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Questions regarding skip chain

Started by Woodcutter_Mo, September 03, 2017, 11:30:12 AM

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Woodcutter_Mo

 I just put a full skip chain on my 372xp/24" bar. This is my first skip chain, I've always ran a full comp on my saws but I thought I'd give the skip a try for the sole purpose of being quicker to sharpen.
So far out of the box, I do notice a slightly slower cut on smaller wood (which is to be expected from what I've read) and it cuts fine in the larger stuff but almost feels as though the rakers could be taken down a little.

When sharpening a full skip, do you use the same raker clearance as a typical full comp? Just curious as to what others recommend for skip chain sharpening to get the best cut out of it.

I normally use the smaller saws for limbing and save the 372 for larger stuff but do limb with it some if it will save me a walk back to the truck if there aren't too many to cut.

Thanks
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

HolmenTree

I have used full skip chain on my 36" Alaskan mill and general cutting on a 395XP-32". Found it worked good.
But on 24" and shorter bars for my go to saws I found it cut rough and had to file it more often. It didn't hold a good edge like a standard full compliment chain does.
Basically a dedicated  oversized softwood chain from the PNW  passed down to others. :laugh:
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Woodcutter_Mo

Quote from: HolmenTree on September 04, 2017, 07:55:36 AM
I have used full skip chain on my 36" Alaskan mill and general cutting on a 395XP-32". Found it worked good.
But on 24" and shorter bars for my go to saws I found it cut rough and had to file it more often. It didn't hold a good edge like a standard full compliment chain does.
Basically a dedicated  oversized softwood chain from the PNW  passed down to others. :laugh:

Ok, my main goal in mind was quicker sharpening but if sharpening has to be done more frequent, it probably won't pan out as an advantage then. 
Sounds like I may be better off saving this chain for the rare decent diameter pine or cedar I may run into or for noodling big oak rounds that don't want to split. Thanks for the insight  :)
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

Al_Smith

Well it makes sense if you only have half the cutters you need to sharpen twice as often .
On my large saws ,two 125 McCullochs,one Homelite 2100 S and one Stihl 084 I never found much difference if any from running full comp or skip .Those were from 36" to 48" bars .On the 80 cc saws using 32" bars I did slightly .
I will say this on a 42" or 48" loop of chain it takes about a beer and half to file .Only one on a 36"

luvmexfood

Quote from: Al_Smith on September 04, 2017, 04:10:37 PM
Well it makes sense if you only have half the cutters you need to sharpen twice as often .
On my large saws ,two 125 McCullochs,one Homelite 2100 S and one Stihl 084 I never found much difference if any from running full comp or skip .Those were from 36" to 48" bars .On the 80 cc saws using 32" bars I did slightly .
I will say this on a 42" or 48" loop of chain it takes about a beer and half to file .Only one on a 36"
Reminds me of this guy I used to work with. Drank beer like water. Had a hugh yard and said it was a six pack to weed eat it.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

Al_Smith

What beer? It's good for you .Has a high concentration of vitamin P .Besides that do you know what fish do in water ? You don't want to know,nasty business . :D

leeroyjd

Might want to try a loop of semi skip, smoother than full skip and I cannot tell a difference in speed with full comp.

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