D :D

  Kilroy's advice is egg zacktly what I would do, but, I like add-ons. ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D

  My offer is still good  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

sawinmontana

If one blocks the mill up then one needs a ladder to reach the sawhead raising crank.

Fla._Deadheader

 ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ::) ::) ::) ::) :) :) :) :) :)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

KILROY


 Paschale, after you get your new saw, an upgrade that needs to be done is the blade tensioner. Take the spring assembly off and replace it with the hydraulic tensioner. It is not something that needs to be done right away, but it is a better system. I think that saw takes a narrow battery. You might want to reconfigure the battery box if there is room.
 An older saw like this would be good to mount the resaw attachment to for a portable resaw.
 That saw is best run with two people. When sawing by yourself , you will do a lot of walking around it.
 Then again, take your saw on a vacation to florida and swing by Fla_D's  sawmill refurbishing business. There is no telling what you might come home with. ::) ;D ;D

Fla._Deadheader

Slow, our blade guide moves a LOT farther than a WM. I don't have a problem that the guide moves a little when it travels in and out. 1" should be fine. Keeping it running true is where your problems might arise. I don't sweat the small stuff.

  All the way out, it hits the back cover of the idler wheel. All the way in, it runs off one bearing and the pressure to the drive wheel is lost. There was some "intricate" designing going on when we built the movable guide.  ;D ;D ;D  Took about 15 minutes.  :D :D :D :D :D :D

  Like Tom keeps saying, "A sawmill is used to take a log apart. It is NOT a Planer".  ;D ;D :D :D :D :) :)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Haytrader

sawinmontana,

One might consider putting a pulley (for the cable to ride in) on the corner of ones mill frame and moving the winch (crank) down where one could reach it.

 ;)  

This shows how my winch is mounted.
Haytrader

Furby

Paschale,
If you are thinking about looking around a little, then drop me an IM and we will set something up so you can play with mine and have a chat. I'm about 10 mins. from you.
I have a box of blades that should be here by Monday.
My mill is an oldie, but it will give you an idea of what's what.


C_Miller

If'n it was me I'd get it and roll it to the nearest WM shop.

    Fixing it up is not as bad as restoring a Model T F.O.R.D.
  set of open end wrenches, crescent hammer and a couple of screw drivers is all you need. If you're good all you need is a Leatherman Multi-tool. so don't let that stop you.

    As far as cosmetic  paint job, wire brush and a can of that British primer that mixes with the rust is a good start then your favorite color after that.

  ....and to loosen all the rusty won't move parts "Rust Reaper".
I put a little RR on my Cheerios and I don't have any problems moving all day.

C
CJM

handsaw07

Paschale,  I wouldn't  hesitate a moment to purchase that mill. I believe you have found a good deal on a mill.  Goodluck

slowzuki

I like that quote! I think I'll remember while I'm working on mine ;D

Ken

Quote Like Tom keeps saying, "A sawmill is used to take a log apart. It is NOT a Planer".  ;D ;D :D :D :D :) :)

Paschale

Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies!  Sorry it's been awhile since I wrote back, but I was in Colorado for a little over a week--a sort of working vacation, with as much vacation as I could squeeze in!  It gave me plenty of time to think some more about the sawmill, and yes, I decided to buy it, and I'm completely stoked about it!  My dad and I are planning a trip to the U.P. to retrieve it later this summer, when we can get our schedule to work out.  First thing is to get it in my dad's barn, and out of the elements!

I really appreciate all of the suggestions about repairing it, as well as upgrade suggestions.  I know I'll be tapping into the brain trust of the forestry forum as soon as I can get my hands dirty working on this thing.  All of your comments have encouraged me that this was definitely a good purchase, and a very redeemable project.  I think my dad's as equally stoked too, so it should be a fun project to do with him.  I'll be sure to keep you all posted on repair developments, and thanks again!

Hmm...it just dawned on me:  I got myself a woodmizer!   8) 8) 8) 8)   Giddy up!!!! :) :) :) :)

Dan M.
Y'all can pronounce it "puh-SKOLLY"

Bibbyman

Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Bibbyman

Hey Pascbale,   

It's getting late in the summer, what's the update on the mill?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Furby

He's been to busy seeing the world to mess with that little old mill! :o :D :D

Paschale

Hey there Bibbyman,

Thanks for the message and question.  Furby's right...I've had a busy summer, but fun as all get out.  I hadn't really planned on having a summer like this, and I gotta admit, the WM took the backseat.  I started out in Thailand, then headed to Colorado, followed by a trip to the U.P.  I was home for a couple of weeks, then spent a few weeks in Santa Cruz, followed up by hiking in Yosemite.  Came home, and left for northern Michigan for a few days, and now I'm finally back down where I belong.  All in all, I think I've been gone about seven weeks this summer, and it's been GREAT!   8)  I ate my way across the world, too...so now it's diet time.   ::)  I'm hoping to be able to work on the WM early this fall.  It's been draggin' way too long.  But I came home to a bunch of projects that need my attention here at home, which is really a drag.  I'll get it done though...eventually.   ::)
Y'all can pronounce it "puh-SKOLLY"

sparks

Don't forget to call in and get a customer number set up. I doubt there is a serial number on the mill but give us what info you have and we'll try to find it in our system and transfer the mill into your name. If you call me I can take care of it for you. Let me know what year it is and I can get you the manuals for the mill.    Thanks and welcome to the Wood-Mizer family.
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

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