Used Husqvarna 372xp

[husky55guy]

I am looking to possibly buy a 372 xp used from a guy who fixes and sells chainsaws for a living. He told me he sells around 300 a year out of his shop and repairs for a living. He is asking $450 for the 372xp with a brand new 20" forester bar and chain. I've read through this forum and I don't see many complaints about the 372. Brand new this runs a minimum of $760 so I'm just looking for opinions on $450 for this saw. Thanks!

[JohnG28]

If he's reputable and the saw has a fresh rebuild then it might be worth 450, probably high end though. New b/c are worth some. Find out if it was rebuilt with aftermarket or oem parts, and if aftermarket what brand. Also what was done to it in general. Those factors will make a difference in price IMO.

[SawTroll]

Make sure that the new top end is OEM (not aftermarket), and that he found and fixed the reason that the original failed.

[7sleeper]

Make sure that the new top end is OEM (not aftermarket), and that he found and fixed the reason that the original failed.

Original OEM Topend rebuilt saw for 450$!? Highly unlikely! But if you are a firewooder, which I presume since a pro would simply buy the next best pro saw, a good quality AM top end will last quite some time. Probably longer than your needs, because large saws are not used often. So wear and tear is rather low.

But to be honest I would seriously think about a 365xp for around 2 bills more. With a little modification you have a brand new 372xp!

7

[Spike60]

The original post doesn't mention anything about a new top end, OEM or otherwise. It just says it's a used saw. Only thing listed as new is the bar and chain.

The price is a bit high IMO, but some areas are different than others. That price might be why guys assumed it had a new top end, and if it was in fact an OEM top end, then maybe that price would be OK.

As far as AM top ends go, the more I study them, the more I feel it best to stay away from them. (the asian stuff). AM pistons in the original cylinder make more sense and cost way less.

[husky55guy]

Thanks for the info everyone! Saw is gone but the guy has 2 more he said. I never knew what OEM and AM were until this thread. My guess is OEM is a cheap company over seas and AM is American Made? Correct me if I am wrong.
I'll be sure to ask him questions that were brought to my attention in this thread!

[Dave Shepard]

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer, which means the parts came from Husky. AM is aftermarket, parts made by anybody but Husky.

[theNooch]

Like many things in life, used saw prices are going to be dependent on supply and demand. I am presently living near Roseburg, OR, where chainsaws are like cellphones in Manhattan. I recently picked up a used 372xp for $350. The 372xp is probably one of the most popular felling saws out here (the 660 is also big) and mine had a 32" b&c which I had the seller swap out for a 24", as I am using the saw for firewood. I see 372xp's going from $400-$550 on the Craigslist in this area, and I feel I got a great deal on a nice tool.

My saw, a 2011 XT model, was used by a logger and had a few issues; missing the screw and spacer for the brake handle, the top cover spacers needed filing to make the cover bolt down solid, and it was generally just plain dirty. I also put a new Stihl full comp chain on it as the old one only made it through five cords before losing some teeth. Oh, I also had to have our welder TIG the full wrap handle as it had worn through on the bottom. (that cost a bottle of rum) If you look real close at the cylinder head you can see some green paint, as the saw was painted green in it's past life.  >:(

All in all, I am real happy with the saw and I am going to get her a new bar soon as the nose on the old one is a little loose. It is an addition to my 142e which put up over 23 cords all by itself this past winter. That little Lowe's saw ($189 in 2006) has been nothing but a work horse and never needed more than a new plug and some new starter rope.

I would rather buy a saw from a logging company that I know has had nothing but good mix-oil, and non-ethanol fuel, run through it even though it has worked a lot in it's three years of service. Logger's tend to take care of their tools as they are what puts the food on the table.

[beenthere]

theNooch
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Nice fix on the saw, good on posting a pic, and the view out your front yard is spectacular. 

[theNooch]

theNooch
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Nice fix on the saw, good on posting a pic, and the view out your front yard is spectacular. 

Hey thanks...Yes, the admins here have made posting pics just about as difficult as I have ever encountered on the internets, but I have determination!

Here's another pic to show that you don't need a long bar to fall a large tree (although it can be both safer and easier). This specimen is over 6ft DBH and was nearly 200ft tall. I am over 6'5" with my White's Smoke Jumpers on.

A good used 372xp can do just about anything...



That's my working companion in the shot...theMoses.

[beenthere]

Good on the big tree.
After my experience dropping a tree this morning, I'd sure not go without a hard hat. Bonked on the head with a fair size limb that would have made a serious dent with no hardhat. Came out of nowhere without a sound until it hit a good lick.

Same with the chaps...  just sayin....

As far as pics, we don't have any red X's that show up when offsite pics are no longer available for one reason or another. This site really has a good system, just as you say, not as simple as other sites.

Look forward to more of your experiences, like what are you going to do with that big tree now that it is down.. ??

[HolmenTree]

All in all, I am real happy with the saw and I am going to get her a new bar soon as the nose on the old one is a little loose.

Welcome to FF the Nooch.
I couldn't help but notice the small radius Oregon Double Guard tip on your bar. Oregon quit making those tips in the PowerMatch design years ago. Now only make them in little laminated bars for consumers.
When I was a faller the forestry company I worked for made company policy only those tips were to be used on our saws for safety reasons. Very smooth cutting low kickback bar nose, You can bore cut with them straight on into the tree with no vibration or kickback what so ever and still cut as fast as the full size tips.
I only have about 6 of these tips left in both 3/8 and .325, very hard to find today .Don't throw yours away I can rebuild it with new bearings.
Here's a pic of my 576XP AT with this bar nose I loan out in a powersaw contest I organize every winter.


 

[theNooch]

Good on the big tree.
After my experience dropping a tree this morning, I'd sure not go without a hard hat. Bonked on the head with a fair size limb that would have made a serious dent with no hardhat. Came out of nowhere without a sound until it hit a good lick.

Same with the chaps...  just sayin....

I'm not much on safety gear...in fact, I worked for a tree outfit in Colorado back in '07 removing beetle kill pines and must have ruined 6 pair of jeans that summer. I even cut through a nice pair of Sorel pack boots when there was snow on the ground...never broke any skin. In fact, I only have one eye, and can't stand wearing safety glasses as they all seem to fog up, even the nice vented ones.

Look forward to more of your experiences, like what are you going to do with that big tree now that it is down.. ??

That huge fir is in a BLM park. It was cut because of the rot and hollow center, I just happened to know the guy doing the work and got in on the fall. It will just rot in place, as that is their policy. 

Here is another shot of a really bad idea that almost ended badly...



...never tie your log skidder (my f250) to a downhill log that weighs more than your truck on a 45% grade. This one nearly pulled me and the truck over the hill. TheMoses was outside my rig just scratching his head.

[theNooch]

I couldn't help but notice the small radius Oregon Double Guard tip on your bar. Oregon quit making those tips in the PowerMatch design years ago. Now only make them in little laminated bars for consumers.
When I was a faller the forestry company I worked for made company policy only those tips were to be used on our saws for safety reasons. Very smooth cutting low kickback bar nose, You can bore cut with them straight on into the tree with no vibration or kickback what so ever and still cut as fast as the full size tips.
I only have about 6 of these tips left in both 3/8 and .325, very hard to find today .Don't throw yours away I can rebuild it with new bearings.

Now that we have officially jacked this thread...

Interesting...is there any way for me to tighten it up in that bar? I mean, it moves about 1/8" up and down when there is no chain on the bar. That is the only reason I was considering a new bar, and then I looked at the prices on Bailey's and thought, it can work a little longer.

I do enjoy a nice bore cut, and in fact, got her stuck the other day dropping a live Madrone that was growing at a 45 degree angle before I was even through my bottom cut. Madrone, when wet, is some really heavy wood (6000lbs a cord wet). The 142e had to save the big saw. In fact, when splitting green Madrone with a maul, water will often shoot up and get in your eyes! It's a truly weird wood that can NOT be split by hand when it dries...it's like hitting concrete.

[mmartone]

I have an old ugly one but its a great saw with a little porting and 32" full skip. There was a real nice 372xp with a 32 or so bar on it last week for $500, let me know if I need to go back for ya.. Managers a friend and I can probably get a few $ off.

[HolmenTree]

I couldn't help but notice the small radius Oregon Double Guard tip on your bar. Oregon quit making those tips in the PowerMatch design years ago. Now only make them in little laminated bars for consumers.

Now that we have officially jacked this thread...

Interesting...is there any way for me to tighten it up in that bar? I mean, it moves about 1/8" up and down when there is no chain on the bar. That is the only reason I was considering a new bar, and then I looked at the prices on Bailey's and thought, it can work a little longer.

Nooch, kinda hard to hijack a chainsaw thread about chainsaws on a chainsaw forum. :D
Your bar nose was probably changed at one time and the person probably installed the single rivet the wrong way. You will notice a X stamped on one side of the tip, that X has to be up when driving out the old rivet with a punch.
About all you can do is lay the bar on an anvil and hammer the rivet until it may tighten up. Only new rivets come with a new tip unless a dealer or somebody has a few spares.

[huxpat]

    A local chainsaw guy my woodshop partner has worked with some down here in southern Mexico has a 372xp and I was fairly impressed with its performance on huge guanacastle trees (some places also call it parota and they drop the 'l' in Central America to guanacaste). He's running a 32" bar on it. Guanacastle is a slabbing favorite for its enormous width and nice natural edge contrast. One of those teak-like woods in that it's hard but not dense so really not that bad to cut. The sawdust is a toxic nightmare though, have to wear a respirator working with it. I was going to get an old Husky 2100 for milling from Washington on Ebay and figure a way of getting it down here from the border, but stumbled across what was an unbelievable deal on a 372xp on the Mexican Ebay, mercadolibre. I'll believe it for real if the saw shows up at my door later this week. Saws, mainly Stihl available, tend to be a lot more expensive here than in the States. But this guy out of Acapulco is offering brand new Stihl MS360's and Husky 372XP's for 4000 pesos each with 24" Oregon bar and chains, which is about $310. Ludicrous. Seems to have a chainsaw shop and have sold a number with good feedback, but I don't know where they came from at that price, if the cartels have been hijacking truckloads of chainsaws or what. Was a no brainer which to choose of the two for the same price. Fully aware it's a bit light duty for a milling saw, but not sure how much access to whole trees I'll ever have and a good powerful freehand general purpose saw seems more important at the moment.

[celliott]

    a good powerful freehand general purpose saw seems more important at the moment.

The 372 is every bit of that. Just awesome power for the weight.
I wouldn't mill with mine, but occasional use, rich tuning, and letting it cool down good and it should be ok.

[HolmenTree]

Huxpat welcome to the FF site. Your the first  tree guy from Mexico I've seen on a tree/chainsaw forum.
My family and I spend a few weeks most winters in Rincon De Guayabitos just a little
north of Puerto Vallarta.
I saw Husqvarna and Stihl saws in that area that were Chinese copies, maybe  those  cheap priced saws you heard  about were Chinese.

[SawTroll]

    A local chainsaw guy my woodshop partner has worked with some down here in southern Mexico has a 372xp and I was fairly impressed with its performance on huge guanacastle trees (some places also call it parota and they drop the 'l' in Central America to guanacaste). He's running a 32" bar on it. Guanacastle is a slabbing favorite for its enormous width and nice natural edge contrast. One of those teak-like woods in that it's hard but not dense so really not that bad to cut. The sawdust is a toxic nightmare though, have to wear a respirator working with it. I was going to get an old Husky 2100 for milling from Washington on Ebay and figure a way of getting it down here from the border, but stumbled across what was an unbelievable deal on a 372xp on the Mexican Ebay, mercadolibre. I'll believe it for real if the saw shows up at my door later this week. Saws, mainly Stihl available, tend to be a lot more expensive here than in the States. But this guy out of Acapulco is offering brand new Stihl MS360's and Husky 372XP's for 4000 pesos each with 24" Oregon bar and chains, which is about $310. Ludicrous. Seems to have a chainsaw shop and have sold a number with good feedback, but I don't know where they came from at that price, if the cartels have been hijacking truckloads of chainsaws or what. Was a no brainer which to choose of the two for the same price. Fully aware it's a bit light duty for a milling saw, but not sure how much access to whole trees I'll ever have and a good powerful freehand general purpose saw seems more important at the moment.

If something looks unbelievable, it likely isn't true - watch out for Chinese made copies of Husky and Stihl saws!  ;)

[7sleeper]

@huxpat,

If it turns out to be genuine then I wouldn't doubt that getting a second one and running them in tandem would be a very nice and fast way of milling! You can get double sided chainsaw bars. Further it would be much more economical instead of wasting all your money on one saw to use exclusively for milling.
Something like this.


7

[LeeB]

How do you sinc the two saws so one is not pulling some on the other?

[HolmenTree]

The way the saws are position mounted on the mill one is upright the other is up side down making them both rotate the chain in the same direction.

They don't have to be matched saws either,   I had a Stihl 066 and a 044 mounted together once on my 36" Alaskan mill and they teamed up with awesome cutting power of a combined  164 cc of displacement.

[huxpat]

@huxpat,

If it turns out to be genuine then I wouldn't doubt that getting a second one and running them in tandem would be a very nice and fast way of milling! You can get double sided chainsaw bars. Further it would be much more economical instead of wasting all your money on one saw to use exclusively for milling.
Something like this.

7

Yeah, I'd seen setups like those before and always wondered about that. Anyway, there are a lot of rules and politics and headaches in obtaining guanacastle legally here so whether I end up getting into milling, we'll see. No one does slab milling anywhere in this region, though, they just cut it into what they call "tablones" about 10-16" wide. I'm not that excited about the wood just for the dark wood interior, but big slabs with natural edges are gorgeous. Here's one I'm working on the legs for now that was cut with a 372xp.


 
  I don't know why I hadn't thought about Chinese copies, except for the fact Chinese products are hit with such heavy tariffs in Mexico due to being a trade competitor for the US market, that you don't see much Chinese knockoff stuff here. Stihl's here are primarily made in Brazil, I think. Husqvarna manufactures there as well and wonder if that's where these are from. Not sure of the Brazil quality, but I think most of the Latin American Stihl's come from Brazil. This is also quite the exception to normal pricing here, so I'll find out tomorrow just what it is I got.

[HolmenTree]

  I don't know why I hadn't thought about Chinese copies, except for the fact Chinese products are hit with such heavy tariffs in Mexico due to being a trade competitor for the US market, that you don't see much Chinese knockoff stuff here. Stihl's here are primarily made in Brazil, I think. Husqvarna manufactures there as well and wonder if that's where these are from. Not sure of the Brazil quality, but I think most of the Latin American Stihl's come from Brazil. This is also quite the exception to normal pricing here, so I'll find out tomorrow just what it is I got.

huxpat, Husqvarna Brazil still produces the 272XP and 288XP and they may be imported into Mexico, next time you're at your Husqvarna dealer ask about them.
In case you haven't seen my pics on the Stihl counterfeit thread here they are from a little restaurant in Ricon De Guayabitos.