Saw for a chainsaw mill

[Smitty316]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good saw for a chainsaw mill? I'm thinking something around 80cc's. Or maybe I should ask if there is a saw I should avoid.

Thanks, Smitty

[mad murdock]

welcome smitty316.  Are you going to mill with a homemade mill? or do you have an Alaskan or Logosol you are going to fit?  To a certain extent size of the saw depends on the size of the bar, and chain you run.  That said though, i would get as many cc's as you can afford, as if you need a smaller bar, you can always change bar length, but if you buy 80 cc's and really need 90 or 100+, you can't as easily upgrade power as you can the B/C. I started with my Husky 372XPW at 70.7 cc's, and have used my stihl 075 at 111 cc's.  I prefer the Huskyfor the milling I do, mostly dimensional, not a lot of slabbing.  What helps me get by on less cc's is using picco chain, and .050" bar.  My kerf is 1/4", and the saw really does ok with that.  I am pleased with the performance.

[Smitty316]

Thanks, I've been looking at the Alaskan, but I'll probably make one based on their design. I'm just starting to look into this, but so far the Stihl 660 or Husky models look promising. I'm hoping to find a good used one if possible, but it's risky buying from someone I don't know on Ebay.

[deerslayer]

Milling lumber requires more power than any other type of cut a chainsaw does. So get the largest saw you can if you're going to mill much. If you are just going to dabble a bit to see if you like it, then use what you already have.
I have an Alaskan mill but I rarely use it. It is very time consuming and tedious to mill wood with a saw. I cut a few slabs about every five years to use as cribbing or whatever. If you need a lot of boards you will be way ahead to find someone with a bandmill that can come cut it for you.

That said, find a used Alaskan or similar and give it a try. I often feel bad about bucking up a beautiful oak log but just don't need it for anything other than firewood...

[Andyshine77]

A Husky 395 makes a great milling saw. You want at least 90cc for a real milling saw IMHO.

[HolmenTree]

A Husky 395 makes a great milling saw. You want at least 90cc for a real milling saw IMHO.

Like Andre said the 395XP is a good fit. I'm liking it more now then my Stihl 090AV with a 36" b/c setup.
The Alaskan is all I need for the amount of milling I do, trick is have a efficient slabbing rail setup. I use 2"x4" aluminum tubing rails with screw down leveler bolts and nail down end brackets.

But check out our sponsor Bailey's and look at their LogoSol M8 mill, if I hadn't already invested in the Alaskan that's the route I'd go. 

  

  

  

[Smitty316]

Great info guys, thanks. Right now I'm still waiting on some money to come in for the cost share work I've done on the forest land I have in our Forest Stewardship Program. On the one hand it feels like a good way to reinvest this money, on the other hand it feels like an expensive toy I could live without.

I just did a timber sale, but I have several big white oaks that have since died from the drought we've been experiencing. There aren't enough to be worth getting a logger to come back in. I'm just making firewood out of them now, but I'm cutting up some beautiful saw logs. It would be nice to slab some of them up, but I'm not sure if I can justify the big expense. Any thoughts to get me off the fence?

Thanks, Smitty

[HolmenTree]

Check out our sponsor Baileys on this site. You can buy a standard Alaskan Chainsaw mill [like mine in my previous post] for under $200.
When I started out years ago with it I used a "2x10"x 10 ft plank reinforced with angle iron and short angle iron end pieces for mounting brackets.
As I made some money with my lumber I invested in some aluminum rails and a bigger saw.

Whar size of saw do you already have?

[Smitty316]

I'm using a 290 Stihl with a 20" bar.

[HolmenTree]

I'm using a 290 Stihl with a 20" bar.

Keep the 290 for general work and get a decent size saw for the Alaskan mill with at least 70cc if your not in a rush and don't plan to mill a lot.

[Smitty316]

I've been watching 066/660 Stihl's and 390/395 Huskies on Ebay, but I'm not sure I want to buy a used saw from there. Also, most of the saws I've seen are around $800.00+. I can buy a new 660 for just under $1000.00 from my local dealer. At 57 I can only hope I'd be able to use it for enough years to get my money's worth out of it.

[HolmenTree]

Your not too old to worry about getting your monies worth.  :D
As you mentioned earlier about that program your involved with and you have standing white oak and other available timber, invest in a new saw and the Alaskan mill from Bailey's.
You could probably do this for not much more then $1000, not alot for what you're getting and the work you can get out of the outfit.
Buy from your best local dealer,  I suggest a Husky 390XP or a Stihl MS660. 395XP is a little too big if you decide to do cutting other then milling.

[Smitty316]

Yeah, that's what I wanted to hear. When I have cash in hand I'll talk with my dealer and see what I can come up with.

I have a well equipped shop so I think I'll try to make a mill based on the Alaskan design.

The Forest Stewardship Program is a program we have here in Missouri to encourage good forest management. The cost share programs pays for Timber Stand Improvement work. It's similar to many of the farm programs.

Thanks again,

Smitty

[mad murdock]

Smitty, I was just about to ask where you were located.  You just did.  If you are mechanically inclined, don't write off a good used saw from your local area.  You can see if the dealer has any used saws, look in his dead pile, sometimes you can find a larger saw that is worth fixing up fo rnot too much money in parts.  There are a lot of good saws out there.  If you find an older saw, and since you are going to mill anyway, if it is on the heavy side, it won't matter much. Can't go wrong with a new saw either, the 390 is a good one.  Just food for thought, if you arent afraid of looking into a used saw, and have the tools/patience to fix it yourself.  BTW- not to start a new oil war, but if you are going to be milling, I run 32:1 on my saws, and have not had issues with saws getting over hot, or rubbing the piston/cylinders raw.  Milling is harder on a saw than firewooding, just keep your chain sharp, and tuned up proper, your bar rails dressed and parallel, and after a cut, let the saw idle for a minute or so to cool off rather than just shutting it off right a way, and you will get better use out of your saw, new or used, with a lot less issues.  The other thing you will want to do regularly, is have compressed air available, and take the bar/chain off, and the top cover, and blow the saw out good at least every few days.  This will help it run better too, and cooler.  When milling the sawdust is a lot finer than the nice big chips a chain throws off during normal cutting across the grain, so you will find the dust will get everywhere.  If you aer building yourself, a mini-mill style attachment is a good time saver to put on another saw, for edging, it will really speed things up for you when you get to milling.  Plus the work is shared with more than one saw, and your saws will last longer too, Just a few tips that have worked well for me, anyways,  good luck with it.

[Smitty316]

I'm going to keep looking at used saws, and I don't mind working on them if I have to, but I don't want to spend $600.00 or $700.00 and then end up needing to do a bunch of work on it right away.

This is interesting about using a 32:1 oil mix. I never heard of anyone doing that, but it makes sense. My only concern would be about carbon build up. Is that ever and issue from this? I guess you could tell by looking at the plug.

Also, at what length bar do you need and extra oiler?

Thanks, smitty

[mad murdock]

I have never had a problem with carbon build up, use a decent grade of spark plug, and it should burn fine. I have never spent more tha 20 bucks on a used saw, then maybe 20-40 bucks to fix it up, unless a bar or chain or both were required. Then maybe more.  Several of my saws were freebies, including the 075 stihl I have.

[Coast Steve]

Hi Smitty,

Local professional fallers are the best bet I've found for chainsaws.

I put an add in the local Craigslist "Attn all loggers and Fallers, looking for chainsaw"
I got about 5 replies.

Those guys seem to change their saws every couple of years with new ones,
and usually have a couple old 660's or something like it lying around.

I picked up a well used Stihl 660 for $250 a while back from a local faller that works for one of the local logging companies.

They have a hard life with those boys running them 6 hours a day but the price is usually pretty good.
The usually have bars too.

Plus all the pro guys here make up their own chains for cheaper.

(greenhorn chainsaw guys like me still get my chains from a box)
but that could change soon :-\

From what I tried, Up to 36" dia logs a 660 worked out well, over that size it still milled it... but didn't like it and got a little hot.


Here's my setup:

Steve

[TessiersFarm]

I agree with the Husky 395 range saws, I tried a 372, and was sadly disappointed.  I had an old Stihl 056 that did a pretty good job, dealer told me the 372 would compare, it didn't.  I since bought a Husky 394 and it is a pretty good saw.  I paid $200 for it from a professional logger.  It had some hours on it but had been well maintained and has been great for me.  Mud season is a good time to buy a saw the loggers don't need. 

[LeeB]

Look in the for sale board. There is a reasonably priced used 394XP for sale right now.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,74051.msg1121802.html#msg1121802

[Coast Steve]

Nice 090 Holmen Tree!
Not many of those around as I'm sure you know.

I have one here.. and it runs like a top.

I'm going to sell mine now though.

[stihlguy2]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good saw for a chainsaw mill? I'm thinking something around 80cc's. Or maybe I should ask if there is a saw I should avoid.

Thanks, Smitty
STIHL 090 Chainsaw - huge power 137cc - $1250 (owego, ny)

image 1image 2image 3


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This is the largest chainsaw STIHL has ever made. Model 090, is 137cc, and is a favorite for portable saw mill applications. This unit has a very strong engine, 150psi compression, runs and idles well. Comes with a 60" double end bar and chain with 48" of cut area, and also a 30" bar and 2 30" chains for that.

Also includes parts, service , and owners manuals.

Questions please call
Joe Signs Power Equipment LLC
607-689-0330
do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers
post id: 4385054701 posted: 9 days ago email to friend ♥ best of [?]

[HolmenTree]

Nice 090 Holmen Tree!
Not many of those around as I'm sure you know.

I have one here.. and it runs like a top.

I'm going to sell mine now though.

Thanks Steve, I may sell my 090 one day too. Its restored with new factory covers and alot of other new parts. Never had the cylinder off  though and still has massive compression. .I bought it new about 20 yrs ago and took good care of it.


 
About 8 yrs ago I had a 3 month contract with the local paper mill cutting cull paper rolls. I charged $100 an hr and the 090 paid for it's self many times over and over again. Not every day an opportunity like that comes around.

[Coast Steve]

Wow, you crazy man.
A nice little gig I must say.
It just looks wrong somehow though. Did it cut ok? I bet it was slower than a wood log eh?


Here's the 090 I'm selling, with... "my fleet"

[HolmenTree]

Very nice Steve, your 090 looks mint. The new 42" [?] factory bar will bring the saw's value up even higher. My 1st 090 I bought new in the early 1980s had that same anti vibe handle setup.
I like your long  Alaskan on your 880, perfect for milling oversize fir and red cedar.

The closest cedar I milled with mine was 48" diameter red cedar hydro poles. Still made nice fresh smelling cedar lumber. I have a 60" General bar for my 090, only used it for cutting the paper rolls.
Yes those rolls were tough cutting alright, cement bag quality paper and tough as heck to cut. There's a mile of paper in those 54" diameter by 12 ft long rolls weighing as much as my diesel pickup.
The only chain that could handle the 5 minute at WOT cut was a Stihl .404 harvester chain. We cut as many as 42 in a 12 hr day.
The paper mill eventually bought a hydraulic guillateen  knife cutter in the excess of $35,000 to do the job. The purpose was to cut the cull rolls in half in order to fit them back into the re-pulper.

[Coast Steve]

I guess you had to go easy on the chain bar oil as to not mark the paper with oil.

Yes I thought about selling it with the 44" bar but shipping could be a bit crazy from BC with a long bar.

Anyway I put in on E-bay for $800 ..no bar, see what happens.

I would sell it privately though if any interest was there.