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[jargo432]

 

  I had a tree that I REALLY needed to make it fall exactly where I wanted so...

[jargo432]

Ok I'm an Idiot,  I've got the picture in my gallery but I can't figure out how to put it in a post.

[thecfarm]

This will do it.

I like to go to whatever post or start a new topic first to include a picture.Go to your gallery,it will open in a new window.Click onto your album,then click onto whatever picture you want,it will get bigger,than scroll down a little to find,Insert Image In Post,click onto that,click Yes and that is it. Some have to copy/paste the link to work.I like to hit the enter key at least once or twice to move the picture down away from what I am typing. The enter key really helps to leave some white space if posting more than one picture. Somewheres I think it says to add 10,000 to your user number or something like that to make a clickable icon to your gallery under your user name. Use the preview button to see how it looks and modify it if needed.

[jargo432]

I DID IT I DID IT.  AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!

[stumper]

OK if it realy realy needs to go where you want it, open your notch up so that it will fall all the way to the ground without closing up.  You also start loosing hinge and positive control once you pass half way.

[cutter88]

OK if it realy realy needs to go where you want it, open your notch up so that it will fall all the way to the ground without closing up.  You also start loosing hinge and positive control once you pass half way.

agreed 100% also notch does not need to be that deep

just my thoughts

[Dave Shepard]

Notch is usually about 1/3 of diameter. I usually consider all trees to really have to go where they are supposed to. :D If there is a concern of it going over backwards, then backup your cut with wedges, and make sure you don't cut your hinge off.

[r.man]

I think if you are cutting a tree down and it doesn't have to go anywhere but down then you are a beaver. And sometimes a squished beaver.

[isawlogs]

 Now I don't want you to take this as critisisum,  ;)
   The notch you have in that tree is very dangerous, for one, it is past center of tree, you have very little wood left to cut before the hinge.  You would of been much safer to make a shallower notch, 1\3 of dia. of tree,doing a back cut put a wedge or two to help you with putting that tree exactly where you wanted it then continuing your cut to your hinge.  ;)

[OntarioAl]

isawlogs x2
Very good explanation of safe felling technique.
Al

[jargo432]

I sure wish I could hang out with you guys for a day.

Here's a little history of why I cut this one like I did.

I had a tree that I was felling (hope I said that right) with my family at a safe distance and I did it by the book.  I had watched loads of videos.  The tree looked like it was straight up with no lean in any direction.  I cut my wedge 1/3 like everybody says, then did the back cut and the tree leaned back and I barely got my saw out before it grabbed it.  It took me a long time to get that tree down, and I won't admit how I did it.  So the next time I had a tree that was straight up I went a little overboard.  (at least it didn't fall backward)

I guess the question I should be asking is how do you make a tree that doesn't have any lean fall in the direction you want with only a wedge that's 1/3 into the tree?

[thecfarm]

I think it is called a notch,not a wedge,but that is fine. I use those plastic wedges and an axe. Some use a hammer,stick of wood works. Just little hits,don't have to whale on 'em.Make your notch,this will tell which way the tree is too fall.Start on the back cut,put a wedge in,tap it,cut some more,tap some more,cut some,tap some more. Sometimes I have to stop cutting,need that hinge,so it will go the way you want it to go.Than I just tap the wedge or sometimes wedges in. If using 2 side by side tap one than the other and so on. Don't rush it,just keep tapping. With the saw off,you should hear it popping and cracking. It's a good idea to put a wedge in just about every tree. Only takes a few minutes to put in and tap it in. Saves alot of time,if you misjudge the tree. As I said,take your time!!! If it takes you a few more minutes to cut the tree,so what. Make sure your back cut is about an 2 inches higher than your notch,your first cut. Plan your escape route,should be 45° angle Clear any brush,branches away from your escape route, Got safety stuff,chaps,hard hat,glasses,steel toe boots??
Every tree is differant too. Maybe limbed heavy on one side. Some will fall over real easy,some you maybe pounding wedges for a few minutes.

[Ianab]

When you tap a wedge into the backcut, effectively you are lifting that side of the tree. The hinge is still holding the front side down. So the tree has to start tipping in the direction you want. It's even possible to fell a tree 180° away from it's natural lean (within reason).

Like thecfarm has said, insert your first wedge as soon as you have the space behind the saw bar. Reason for this is in case you have misjudged the lean, and the tree settles back and pinches the bar. If you have a wedge already in place, you can just give it some gentle persuasion to free the saw, then keep tapping until the tree tips over.

You can use several wedges to tip larger trees, just line them up and tap each one in sequence to gradually drive them all in and lift the cut open. If you need more lift you can stack two wedges.

The "hinge" is the critical part. That is what controls the tree's fall. The exact dimensions of the scarf isn't so important.


When you are done, the stump should look a bit like this.


And that's not one of the kids hands, it's 11 growth rings in a 20" dia log....  ;D

Ian

[jargo432]

Thanks

I never knew the wedges were so effective.  I'll buy a few before I fall my next tree.

Thanks again

Ian, Man that is a fast growing tree.  A tree that size on my ranch would have at least 50 rings.  The soil here is full of clay.  I've been trying to grow Pecan trees for about 10 years but they just cant get past the clay layer.